1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Ebay aluminum rads...

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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:13 AM
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Ebay aluminum rads...

It's ebay... I know. But the pic actually makes it look pretty solid and the one that's on my car is leaking... And if it leaks I can get someone to weld it for free. Other than it being a bit short, is there any reason this wouldn't bolt into an 84-85 as well?


http://cgi.ebay.ca/79-83-ALL-MAZDA-R...item27b80164f8
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 07:32 AM
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sure is, the stock radiator on the rx7 has plenty of cooling capacity.
Replace with stock unless your doing high speed endurance racing or driving at 9000 rpm for 5 hours straight.

www.rockauto.com 150$ or so.


That ebay item i dont trust
1. they are not responsible for anything (if they welded bad they say its not there fault)
2. No information on cooling 25-30% less then stock (were are the numbers and test sheets from there R&D?)
3. PROFESSIONAL installation is highly recommended. Buyer assumes all risk on usage (if they left slag in the radiator and it jams your water pump and your engine blows even if you can prove it was slag from the radiator they made, your **** out of luck.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 09:26 AM
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When I moved to vegas, I was lots of having over heating problems. The main road around where I live is a slight uphill grade, with lots of traffic and stoplights. Add 120 degree temps, and I could only drive for 10 min before it got too hot. I picked up an ebay aluminum, replaced coolant with distilled water and water wetter, and Ive been good ever since.

Note, that on the one I bought, the stock clutch fan would not work. The rad is too thick.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:20 AM
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I'm using an ebay rad and intercooler on my turbo build. I'd recommend flushing it out well before installing. But other than that it should be fine. The biggest issue I've found with ebay radiators is fitment.... luckily these don't have pre-drilled holes, so should be good to go. I put one in my kid brothers FC and it was a HUGE pain in the ***.... but works great, even in our FL summer heat.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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From: KC
Originally Posted by rotaryboy23
It's ebay... I know. But the pic actually makes it look pretty solid and the one that's on my car is leaking... And if it leaks I can get someone to weld it for free. Other than it being a bit short, is there any reason this wouldn't bolt into an 84-85 as well?


http://cgi.ebay.ca/79-83-ALL-MAZDA-R...item27b80164f8
I saw these on eBay also and noticed they they did not have the upper and lower senors mounting holes. I sent them a quetion and they never responed. Before I buy from a company like this I like to check out their customer service. Since they did not respond, they have no customer service.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 12:33 PM
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I use an e-bay rad on my race car. Haven't had any issues yet. 90deg weather and full out track time and never went above 180 on my temp gauge.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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Ebay rads and intercoolers tend to be of reasonable quality. I'm thinking of picking up one of those exact units.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 12:54 PM
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well I am glad I am not the only that was considering the ebay rads,

Tanjo how long did you run it in Vegas??
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Im running a similar one. I love it, I had to convert over to a E-fan ( the rad was a bit too thick) I've had since May 09 no issues.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 02:01 PM
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i have one on my car aswell, only thing i had to do was drill holes for mounting it, other then that i've had it on my car DDin it for about 8 months now, no problems
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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Got my eye on this one for my GLC....hope it is worth the money. It was the only one I could find with the extended filler neck so I could mount under the rad support for extrs clearance.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3465wt_1208
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 11:09 PM
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I'd be interested if they had these in a dual pass configuration.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 01:21 PM
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I'm pretty sure that there is only 1 style of rad that everyone is selling... all at different prices. On ebay, there is autopwr, cxracing, and some no name ones.. but when you look at the exploded pictures, they are all the exact same thing, same pictures from the same angles, but like I said all at a different price. I saw rotary-works released a radiator for the 1st gen, but more expensive than anyone on ebay. When I went to their site, sure enough, same pictures as on ebay, same exact radiator..

Cheap ebay...$125

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-83...Q5fAccessories

Cx racing ebay.. $200

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRac...Q5fAccessories

Rotary-works.. $290

http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=RADI

I think these vendors are ordering the same rad at wholesale prices, and depending on what company they can jack the price, however the quality looks the same.. same description, same exact 'product gallery'.

I've heard that a koyo rad for an fc only requires a little cutting of sheet metal to install straight up and down in an fb, and it'd probably be a better bet going with a reputable company instead of buying a no name wholesale rad.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cfamilyfix
Got my eye on this one for my GLC....hope it is worth the money. It was the only one I could find with the extended filler neck so I could mount under the rad support for extrs clearance.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3465wt_1208
This one is totally different from the one I ranted about, and actually looks pretty good. I am just confused as to the one I posted about.. 10 different vendors, 10 different prices, and the exact same thing haha
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 04:43 PM
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How much do these weigh compared to a stock radiator?? I am always looking for lighter parts for my autocross car!!
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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Also... this radiator is for non-beehive oil cooler models.... at least it looks like it is non- beehive.

Wonder if they make a radiator that is for beehive??
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 05:06 PM
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Has anyone found one that has the openings for the low coolant sensor and the other sensor (not sure what it is) that is on the driver side bottom of the rad? I put a front mount oil cooler in my GSL 12A car and the rad is too tall and hits the oil lines.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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I've said this a thousand times and people will argue with me but here it goes. Copper disapates heat better than aluminum. If you replace your good working stock copper rad with an aluminum one of the exact same size you will see a decrease in cooling ability. The reason to use aluminum is if you can't afford a bigger copper one, or you're really concerned about weight and you can use a bigger radiator with out the cost of the added weight. So if you must go MadJayDeeEmm tyyiight with an aluminum radiator it must be much larger than stock to be benificial.
I run a stock FC aluminum radiator (Way bigger than stock size)in my FB and it performes no better than the stock FB copper rad. Both never let me get over 190* in 110* heat.
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
I've said this a thousand times and people will argue with me but here it goes. Copper disapates heat better than aluminum. If you replace your good working stock copper rad with an aluminum one of the exact same size you will see a decrease in cooling ability. The reason to use aluminum is if you can't afford a bigger copper one, or you're really concerned about weight and you can use a bigger radiator with out the cost of the added weight. So if you must go MadJayDeeEmm tyyiight with an aluminum radiator it must be much larger than stock to be benificial.
I run a stock FC aluminum radiator (Way bigger than stock size)in my FB and it performes no better than the stock FB copper rad. Both never let me get over 190* in 110* heat.
Good info, and very true. If the copper didn't cool well enough Mazda would've never used it in the first place.. as for the jdm tightness, I am currently achieving this with my copper radiator, as those are my initials haha
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:18 AM
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LOL! I didn't even look at your name. I was just refering to the general misinformation that everything JDM is somehow better..
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 01:49 AM
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I bought one of the ebay aluminum radiators. It was missing the heater core outlet even though they showed it in the picture on the auction. I had to have a pipe welded on.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 01:58 AM
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I would just replace it with a copper unit from Rockauto. Inexpensive and does the job without having to make it fit.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by jdmminot
This one is totally different from the one I ranted about, and actually looks pretty good. I am just confused as to the one I posted about.. 10 different vendors, 10 different prices, and the exact same thing haha
They have an even nicer one - 3 ROW for less money..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-...item255d4d6c8d
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
Copper disapates heat better than aluminum. If you replace your good working stock copper rad with an aluminum one of the exact same size you will see a decrease in cooling ability.
Yes it does, it they were IDENTICAL in size shape and surface area..

The obvious advantage of an aluminum radiator versus a copper/brass version has a lot to do with weight savings, but there are actual cooling benefits as well. Even though traditional brass and copper materials are better conductors than aluminum, the extra strength of the aluminum allows for larger tubes with more surface area. Even an aluminum radiator with fewer tubes than its traditional counterpart can potentially offer improved cooling, as the larger tubes make more efficient use of available core space.

Aluminum is much stronger, allowing the use of considerably wider tubes. Wider tubes allow more direct contact between the fins and the tube, increasing the radiator's capacity to dissipate heat away from the engine.

An aluminum radiator built with 1" wide tubes with a .016" tube wall turned out to be approximately 60% lighter than the same copper brass radiator. The 1" tube increased direct tube-to-fin contact and cooling capacity by roughly 25%. Therefore, a 2 row aluminum radiator with 1" tubes is equivalent to a 5 row copper brass radiator with 1/2" tubes.

Today all vehicle manufacturers incorporate aluminum radiators with wide tubes in their designs. GM, for instance, offers an aluminum radiator with 1-1/4" tubes. Mercedes Benz uses 1-1/2" tubes.

Copper is a good heat conductor, but solder required to bond the tubes to fin creates an insulation point that prevents some heat transfer. Aluminum tubes are welded rather than soldered to the aluminum tanks, providing a more efficient conductor for cooling efficiency.

Most aluminum radiators are manufactured with plastic tanks. To take it one step further, some are manufactured with aluminum tanks. The advantage of the aluminum tanks over plastic is the obvious added strength and the elimination of the insulating epoxies between the core and tank as well as the added heat dissipation properties of the aluminum tanks themselves.

In conclusion, an all aluminum radiator will have an overall efficiency rating 20-30% higher than the traditional copper/brass version with the same core thickness, regardless of the number of rows. Some of the increase in efficiency is directly attributable to the use of aluminum tanks in place of the plastic tanks in the majority of modern radiators.
That being said... My Stock "tall" 2 row radiator (and 3300 CFM e-Fan) have been fine under South Florida Heat, with 500+ HP.

Last edited by Directfreak; Jan 23, 2011 at 12:04 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Directfreak
They have an even nicer one - 3 ROW for less money..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-...item255d4d6c8d
Looks legit.. good thing it can cool up to 750hp..... I'll probably be pushing 100 !
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