Ebay aluminum rads...
Ebay aluminum rads...
It's ebay... I know. But the pic actually makes it look pretty solid and the one that's on my car is leaking... And if it leaks I can get someone to weld it for free. Other than it being a bit short, is there any reason this wouldn't bolt into an 84-85 as well?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/79-83-ALL-MAZDA-R...item27b80164f8
http://cgi.ebay.ca/79-83-ALL-MAZDA-R...item27b80164f8
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 715
Likes: 0
From: Holland, Michigan/ Afganistan/ Iraq/ Itatly
sure is, the stock radiator on the rx7 has plenty of cooling capacity.
Replace with stock unless your doing high speed endurance racing or driving at 9000 rpm for 5 hours straight.
www.rockauto.com 150$ or so.
That ebay item i dont trust
1. they are not responsible for anything (if they welded bad they say its not there fault)
2. No information on cooling 25-30% less then stock (were are the numbers and test sheets from there R&D?)
3. PROFESSIONAL installation is highly recommended. Buyer assumes all risk on usage (if they left slag in the radiator and it jams your water pump and your engine blows even if you can prove it was slag from the radiator they made, your **** out of luck.
Replace with stock unless your doing high speed endurance racing or driving at 9000 rpm for 5 hours straight.
www.rockauto.com 150$ or so.
That ebay item i dont trust
1. they are not responsible for anything (if they welded bad they say its not there fault)
2. No information on cooling 25-30% less then stock (were are the numbers and test sheets from there R&D?)
3. PROFESSIONAL installation is highly recommended. Buyer assumes all risk on usage (if they left slag in the radiator and it jams your water pump and your engine blows even if you can prove it was slag from the radiator they made, your **** out of luck.
When I moved to vegas, I was lots of having over heating problems. The main road around where I live is a slight uphill grade, with lots of traffic and stoplights. Add 120 degree temps, and I could only drive for 10 min before it got too hot. I picked up an ebay aluminum, replaced coolant with distilled water and water wetter, and Ive been good ever since.
Note, that on the one I bought, the stock clutch fan would not work. The rad is too thick.
Note, that on the one I bought, the stock clutch fan would not work. The rad is too thick.
I'm using an ebay rad and intercooler on my turbo build. I'd recommend flushing it out well before installing. But other than that it should be fine. The biggest issue I've found with ebay radiators is fitment.... luckily these don't have pre-drilled holes, so should be good to go. I put one in my kid brothers FC and it was a HUGE pain in the ***.... but works great, even in our FL summer heat.
It's ebay... I know. But the pic actually makes it look pretty solid and the one that's on my car is leaking... And if it leaks I can get someone to weld it for free. Other than it being a bit short, is there any reason this wouldn't bolt into an 84-85 as well?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/79-83-ALL-MAZDA-R...item27b80164f8
http://cgi.ebay.ca/79-83-ALL-MAZDA-R...item27b80164f8
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Got my eye on this one for my GLC....hope it is worth the money. It was the only one I could find with the extended filler neck so I could mount under the rad support for extrs clearance.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3465wt_1208
I'm pretty sure that there is only 1 style of rad that everyone is selling... all at different prices. On ebay, there is autopwr, cxracing, and some no name ones.. but when you look at the exploded pictures, they are all the exact same thing, same pictures from the same angles, but like I said all at a different price. I saw rotary-works released a radiator for the 1st gen, but more expensive than anyone on ebay. When I went to their site, sure enough, same pictures as on ebay, same exact radiator..
Cheap ebay...$125
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-83...Q5fAccessories
Cx racing ebay.. $200
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRac...Q5fAccessories
Rotary-works.. $290
http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=RADI
I think these vendors are ordering the same rad at wholesale prices, and depending on what company they can jack the price, however the quality looks the same.. same description, same exact 'product gallery'.
I've heard that a koyo rad for an fc only requires a little cutting of sheet metal to install straight up and down in an fb, and it'd probably be a better bet going with a reputable company instead of buying a no name wholesale rad.
Cheap ebay...$125
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-83...Q5fAccessories
Cx racing ebay.. $200
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRac...Q5fAccessories
Rotary-works.. $290
http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=RADI
I think these vendors are ordering the same rad at wholesale prices, and depending on what company they can jack the price, however the quality looks the same.. same description, same exact 'product gallery'.
I've heard that a koyo rad for an fc only requires a little cutting of sheet metal to install straight up and down in an fb, and it'd probably be a better bet going with a reputable company instead of buying a no name wholesale rad.
Got my eye on this one for my GLC....hope it is worth the money. It was the only one I could find with the extended filler neck so I could mount under the rad support for extrs clearance.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3465wt_1208
Has anyone found one that has the openings for the low coolant sensor and the other sensor (not sure what it is) that is on the driver side bottom of the rad? I put a front mount oil cooler in my GSL 12A car and the rad is too tall and hits the oil lines.
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,301
Likes: 3
From: District of Columbia
I've said this a thousand times and people will argue with me but here it goes. Copper disapates heat better than aluminum. If you replace your good working stock copper rad with an aluminum one of the exact same size you will see a decrease in cooling ability. The reason to use aluminum is if you can't afford a bigger copper one, or you're really concerned about weight and you can use a bigger radiator with out the cost of the added weight. So if you must go MadJayDeeEmm tyyiight with an aluminum radiator it must be much larger than stock to be benificial.
I run a stock FC aluminum radiator (Way bigger than stock size)in my FB and it performes no better than the stock FB copper rad. Both never let me get over 190* in 110* heat.
I run a stock FC aluminum radiator (Way bigger than stock size)in my FB and it performes no better than the stock FB copper rad. Both never let me get over 190* in 110* heat.
I've said this a thousand times and people will argue with me but here it goes. Copper disapates heat better than aluminum. If you replace your good working stock copper rad with an aluminum one of the exact same size you will see a decrease in cooling ability. The reason to use aluminum is if you can't afford a bigger copper one, or you're really concerned about weight and you can use a bigger radiator with out the cost of the added weight. So if you must go MadJayDeeEmm tyyiight with an aluminum radiator it must be much larger than stock to be benificial.
I run a stock FC aluminum radiator (Way bigger than stock size)in my FB and it performes no better than the stock FB copper rad. Both never let me get over 190* in 110* heat.
I run a stock FC aluminum radiator (Way bigger than stock size)in my FB and it performes no better than the stock FB copper rad. Both never let me get over 190* in 110* heat.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-...item255d4d6c8d
The obvious advantage of an aluminum radiator versus a copper/brass version has a lot to do with weight savings, but there are actual cooling benefits as well. Even though traditional brass and copper materials are better conductors than aluminum, the extra strength of the aluminum allows for larger tubes with more surface area. Even an aluminum radiator with fewer tubes than its traditional counterpart can potentially offer improved cooling, as the larger tubes make more efficient use of available core space.
Aluminum is much stronger, allowing the use of considerably wider tubes. Wider tubes allow more direct contact between the fins and the tube, increasing the radiator's capacity to dissipate heat away from the engine.
An aluminum radiator built with 1" wide tubes with a .016" tube wall turned out to be approximately 60% lighter than the same copper brass radiator. The 1" tube increased direct tube-to-fin contact and cooling capacity by roughly 25%. Therefore, a 2 row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes is equivalent to a 5 row copper brass radiator with 1/2" tubes.
Today all vehicle manufacturers incorporate aluminum radiators with wide tubes in their designs. GM, for instance, offers an aluminum radiator with 1-1/4" tubes. Mercedes Benz uses 1-1/2" tubes.
Copper is a good heat conductor, but solder required to bond the tubes to fin creates an insulation point that prevents some heat transfer. Aluminum tubes are welded rather than soldered to the aluminum tanks, providing a more efficient conductor for cooling efficiency.
Most aluminum radiators are manufactured with plastic tanks. To take it one step further, some are manufactured with aluminum tanks. The advantage of the aluminum tanks over plastic is the obvious added strength and the elimination of the insulating epoxies between the core and tank as well as the added heat dissipation properties of the aluminum tanks themselves.
In conclusion, an all aluminum radiator will have an overall efficiency rating 20-30% higher than the traditional copper/brass version with the same core thickness, regardless of the number of rows. Some of the increase in efficiency is directly attributable to the use of aluminum tanks in place of the plastic tanks in the majority of modern radiators.
Aluminum is much stronger, allowing the use of considerably wider tubes. Wider tubes allow more direct contact between the fins and the tube, increasing the radiator's capacity to dissipate heat away from the engine.
An aluminum radiator built with 1" wide tubes with a .016" tube wall turned out to be approximately 60% lighter than the same copper brass radiator. The 1" tube increased direct tube-to-fin contact and cooling capacity by roughly 25%. Therefore, a 2 row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes is equivalent to a 5 row copper brass radiator with 1/2" tubes.
Today all vehicle manufacturers incorporate aluminum radiators with wide tubes in their designs. GM, for instance, offers an aluminum radiator with 1-1/4" tubes. Mercedes Benz uses 1-1/2" tubes.
Copper is a good heat conductor, but solder required to bond the tubes to fin creates an insulation point that prevents some heat transfer. Aluminum tubes are welded rather than soldered to the aluminum tanks, providing a more efficient conductor for cooling efficiency.
Most aluminum radiators are manufactured with plastic tanks. To take it one step further, some are manufactured with aluminum tanks. The advantage of the aluminum tanks over plastic is the obvious added strength and the elimination of the insulating epoxies between the core and tank as well as the added heat dissipation properties of the aluminum tanks themselves.
In conclusion, an all aluminum radiator will have an overall efficiency rating 20-30% higher than the traditional copper/brass version with the same core thickness, regardless of the number of rows. Some of the increase in efficiency is directly attributable to the use of aluminum tanks in place of the plastic tanks in the majority of modern radiators.
Last edited by Directfreak; Jan 23, 2011 at 12:04 PM.
They have an even nicer one - 3 ROW for less money..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-...item255d4d6c8d
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-...item255d4d6c8d
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