i'm having a hell of a time removing the bolt holding the eccentric shaft pulley on. its the 19mm bolt right in the center of the e-shaft. i'm afraid to heat it as i dont want to damage the e-shaft. that sucker is in there VERY tight. i've tried my electric impact(snap on 240ft/lbs reverse) and it wont budge. i've tried a breaker bar with a 19mm and a cheater pipe and it wont budge. i need this front cover off. any suggestions?

 

You may be able to get it loose by putting your breaker bar and socket on and push the bar down against the drivers side frame rail (put a rag under it) then crank the motor over with the key, just bump it after disabling the distributor , you don`t want the car to start. If all else fails you may need to heat it up to break it free from the factory "locktite". Try it with the starter first if you can.
One more thing, there is a bearing on the front of the shaft that will slip out of place. If this happens you will destroy the bearing in short order.
If you are tearing the engine down its not a big deal but if not you must be VERY careful. You can have someone sit in the car with their foot depressing the clutch the ENTIRE time you have the bolt out this is not a for sure safe way but I have done it on my 86 NA with no problem so I could change the thermal pellet.

 

ive had the same problem with a motor out of the car. i used my cheater bar and put all my weight (about 260lbs) on the end and then some by bouncing up and down, and i broke my socket. the thing didnt even move. any suggestions?

 

Heat and a new socket!

 

Wedge a breaker bar (with a piece of pipe for extension) on the frame and crank the motor. That will loosen any stubborn e-shaft bolt. Never failed me yet.

 

unfortunatly the engine is out of the car and stripped to the bare block... i've got a flywheel stopper holding the flywheel so the e-shaft doesnt spin. i'm replacing the front cover gasket and removing a bolt that lost its head. i'm wanting to put this engine in my 85 S. i'm almost ready to get another engine at this point.

 

Lock the flywheel in the back when some kind of a tool, and just like you have been put the 19mm socket on it, with a pry bar and break the lock tight off!!! Thats the only thin you can do. lots of elbow grease

 

that bolt has red loc tight, your suppose to heat it.

 

lock your flywheel and give it hell. ive normally removed them by hand.

 

I've gotten two stubborn 19mm bolts off after exhausting all other possibilities by drilling around the outside of the hex with a 1" hole saw. The drill bit was already broken inside so it fit nicely over the bolt head. The object here was to weaken the lip through the reduction of metal without drilling all the way through it and possibly damaging the pulley hub and/or shaft. Man I got lucky both times and it worked out in the end.

By the way, both engines were built by local rotary shops, and both contained mistakes/errors during the build. I won't name names at this point.

 

well, i guess i'll try and heat it. i'm not going to drill into anything, as i dont have a good enough set of metal bits. i've broken them and have been too lazy to replace my broken bits. i'll have to just put a BIG pipe on the end of a 1/2" breaker bar and give it hell. are there any cautions when the bolt and front cover are removed such as the bearing falling or sinking?

 

hold the torch on it till you see bubblies oozing out, thats the hardcore loctight melting.

 

lock the flywheel have a buddy sit on the engine and push untill you fart
really make sure your the one with the most wieght and muscle.

 

You need to make sure the flywheel is down when removing this pully and nut otherwise your bushing will shift on you. The flywheel should be facing down to the ground.

 

even if i just crack the bolt loose and then turn the engine on the flywheel to remove the bolt?

 

read up buddy http://mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

Although I'm usually in the 2nd gen section, bear with me.

Like 2713ddddavid said, be very careful about keeping the clutch depressed, or you may destroy the thrust bearings behind the front stack... if the one falls and you tighten back down that main bolt, you will destroy a lot of **** in the front of the motor.

What I did was put a socket between the counterweight (s5 TII engine... but same principle...) and one of the tension bolt heads, and get it tight a bit. Then I heated up the main bolt for about 30 seconds, and went at it with my impact gun. My impact throws at around 800 ft/lbs reverse torque though, so that may have had something to do with it. Either way, use the heat accompanied with the air tools, buddy. No need to kill yourself over it.

Good luck,
James

 

i just removed mine put a screw drive through one of te holes on the housing next to flywheel and then prop a bigger flat head on it in one of the teeth teen get someone to run an impact on the bolt an walla make sure you just losen it first and the set the motor on its rear end and then take off supposablly you will crush the trust bearing or something good luck

 

Use plenty of heat to break it loose. Engine can be in any position that works for this. If you're tearing the engine down, don't worry about the torrington bearings. If you are not tearing it down, place the engine on the flywheel once the bolt is broke loose. You will not hurt the e-shaft with heat.

Before I learned the heat trick, I had one engine I took to a friend at the Ford dealership, took a 3/4" impact to break the bolt loose. Not worth the time and trouble for that. A hand held propane torch will do the trick.

 

all lock-tite is is plastic. a little propane heat and you're good to go. also that sad electric impact you've got, a buddy at work owns an electric snap-on also and he blew the housing up on lugnuts! it went kachung, and nothing. HA!

 

^1 on the heat. I had the exact problem. Just torch it for 5 mins or so, try to break it loose, then try another 5 mins. Eventually it will come off. I used a 1/2'' drive and a breaker bar while heating with a small handheld torch.
Patience and Heat!