qtrracer

The car is an ’80 SA 5 speed; motor, ignition, intake and exhaust and are absolutely stock with disconnected air conditioning compressor; all smog attached and working. The issue is an electrical problem – no power to the dash, starter, gauges, lights, etc. Car was running when it went into the garage 6 months ago for a rear-end swap to disc brakes. Went to start it up last Friday and nothing. Battery is charged and works on another car. Traced the problem to this what I call a “power distribution” block mounted on the strut tower that has a hot going in straight from the battery, three fusible links coming out of one side and three lines coming out the other – the center one is labeled “main.” I believe Haynes annotates this box as “X-7” in their harness diagrams. Anyway, I’ve got 12.5v at the following: going into the box, through it (tested on the links male leads), through the fusible links (disconnected one end) and as far as I can tell back out. Now two of the three out-bound connections (outside two) also give me 12.5v. However, the center “main” with a W/R wire will give me 1.0v max – usually something less. I’ve tried different approaches – using a probe, wiggling everything and switching the links – thinking I simply have a bad connection; still the same. Now I’m thinking something fried inside. Since it looks only to function as a distribution block, I thought I’d try a jumper bypassing the box – but I’m a bit hesitant. One odd thing; the retractable light motors worked from the dash switch for up only, but while playing with the box, they went back down. Anybody have any ideas? I’m not even certain what this box is called should I need to replace it. Thanks in advance.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Clean (wire brush, file or scrape with a knife) the terminals on the fusible link and the box. I'd remove the hot lead from the battery to the box and clean those terminals as well.

qtrracer

OK - I'll try that. Any concern jumping the connection should cleaning not work? What is this box called besides "expensive" LOL?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

I think your right that the middle connection supplies power to the car from the battery. If you want to "wire around" it and are concerned about protecting the car, maybe buy a 30 amp (I believe that is the amperage the middle link is rated at - BE SURE!) fuse and in-line fuse holder, and wire that into your "jump" wire? That way you are protecting everything during your attempt...? Obviously the "jump" wire should be the same gauge as the other wire.
I am no electrical wizard, so please - step in if anyone sees a problem with this or has other ideas....!
That fusible link box must be sitting in a LOT of dead SA's around so getting a replacement shouldn't be too difficult.
Let us know what you find and how you solve this!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

Kentetsu

Most likely the center fusible link is bad. That is the one that controls 90% of the power. I have replaced my links with inline fuses (short piece of wire, female ends, fuse holder in the middle) and it has worked great. Original fusible links can be tough to find sometimes, not to mention expensive.