I wasnt 100% sure who to ask this question to since my car is such frankenstein car...so why not post it a few places ..

..on with the question. ok my FB is being built to be a somewhat multi-function car...drag, AutoX, Drift, Daily...ect ect...i have drift and AutoX suspension setup pretty much down, im buying a set of Coilovers for the front and rear, but i know/think that will be to stiff for a drag setup, so im wondering what some of you FAST FB's do to actually get a good launch? btw...im talking somewhere in the 10's in the 1/4...anyone have any advice..

Also you could give me some advice on the best ways to stiffen the chassis so it doesnt twist to much that would be awesome...thanks in advance

~Nick

 

well if you have a 10 second car then your probally tubbed if not then you need to.
but as far as the rear end goes if the axle shafts stay solid (no front to back movement wich useally means nylon block) then your drag will be ok and the drift. but the evrery day driver thing no way. and the rally x needs movement both ways to prevent breaking... tub it, drag it , get 14's and live with it. you cant do everything unless you have a lego setup for a rear end suspension.

 

This is true... If you want a car that does everything, then expect a car that isn't great at anything. Of course your chances of success will be directly related to how much money you are prepared to throw at the project...

 

You dont need any sort of special suspension for the drags. When I drag my car I just put the 21 year old standrad springs back in it and off I go.

Im sure if you just make your coil overs as soft as they will go when at the drag strip it will be fine.

You dont need tubs to run 10's either, you just need a bit of power and grip.

 

i realize i dont need to tub my car...however it is going to be...and yes the suspension is going to be kinda like a lego setup easy to put new springs ect in...should only take about 30 min max to swap in a strut or coilover assembly.

12AT...are you having any problems with the chassis twisting at all...this seems to be my main concern

And to everyone...This car will be better at all those things than most cars...and thats all im truely looking for. And if i cant hit 10's with 450+whp...then theres something wrong (givin that i am hooking up properly)

 

Strip the interior and weld all the tacks. Then put a cage in it. Finally get different tires for each type of situation. Without the proper compound you are taking a huge step backwards.

 

If you plan on running 10s at the track, cage it. That will stiffen it up. Seam welding will help too.

 

sticky tires, stock springs, and an automatic

lol but seriously, tires are your friend. other than that just get real good at shifting. i don't know what your rear gear is/ will be but if it's still the 3.90 then get some 26" tall tires and plan to rev it out or be in 5th crossing the line.

 

Yea its getting caged..no doubt about it..other wise i wouldnt have a way to mount my rear coilovers the way i want to...

And of course get different rims and tire combos...lol...slicks for drifting/autoX AND drags......no so much really

 

so what powerplant are you using that makes 450rwhp?

 

No I havent had any chassis problems at all.

I can only see the tubs being more of a problem than they are worth. Unless you just plan on mini tubbing and just cutting out the standard arches and welding in square edged ones.

With 500rwhp I didnt have many traction issues at the strip. It spun a bit in 1st gear but not enough to worry about. If you get the right offset wheels then you can get good sized rubber under the back.

 

get a 35mm offset 15x7" wheel and you can fit 9" slicks

box the upper links and keep the rubber bushings, good shocks with weak (or stock) springs

my motor makes over 420lb/ft of torque 300 of that starts at 2000rpm and i don't have ANY wheel hop with slicks