driftbible

never drivin long distance on my car usally aroudn the block no biggy went on a big road that was 50mph and its liek 5miles long and i got to my friends house when the car over heated and shut off on me.....? luckly i was heading there to change my raditor...hmm.. let it cool for couple hours cracked up ok (i was scared that when it cut off it was loss of compression) but put the new one in and when doing so noticed the pipes that the lower and upper hoses go to were dry,,,,,and the old rad. was cloged and had like rust water in it

driftbible

i just got the car couple months ago so....wtf but if the engine runs dry liek that would it have messed up the water pump???becuase i was thinking maybe it was not running fluid because thats gone bad

d0 Luck

get a new aftermarket radiator and see how that goes. water pumps hold on pretty strong for rotaries. my SE has 138k and still no signs of a weak water pump

LongDuck

Your cooling system is critical in a rotary engine because of the high exhaust gas temperatures which tend to heat up the block on the compression and expansion side. If your engine 'shut down' due to overheat, I think you're going to find problems with it - either now or later.

Usually, when a rotary shuts down due to overheat, it's due to loss of compression from seal failure (burning up). You may have a very hard time getting this engine to start up once again, but either way, you're going to need to figure out what the problem is with your cooling system.

First off, it's not unusual to find some 'rusty water' in with the coolant (50/50 antifreeze/water - for Aluminum engine blocks). This is usually an overlooked part of the vehicle maintenance and many people don't drain and refill adequately, much less check their overflow bottle from time to time. If you've drained the radiator already, run a hose down the fuel pump OUTlet (top side) and remove the 1x14mm bolt on the center housing below the spark plugs - this will drain the block completely and let it run until you see clear water coming from this center drain. You can alternately hook up the garden hose to your heater inlet side on the back of the engine block just under the oil filter pedestal.

Once you have this cleaned out of all the deposits, replace the drains and close the system up so that you can refill the radiator core. Use a good mix of 50/50 as mentioned, and then be prepared to add more as you start the engine up. It will draw coolant into the block, displacing it from the rad core. Once the system is full up with coolant, replace the radiator cap and fill your overflow bottle to the top - this will leak a bit once it gets warmed up, but will ensure that you don't have any air in the overflow line that will prevent the siphon effect from drawing in coolant on cool-down.

Have a look at that, first - and if it's still overheating, we can go into more detail on other things to check. HTH,

driftbible

i just installed the new raidtor but need to go buy fluid and tomrow let me try the draingin like you said im kinda confused on that one though

driftbible

my car started up ok after i sat on the side of the road for a couple of min. and then started fine when pulling in the garage to install raditor BUT MY DASH AND ALL INTEROIR WOULD NOT BECAUSE WHEN IT OVER HEATED the over flow tank lid blow off and sprayed fluid over everything in the morning im gunna check my fuse box and see if it poped but i iwll get back on this