1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

engine help...coolant seal and oil seal bad?

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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 03:48 PM
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From: akron ohio
engine help...coolant seal and oil seal bad?

i think my coolant seal is bad when i get into higher rpms like 6000 or over 45 mph my car shoots out white smoke non stop till i slow down. also my car burns crazy amounts of oil in that process.Also oil is leaking out the side of my front houseing on the left side.... could that be a oil seal or? but if this needs a rebuild should i just part the engine and buy a engine to swap or rebuild as i am short on money and from what ive read it cost about 1300 to rebuild? sorry i am a noob at this and dont know what to do at all any help would be apreaciated pleasee!!! oh also i can drive at low speeds perfect just slowly leaks oil,

thank you shane!
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 04:57 PM
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If you can find a 12A, it would be cheaper. The only issue is find a good one. Without testing the engine yourself, its always a crap shoot.

Rebuilding one on the other hand is not cheap. Once you buy ther rebuild kit you keep your fingers crossed that the rotor housings in the rebuild engine are good. The last engine I had rebuilt cost me $1500 just in labor. Total cost using brand new rotor housing cost over $5000.
You can do it cheaper if you know how to rebuild one yourself.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 05:58 PM
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Yaa man its going to be to.costly so I'm just going to part the.engine.out or sell as whole.cause its still I'm good condition .... then withbthat money and.some saved. By a used 12a and take the.risk ...
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 07:15 PM
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My 2 cents....obviously your motor needs to be rebuilt. You didn't mention mileage, but if less than 200,000 miles, you may be able to rebuild with the housings you have. You would have to take the engine out and disassemble it to know for sure. Rebuilding a 12A is not going to be cheap though, even if the housings are fine, you may need rotors and other parts. There are lots of options though, you can put in a newer 13b if you find one. Start looking now. If you find an engine, SAIA does a pretty good job of shipping engines, around $200. Good luck.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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From: akron ohio
well its only 90k miles which is so wierd... ehh it sucks man... plus its an auto never ran hard lol but hmmm i might do a 13b swap whatever i can find realy i think after i try and sell this 12a ill start looking i dont have much time as its my dd and winter is comeing... hmm im check that out then 200 is cheap but thanks man.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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i have one question atkins rotary sells a kit for 300 and if im correct the seals it doesnt come with is for the rotar couldnt i just buy that kit then buy used good rotars ?
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 10:25 PM
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From: KC
Originally Posted by sbeers
i have one question atkins rotary sells a kit for 300 and if im correct the seals it doesnt come with is for the rotar couldnt i just buy that kit then buy used good rotars ?
You could be lucky and buy good used rotors, but the rotors are usually good. It's the rotor oil seals, rotor bearings, apex seals, and springs that wear. If your going to rebuild an engine, you can reuse your apex seal if they are within specs(they cost ~$250 to $300). Don't skimp on the rotors bearings and oil seals though.

If you decide to rebuild, before buying anything, tear the engine apart first. Depending on what you find, you may decide to buy a used engine. At the very least you educate yoursrlf and can make a better decision on which direction to go.
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Old Dec 1, 2012 | 10:42 PM
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Ahhh so wait if I buy nice used rotors will I need the oil ring and bearing then? Sorr I'm new to this...


Yeah I ned.get a cheery picker here soon see how every thing looks...I'm just so undecided just dont wanna buy a bad engine is all realy.... why I figured get this kit for 300 use old. Rotor and posibly port. For about 500 total?
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sbeers
Ahhh so wait if I buy nice used rotors will I need the oil ring and bearing then? Sorr I'm new to this...


Yeah I ned.get a cheery picker here soon see how every thing looks...I'm just so undecided just dont wanna buy a bad engine is all realy.... why I figured get this kit for 300 use old. Rotor and posibly port. For about 500 total?
500 seems very optimistic..

You said it yourself..your a noob like many of us..so why spend what little funds you have trying to rebuild an engine on the cheap..only to have it blow up pulling out the driveway..

Be willing to save for all the parts necessary for a proper rebuild, or don't waste the time and money.

P.S. Tried Alumaseal??
Has worked wonders for others
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Alumaseal works great, but only if it is coolant going out the exhaust.

Sounds to me like your oil control rings are shot. My last motor had that problem, left a smoke screen that literally shut down a freeway. I drained out a couple quarts of oil and replaced it with Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer. Got another 30 thousand miles out of that motor with nary an issue until it coughed up an apex seal at 213,000 miles.

I run that stuff still. In my 7, my Bimmer, and my Audi. It's magic, I tell you.



.
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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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From: akron ohio
Does the oil stabalizer prevent the. Oil ring problem? I can barly go over 50... and hmm I'm try That. Sealant on yhe front. Houseing mabye yhat leaks.... it suks onlyv90 k and.acting up... I'm rely not sure at this moment what it realy is just smokes hella bad at high speeds
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