Ok, I have an '83 GS with a driveline vibration. I have gotten conflicting info about the u-joints used in 83. Some say they are non-serviceable units, such as those used in the 84 & 85 models. Others show the replaceable joints that were used in 79-82 models.
I have heard that both styles were used in 83, so how does a person go about determining which type they have? Are the non-replaceable joints larger?
Is there any easy way to tell which type I have, short of just tearing it apart?

 

I would suspect that you would most definately have the serviceable type. However if you are unsure Mazda will identify it by using your chassi no.

Hope this helps

 

Not sure if they are serviceable or not, but I have a friend that works at a driveline shop that will even custom build driveshafts. They have replaced many of the "non-serviceable" ones. My friend checked and APPARENTLY if you do replace the "non-serviceable" ones, they are still never just right, and you have a vibration at some speed or another.

I'm sure you will receive confilicting info from other people - I can only go by what I've been told. I suspect its very subjective.

 

83 was a split year. You'll have to look at the driveshaft and see if there are any clips holding the u-joint into the yokes or not. If not, then it's the nonserviceable type.

 

Easier to say, than do. My car sits about 2" lower than stock. I did raise it up earlier today, but didn't go under it due to not having safety stands at the time.
However, the joints look to be the same as the servicable units I saw today. I cannot tell for sure as to whether there are any visible clips.

 

Yup, the u-joints does not have a c-clip like the pre-81. A custom driveshaft is much cheaper than mazdatrix. However, the u-joints are much larger than stock so you will need to loose the heat shield.

 

Dropped the shaft today. They are the "non-serviceable" joints. Good thing that wasn't the problem.
Someone used mis-matched bolts on the flange, 2 different styles, and put the mates beside each other. Even my super calibrated bare hands could feel the weight difference. I didn't have any others that would work, so I just reused those, placing them staggered, and most of the vibration disappeared. I'll get 4 that match and replace them in a couple days, along with using my needle tip grease gun adapter so I can add some lube.

 

Make sure you get the equavalent of grade 8 or so.

 

Sorry, but those are grade 10 bolts. So are the pp bolts.

 

I think you're refering to class 10.9...?
That's the metric equivilant to grade 8 imperial.

Metric class 8.8 is equivilant to standard class 5....