The torque on the graph is in N-M (Newton-metres), and a quick Google search found a conversion to lb-ft:
Min torque listed as 105N-M = 77.4439Lb-Ft,
Avg torque listed as 386N-M = 284.6986Lb-Ft,
& Max torque listed as 553N-M = 407.8713Lb-Ft.



Still pretty damn impressive! Uhm, excuse me: WAY more powerful than anything I've yet to build/own!

Are the horsepower figures listed in "horsepower-metric" or "metric-horsepower" values? There's not *much* difference between the two, just the normal (for us in the 'states; remember, mortenf's in Norway) HP calculations are equal to 550ft.-lb./sec whereas the "metric-horsepower" calculations are equal to 542.5ft.-lb./sec.

To convert metric HP to standard (US) HP, just multiply by 0.9863.
To convert standard (US) HP to metric HP, just multiply by 1.014.

Here's the site I found on the quick Google search to convert Newton-metres to Lb-Ft:
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/convert.htm

HTH to clarify some minor misunderstandings from the Lb-ft./Ft.-Lb. crowd...

Anyway, congrats to you, mortenf, for all your hard work and effort on this project; it's great to see such quality fabrication, research, application, and dedication to your car to achieve these power levels!

Good luck with the additional tuning sessions! I'm sure you'll surpass these power levels with the correct combination of tuning, prep work, and more expensive parts/goodies (and hopefully smooth out the torque and power curves while you're at it, effectively increasing the steadiness of the powerband and useful mid-to-upper-range power...)

BTW, any links to threads with detailed info on your build or any more specs you could post/share with us (ie, injector sizing, primary & secondary injector placement, primary & secondary runner length, port timing specs, EMS, turbo & specs/mods, BOV/BPV, wastegate sizing/placement, pics & info on the interior design of your plenum, final oil and water cooling system set-ups, etc.) would GREATLY assist some (ok, most) of us with less experience then you, and we would be more than just greatly appreciated to be let in on some of your secrets; hell, our souls would forever be in debt to you!

Also, any other pics of your custom manifolds (both intake and exhaust), plenum, heat exchangers, and whatever else you could get pics of would be greatly appreciated and keep us all in serious debt to you! I (and I'm sure many others) will be anxiously awaiting some more pics/info and your next dyno session...

Until then, we'll be wishing you the best with our fingers crossed!

Sincerely,

 

It is a very impressive build no doubt but it is also a mustang dyno. They are off alot compared to a dyno jet. None the less I DEMAND VIDEO

Put my 12a turbo build to shame lol.

 

The gsl-se was only sold in north america. Instead of having the 13B in the top spec models elsewhere in the world, they had a 12A Turbo (non-intercooled).

 

Not quite what I was expecting, very nice.

 

First of all, thanks for the replies!

The dyno i tested on is actually known to be quite strict, and has recently been updated and tested. Cars that has been dynoed on a dynapack near by, have got a lot less on this dyno..

Anyways, im happy with the results! I intended to go to a race track this weekend, but its pouring down and cold as hell, and i lent my van to a friend.. A 800 mile round trip (tracks in Norway are far apart), to slide around in the rain, wasnt very tempting.

rxforspeed: you are correct, we use newton meters, but the RWHP is the same standard as you guys. As to pictures of the manifolds, i dont have any good ones right now, but i can take some this weekend.

The exhaust manifold is 321 stainless, 1.5/8", that tapers down at the end. I tried as best i could to get it equal lenght. Beeing a split pulse turbo, i wanted the runners to be completely separate alle the way, so im using two TiAL MVS wastegates (38mm), placed a little tilted directly on each runner. I have no clue how long they are! Screamer pipes directly from the wastegates in to open air.. Spring rate just under 13 psi. No boost control other than the wastegates. 3,5 downpipe, into 3,5 inch exhaust with two free flow mufflers. Turbo is aTurbonetics T62-1, but i dont recall all the specs on the top of my head..

The lower intake manifold is a ported and modified S4 turbo manifold. Two 900cc injectors in the stock placement, plus two 1680 in a adapter blended and ported to match the manifold to the engine. The top is custom with runner lenghts calculated with a induction wave calculator (www.velocity-of-sound.com). The runners attach to a flange that meets the flange of the plenum, so that i could experiment with different size plenum and runner lengths.Secondary runners beeing shorter and bigger. The plenum has raised velocity stacks. TB is a 80 mm Ebay unit. I need to do some adjustments here, its a bit hard to control the throttle opening..

The oil system consist of a couple of rerouted passages, race regulator, race oil pump, two 19 row Setrab coolers, and AN10 tubing. No OMP. Mazda Factory Racing oil pan.

Cooling system consist of a electric 55GPH waterpump, remote mount thermostat and PWR radiator. Expansion type with overflow tank.

As to port timing and specs.. Well, the exhaust is a little bigger than the template you can buy from Racing Beat. Exhaust sleeve still in there, but ported and mirror polished. The intake is a extended version of the street port. Its as big as you can go before parts start falling in I honestly dont know the port timing.

EMS is a Haltech E6X, using a CAS from a TII as a trigger. Running 4 separate coils, tough not sequential. Going CDI next.

mikeric/twinkletoes: The car was built for track days, so the drivetrain/suspension has been upgraded, Im running coilovers up front/pedestals rear. Mazdaspeed LSD/Moser axles. TII/FD brakes. Bilstein adjustable dampers front/spax adjustables rear. Solid/polyurethane bushings. Splitter up front. Dot legal slicks all around. Gutted interior and roll cage. Electrical power steering. Track days are really popular here in Norway, and there are a lot of FDs there

 

wait so if the 12a rx7 was bought in japan then it could have had a turbo?

 

Mustangs are usually 5% lower than a Dynojet FYI... so if he made 509 on a mustang he'd probably do 535 or so on a Dynojet.

 

To my first fc

Yup, indeed it could. Other than the obvious turbo under the hood, there are a few other telltale signs that the originals had:

- The 12AT housings had a black backgrund on the "mazda" letters.
- It only had one fender badge, "Savannah Rx7" on the left front fender
- Trim levels were GT, GTX and Limited
- Boost gauge under the tach
- "Rotary Turbo" badging on the B-pillars, rear and on the air filter box
- They all had LSD rear ends
- Some (not all) had adjustable dampers
- The fan was orange, as were the spark plug wires and the plenum
- It had two ECUs, one for injection, and one for knock control

You could also get it with the extremly rare 6 port 12A in Japan. My car is originally a GTX version.

 

Yes.

The gsl-se was only sold in north america. Instead of having the 13B in the top spec models elsewhere in the world, they had a 12A Turbo (non-intercooled).

 

I had to have a cigarette after seeing that.

 

Would love a video!!!!

 

weights and stickies?

not too difficult to plant power with a little foresight.

 

Let's hope he plans to actually take corners with the thing though.

 

Holy crap, is this thread still around!?

I have actually driven the car for a couple of years now, still havent opened the engine.. Have blown a couple of gearboxes and rear ends though! I have also killed two TiAL wastegates, that got so hot that the anodizing turned from black to gold..

Putting power down is a problem.. Especially during corners. Its tricky to hold a straight line, when the rear wants do slide constantly, but having switched to full slick tires has helped a lot.

I also switched to E85, and dynoed again, but only managed 513 RWHP, due to wheel spin on the dyno.. Had some 600 RWHP blips, but no real mesurements. I was using the slick tires at the time, but could not get them warm enough.. On track, i have found that 500 RWHP is more than enough to scare me shitless, so im going to switch back to unleaded for the 2012 season, and focus more on handling. That means converting it to LHD (more room on the exhaust side) and converting it to rack and pinion.

Here is a picture of how it looks when i rolled it in to winter storage this year. Its already stripped down now, and awaiting further upgrades..

 

The thing is gorgeous!

 

This is my first time reading this, and I am very impressed -- as much with the quality of the build and your knowledge as the numbers. I am gradually increasing boost on my 13B-RE and hope to reach a similar power level.

Regarding the blown gearboxes and rearends:

What kind of gearboxes -- FB? Turbo II?

What kind of rearend -- 12A? 13B? Other?

I have a Turbo II gearbox, and I'm expecting it to live. My GSL-SE rearend, maybe not.

As for the traction issue -- the rear suspension geometry on these cars isn't optimal. There's another thread on that. With your skills, I'm sure you can easily fix it.

 

Still Awesome. Must ask: Those wheels have to be custom. Who made them? Size?

 

:o

 

Not sure about the OP but I will convay my experience....

When I had my TII powered GSL-SE it made 444HP and 363lbs torque.

I blew thru 3 GSL-SE rear ends that had upgraded Moser axles and 4.44 gears. The Moser axles are NOT what they claim to be so PLEASE don't waste your money on them, just go Ford 8.8 and call it a day.

I blew thru 2 TII tranny's. I had light weight flywheel and ACT 6 puck clutch..

Once you get up in power, you will learn real quickly what the 1st gen lacks as far as drivetrain ability....

BUT.... I do miss her...

 

it's over 2 years late, but let me say ... kudos to you, sir! also, i like your modesty (check the bold and underlined parts).

 

How did you use the car? Launches from a standing start? Street tires?

Did you ever install the Ford 8.8? I'm wondering how low I can get the car in the rear with one of those.

What broke in the tranny? What sort of upgrade is available?

 

the R1R's are a great tire.

 

had to of been abused to blow out the TII gearboxes, i've put together cars with more power that haven't blown up a single gearbox even in heavier cars.

 

The gearboxes i have blown were 12AT ones, basically the same as the stock 1.gen box. No launches, just ripped apart in third, when boost came in.. I have opened a couple of boxes and it looks like the shafts starts to bend after a little abuse, causing them to litteraly explode. I basically drained 1,2 and 3rd gear out the plug.

Installed a 929 V6 box this year (same as TII, and fits with a RX4 bellhousing), and it seems like its happy with its current home! Might get an oil cooler for it later..

The rear end is currently a stock housing with Moser axles and LSD, but its starting to show signs of wear, and im guessing its going to blow like the others.. Im going 8.8 this year. I have pondered around going IRS, but havent got around to reasearching what "almost" fits etc.

Wheels are indeed custom, i had them made by Image Wheels in UK. They are 17", 8" up front and 9" rears. Tires are Yokohama slicks, 240/610. The tires are dirt cheap, as we can buy them directly from Yokohama Motorsport, slightly used for testing in pre season for a racing season. The wheels cost an arm and a leg tough.

BTW, what i meant by nothing fancy, was that it does not have a ton of extras, just parts that are well known to perform. I know the are on the expencive side, and thats probably why i live in a condo, instead of a house!

 

I have blown two low milage TII boxes just hitting boost in third gear.

No ****.

It's not the HP, it's the TORQUE.