EASY 2nd gen direct fire install - 20 minutes
08-24-04, 11:56 PM
#76
If I didn't have an MSD 6AL sitting here collecting dust, I would totally be interested in using a J-105 or J-109 to trigger my FC leading ignitor.
I'm still debating what I should do about the trailing circuit of my 12A. I've got only one FC trailing coil on its base, which was free, so I shouldn't complain, but I don't know if I should try to use the trailing ignitor or maybe install the trailing coil onto the leading coil's base and use the leading ignitor triggered by a 1st gen ignitor. Or maybe since I'm going to do a single rotor engine, I should hang on to the trailing coil and use it on the leading spark plug.
Well, since the trailing ignition circuit doesn't really do anything for the power of the engine, maybe I'll just throw a Diamond coil on the trailing circuit of my 12A and keep the FC trailing coil for use as a leading coil on the single rotor engine, with whichever ignitor is easiest to work with, and trigger it with either a J-105 or J-109.
This was supposed to be simple, but the lure of using the more powerful FC ignitors is pretty strong.
I agree that somebody ought to come up with a diagram or picture or something to better explain how to trigger FC ignitors with FB/SA ignitors.
Hmm, since you can get GM HEI ignitors for $15.99 at Autozone (Wells PR100), maybe that would be the best answer. The question remains; should they be hooked directly to the coils, or should the FC ignitors continue to be used, since we know they are electrically matched to their coils (this was supposed to be simple, you know).
Gonzz, others have said it doesn't really matter which side of the coil the ballast resistor goes on. I honestly don't know if more performance could be gained by hooking it to one side or the other.
I'm still debating what I should do about the trailing circuit of my 12A. I've got only one FC trailing coil on its base, which was free, so I shouldn't complain, but I don't know if I should try to use the trailing ignitor or maybe install the trailing coil onto the leading coil's base and use the leading ignitor triggered by a 1st gen ignitor. Or maybe since I'm going to do a single rotor engine, I should hang on to the trailing coil and use it on the leading spark plug.
Well, since the trailing ignition circuit doesn't really do anything for the power of the engine, maybe I'll just throw a Diamond coil on the trailing circuit of my 12A and keep the FC trailing coil for use as a leading coil on the single rotor engine, with whichever ignitor is easiest to work with, and trigger it with either a J-105 or J-109.
This was supposed to be simple, but the lure of using the more powerful FC ignitors is pretty strong.
I agree that somebody ought to come up with a diagram or picture or something to better explain how to trigger FC ignitors with FB/SA ignitors.
Hmm, since you can get GM HEI ignitors for $15.99 at Autozone (Wells PR100), maybe that would be the best answer. The question remains; should they be hooked directly to the coils, or should the FC ignitors continue to be used, since we know they are electrically matched to their coils (this was supposed to be simple, you know).
Gonzz, others have said it doesn't really matter which side of the coil the ballast resistor goes on. I honestly don't know if more performance could be gained by hooking it to one side or the other.
now you can help me hahaha
08-25-04, 11:29 PM
#80
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 4,236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you will see two black wires inside the 2nd gen coil. One of them goes to the - side of the coil. the other black wire gets spliced into the - side of your stock wiring. Run the + wire from your stock wiring to the + side of the 2nd gen coil.. you done.. easy once you know how to do it... Thanks for everyones help!!!! Awsome Forum!!!
08-25-04, 11:42 PM
#81
Amish Gangsta
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
some photos of my 2GCDFIS install
Notice the male spade connector from the 2g coil to the female spade on the harness and the jumper wire from the positive on the original coil to the 2g coil.
I can switch back to stock ignition if the 2g coil dies.
Hopefully these pics and the ones I posted above will help some people out.
Notice the male spade connector from the 2g coil to the female spade on the harness and the jumper wire from the positive on the original coil to the 2g coil.
I can switch back to stock ignition if the 2g coil dies.
Hopefully these pics and the ones I posted above will help some people out.
08-26-04, 01:43 PM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: SC
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
are those msd blaster 2 coils mounted in the stock locations? if so, watch out , THEY WILL BLOW UP IF MOUNTED SIDEWAYS.
you need to get the epoxied msd coils to use in the stock locations.
if those are the stock coils painted red then ignore this post.
carl.
you need to get the epoxied msd coils to use in the stock locations.
if those are the stock coils painted red then ignore this post.
carl.
09-06-04, 09:35 PM
#86
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Drifting a Roundabout near you!
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Still waiting for a cheesy wiring diagram for this mod, the wire photo's are not as clear as I would like. I just got my FC coils in the mail from Ebay, looking forward to the mod.
09-07-04, 02:17 AM
#87
If I had already done this mod, I'd know the wiring well enough to explain it. I'll do my best.
Remove the bottom cover from the leading coil assembly. Unsolder one of the wires from the ballast resistor (or cut it from the stock ignitor). Remove stock ignitor. Connect the ballast resistor in series with one of the wires from your leading ignitor on the dizzy. I don't it matters but maybe hook it to the negative side of the coil?
The B terminal of the ignitor goes to the + terminal of the coil. The C terminal of the ignitor goes to the ballast resistor. Then th eother side of the ballast resistor goes to the - terminal fo the coil.
You could simply extend the wires from the stock leading coil over to the strut tower where the 2nd gen leading coil is mounted and hook it up as I described above. The thick wire goes to coil + and the thinner wire goes through the ballast resistor and onto coil -.
How'd I do, guys?
Remove the bottom cover from the leading coil assembly. Unsolder one of the wires from the ballast resistor (or cut it from the stock ignitor). Remove stock ignitor. Connect the ballast resistor in series with one of the wires from your leading ignitor on the dizzy. I don't it matters but maybe hook it to the negative side of the coil?
The B terminal of the ignitor goes to the + terminal of the coil. The C terminal of the ignitor goes to the ballast resistor. Then th eother side of the ballast resistor goes to the - terminal fo the coil.
You could simply extend the wires from the stock leading coil over to the strut tower where the 2nd gen leading coil is mounted and hook it up as I described above. The thick wire goes to coil + and the thinner wire goes through the ballast resistor and onto coil -.
How'd I do, guys?
09-07-04, 03:16 AM
#88
RTFFAQ
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Olathe, KS USA
Posts: 1,049
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry, no cheesy diagram. But I followed metallic_rock's instructions while looking at the pics in the first page of this thread and everything worked out fine.
I just went out and looked at the setup. I have a thin, yellow/blue wire connected to a black wire coming from the 2nd gen ignitor. There's another black wire coming from the 2nd gen igniter and connecting to a post on the 2nd gen leading coil. Then I have a fat wire coming out of the harness from the dizzy connected to the other post on the 2nd gen coil. Trying to follow jeff's post, it appears the B terminal wire from the J-109 is the fat wire that goes directly to the 2nd gen coil and the C terminal wire from the J-109 is connected to the ballast resister (which connects to the 2nd gen coil).
I just went out and looked at the setup. I have a thin, yellow/blue wire connected to a black wire coming from the 2nd gen ignitor. There's another black wire coming from the 2nd gen igniter and connecting to a post on the 2nd gen leading coil. Then I have a fat wire coming out of the harness from the dizzy connected to the other post on the 2nd gen coil. Trying to follow jeff's post, it appears the B terminal wire from the J-109 is the fat wire that goes directly to the 2nd gen coil and the C terminal wire from the J-109 is connected to the ballast resister (which connects to the 2nd gen coil).
09-07-04, 05:47 PM
#94
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 4,236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Jeff20B: When i did my 2nd gen coil upgrade I move the wire on the cap that were attached to T, T1 and T2 and put them on L, L1 and L2 then to the trailing plugs.. is this right? Also the plug wires from 2nd gen coil to plugs is there a L1 or L2? Don't have the cover on the coil. I just hooked them up to my leading plugs
09-07-04, 07:59 PM
#95
Yes, you wired both the cap and 2nd gen coil correctly. There is no wrong way to wire up the 2nd gen coil because it outputs the same sparks at the same time on both high voltage terminals. Just hook each leading wire to whichever coil output is more convenient.
As for the cap, if you had accidentally wired it up wrong, you'd know at anything above idle. peejay and I are the only people I know who have ever experienced this. It's funny because it'll idle, but any sort of load or reving will make your engine buck and snort quite a bit. Trying to run DLIDFIS on the trailing plugs, or anything else that makes them both fire at the same time, would also cause this sort of detonation. This is the reason for 2nd gen RX-7s to use two seperate coils for trailing where each coil only fires once per rotor face.
As for the cap, if you had accidentally wired it up wrong, you'd know at anything above idle. peejay and I are the only people I know who have ever experienced this. It's funny because it'll idle, but any sort of load or reving will make your engine buck and snort quite a bit. Trying to run DLIDFIS on the trailing plugs, or anything else that makes them both fire at the same time, would also cause this sort of detonation. This is the reason for 2nd gen RX-7s to use two seperate coils for trailing where each coil only fires once per rotor face.
09-08-04, 12:08 AM
#96
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Drifting a Roundabout near you!
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Ballast wire connections?
Originally Posted by gonzz
you will see two black wires inside the 2nd gen coil. One of them goes to the - side of the coil. the other black wire gets spliced into the - side of your stock wiring. Run the + wire from your stock wiring to the + side of the 2nd gen coil.. you done.. easy once you know how to do it... Thanks for everyones help!!!! Awsome Forum!!!
Need some input,,,,,,I like drawings.
I looked at the photos again and looked and mine and I am now sure that the ballast can be on the positive or the negative side of the circuit!
I feel better now.
09-12-04, 05:21 PM
#99
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Drifting a Roundabout near you!
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
10 Posts
Hey Jeff, read your PM's I need to know where the other connection on the resistor goes, I go the bottom connection going to the -negative connector on the 2ndGen coil, the top wire is connected to nothing.....where does it go?????
09-12-04, 06:10 PM
#100
Are you talking to me? I never got a PM from you.
Actually, your refrences to "ballast" and "resistor" should be replaced by "ballast resistor".
Did you remove the 2nd gen ignitor from its base? You should leave it in there and later connect it to the J-109 so the J-109 feeds it a proper dwell and square wave, or something. Basically, the J-109 will mimic the 2nd gen's ECU trigger output and correctly switch the 2nd gen ignitor, which is capable of more current. The end result is a stronger spark than from just the J-109 alone. 82turbo is the person to contact about that mod (it needs an extra resistor installed uh somewhere).
As for standard 2GCDFIS, and which wire goes to the ballast resistor, or how the resistor is connected, again, I've never done this particular mod, but I think it honestly doesn't matter. The the resistor can either be hooked to the + or - side of the coil (but not both at the same time!). I guess if you're into experimenting, you could try it both ways and tell us which way felt more powerful. It's not scientific, but it's good enough for me.
Happy coiling!
Edit: I just got your PM after submitting this post.
The resistor sits inline on one of the coil terminals. Its job is to bump up the resistance of the leading coil so it draws less current (the ignitor stays cooler and lives longer).
Actually, your refrences to "ballast" and "resistor" should be replaced by "ballast resistor".
Did you remove the 2nd gen ignitor from its base? You should leave it in there and later connect it to the J-109 so the J-109 feeds it a proper dwell and square wave, or something. Basically, the J-109 will mimic the 2nd gen's ECU trigger output and correctly switch the 2nd gen ignitor, which is capable of more current. The end result is a stronger spark than from just the J-109 alone. 82turbo is the person to contact about that mod (it needs an extra resistor installed uh somewhere).
As for standard 2GCDFIS, and which wire goes to the ballast resistor, or how the resistor is connected, again, I've never done this particular mod, but I think it honestly doesn't matter. The the resistor can either be hooked to the + or - side of the coil (but not both at the same time!). I guess if you're into experimenting, you could try it both ways and tell us which way felt more powerful. It's not scientific, but it's good enough for me.
Happy coiling!
Edit: I just got your PM after submitting this post.
The resistor sits inline on one of the coil terminals. Its job is to bump up the resistance of the leading coil so it draws less current (the ignitor stays cooler and lives longer).
Last edited by Jeff20B; 09-12-04 at 06:14 PM.