Ok, here's the deal. The other day my engine started sputtering while driving down the road. It felt like I had about half the horsepower and I didn't have hardly any throttle response. I limped home and pulled the plugs. The leading and trailing plugs from the front rotor were fine. The Trailing plug from rear rotor was fine as well. The problem lies with the Leading plug in rotor #2. It was full of oil and looked black and "killed". I replaced it and the rest of the plugs and started the engine for about 3 minutes. After about 1 min. no more blue smoke from the tailpipe but still very rough idol. After the 3 min. were up and the idol still not at all what it should be, I checked the two leading plugs to compare them. Rotor plug #1 was fine, rotor #2 had some oil on it......Conclusion: A blown apex seal. Am I correct in my assumption? If so, I need to rebuild the engine...which I am not affraid to do. I have a 13b with EFI in my '85 GSL-SE. Now, I have heard some horror stories from some guys around here about carbing the engine...with all the tweaking and tuning they need to do. I want to know if I can get as much horsepower, when I rebuild, with the efi unit as I would with the carb, as well as get your opinion about which is easier to install a turbo with. I know this is a long thread, but it will let me get a good start on my project car. I will check the other threads on this page concerning the particular questions I have asked you as well. Thank you all in advance for your help and educated answers.

Justin

 

yuh blown seal
there is a good rebiuld shop near you IIRC
someone to talk to in person helps with probs alot IHMO

 

What is the name of the rebuild shop? Is it IIRC?...
Thanks for the response bud.

 

IIRC= If I Remeber correctly

im trying to remneber
its rotrary rebiulding or something

 

What state?, Town, I can look it up from there I think. Hey...what's your opinion on what type of porting I should use if I want to turbo my 7 and run it mostly as a fast as shi% car on the road?

 

A blown apex seal would lead to bad idle as you mentioned, but not to the oil soaked plugs on the rear rotor as mentioned. My guess is that the oil seals are gone. This would let excess oil into the rotor housing causing the air/fuel mixture to get diluted with oil and cause oil soaked plugs and a rough idle. Either way it needs a rebuild.

For more power, I would suggest porting your engine. This is pretty much the most effective way to increase HP on your car without going to forced induction.

 

I'd go with a large streetport on the intake, and a huge exhaust port.

 

i think they are in knoxville tn

 

Damn slow typing fingers!!!!

Coldy knows best. Weren't you the first one to make a custom turbo setup for a 12A?

I would also suggest using the turbo from a TII.

 

If you find the name of the good rebuilder in Knoxville, please tell us. I might think about getting my 12a done there if they are a good rotary shop.

 

Are you thinking of Rotary Resurection? I'm pretty sure they are in Morristown.

 

Yeah it's rotary resurrection. The name of the guy is Kevin Landers and supposedly he's pretty good and offers very fair prices. Check out the website, http://www.rotaryresurrection.com, it should answer all your questions.

 

thx

 

I wish I had the money for a rebuild. If my engine went out or had any major problems, I would be done with this car. I would have to park it. I just don't have the money for a rebuilt or even used engine right now. Consider yourself lucky.

 

same here, but with a blown engine already

 

Again, guys...thank you for your help and knowledgable input.

 

I was looking at a couple of FCs that had blown engines and was thinking of picking one up (one guy is trying to get rid of a GTU with a good body and interior for ~$500) and then rebuilding it for a fun little side project. I was going to snag the basic rebuild kit and the bideo they sell at www.rotaryaviation.com, but was wondering how hard it is to do a basic street port at the same time. Are there any guides that show how to do it?

 

go to www.mazdatrix.com, they have templates i believe www.atkinsrotary.com does too, but you can also take the engine toa rotary repair shop and pay them to do it for you, knid of a waste of money in my book, but too each his own

 

Nah, there were quite a few before me. Most of my first setup(blowthru nikki, no IC) came from RotaryShack. This new setup has lots of my own custom parts though.


I think it's easier to do a turbo setup using a carb. You'll get a bit more HP and streetability with EFI, but it'll also cost a lot more.

 

From what I've seen of the porting it didn't look too complex to me. You're just making the intake ports larger without digging into the coolant seal area, right? Atkins didn't have a template from what I could find, but here's the page on porting I found on Mazdatrix:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/porting.htm

It looks like 6 port engines really can't gain much by porting though, and all the NA FCs are 6 port, right? (I don't really plan on a TII).

 

If you turbo with a carb instead of EFI, you don't have to play with an ECU to get the proper fuel delivery, since the carb will automatically compensate, right?