I have assembled the block, and now am checking all the endplay. I found that my spacer seems to be too short, since there is no endplay whatsoever. I also lapped the housings when I rebuilt so that might have some bearing on why the old spacer doesn't work.
So, does anyone know where I can get a different spacer or something that will work sufficiently?

Also, there is a weird marking on the spacer. I think it might be how thick the spacer is. Mine has a Y on it.
You can see Godzilla holding it
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...egrove/002.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...ve/003-1-1.jpg

 

if you look in the shop manual the spacers are lettered by thickness.

mazda sells spacers in different thicknesses, or you could sand it down.

its not a wear part so it should be easy to find used, ive got a bunch

 

You will need a THICKER spacer, Page 31 in the FSM has spacer thickness'

Y = 8.04 so ypu will need an K or X spacer, if they are not thick enough the FC has two or three more sizes.

 

Yep.. it seems backwards, but Kim is correct. You can get them from Mazdatrix, Mazda, used, etc.

Also, look at this to make sure you didn't drop/crush a bearing in the front stack:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

A trick to remember is to do the step in the FSM that measures the pulley boss protrusion from the e-shaft. It's in the FD manual for sure, others I don't know.

Basically that procedure tells you whether or not the bearing has slipped or not before you tighten the shaft bolt.

Also, whenever I've put engines together I've applied generous amounts of lubriplate assembly lube to those thrust bearings, which keeps them in place.

 

I usually just seat the spacer at initial assembly, from there you can see if it's not fully in, It's pretty evident caus' it's like 2mm or so.
Then if the torrington bearing is dislocated during endplay setting, I just poke it with an old seal or spring, the massive amounts of ***.lube usually holds it up untill the spacer is in place

If in doubt measure.