Alright, first, if you like the way I have this set up, then say so. But if you don't, give me CONSTRUCTIVE critisism.

This is the custom gauge panel I've been working on for about a month now. Basically I used the stock gauge cluster, cut out the areas from the stock face plate, then fiberglassed it all in. The whole thing was fiberglassed with 3 layers to make it stiff enough. Then I cut out the holes for the 4 gauges, tach, water temp, volt meter, and oil pressure. I have no need for the idiot lights as I'm no idiot and can read my gauges and check fluid levels on a regular basis. Anyway, I used bondo to the the final leveling of the whole thing, then spot putty to fill in any bubble holes in the bondo. I used 400 grit sandpaper to sand it all down, then used high build primer and sanded that with 400. Once all that was done, I sprayed on 3 coats of flat black paint.

As for the speedometer looking different, I cut out a clear plexiglass backing in place of the stock speedometer and custom made the face to look as similar to the other gauges as I could. Anyway, here are the results of about 20 hours of work. I've also go a center console piece (where the radio goes) that I'm customizing as well. Its going to hold 2 gauges and the various switches. The first pic is kinda shitty, as is the second, but you get the point. I should also mention that this is my first time playing with fiberglass.

 

i like it. the tach is nice, big and in the middle where it should be (unlike 84&85 tach's)
what kind of gauges did you use?

 

Pretty nice. I think you should have recessed them to be flush more like the speedo. Good job overall

 

Looks good, nice craftmanship. On the construtive side, the new gauges seem to be placed a little too high, I would have gone witha 10k tach, even though they are hard to find in some series, and you need a matching speedo.

Had I not wanted to keep my idiot lights, I would have done what you did.

 

Pretty nice mate, but if you ever race you'll soon find out idiot lights are the only thing you look at, hence shift lights on tachs as you dont have time to check the gauges.

 

Thanks for the nice comments. Overall I am pleased with the results. This is my first time I have worked with fiberglass, and I'm actually surprised at the results. I do plan on getting the matching speedo in the future, but thats when I get the rest of the drivetrain in order. But it is not possible to recess the gauges at all. As it is I'm lucky they fit. As for moving them down, I would have had to cut out the idiot light cluster in the bottom, which would make for an even bigger job than it was. I like where they are placed anyway.

As for the make of the gauges (puts on flame suit) they are iEquus Performance. I have used Equus gauges before and never had any problems, and when they came out with these gauges that actually look good, I figured I would go with them. I too would like a 10K tach, but Equus doesn't make one and I have no need for it. I only have an S4 13B, which is good for 7000 rpm anyway, and I don't have plans for going any higher than 8000 rpm on any engine I may build in the future. I don't plan on circuit racing or auto x-ing this specific car, so idiot lights are not needed.

Oh ya, I'll post pics of the center stack when I get it done. I've got the fuel gauge and the wideband A/F meter going in there, along with a starter button and various switches.

 

What's more impressive is your steering wheel lol

 

All in all then, I would say you did an excellant job, especially for some of the 1st time trade work. Didn't even think about the idiot lights being in the way. I would prefer a dark bezel around the gauges, but I'm just as guilty as my Ultra-lites have polished bezels too. Paint the screws on your steering wheel. lol.

 

That is very nice work. One ? is that the milage on your car...275,311 ? LoL

 

Never mind those are km/h which will cut it in 1/2...maybe

 

I'm dissappointed about the screw heads on the steering wheel. Its barely been used an they are already rusting! I would have expected more from Grant.

As for the mileage, its about 170K miles. Thats the mileage when the original engine blew up on me, about 2 years ago. I can't believe its been that long already.

These days, its hard to find a tasteful dark bezel around the gauges. Most of the time the gauges with a dark bezel are pretty lame. I do like the look of these though.

 

looks amazing, not exactly the path i would have taken, but none the less, it is amazing.

 

I have the same steering wheel. It's been on my car for a couple years, and another car before that, and no rust at all. I'm surprised you're having that issue. I think I'd email a picture to grant, along with a "What the hell?" note.
http://www.grantproducts.com/default.html

 

I think the guages look great, at first I didn't know about the kph but then I saw you wheren't in the US. I especially like the three little ones off to the left, looks almost factory as far as placement goes.

 

those look awsome! the only thing i would change would be make all the gadges one stile, not have 4 w/ crome rings and one w/o
over all looks great!

 

Very impressive, looks great

 

Looks great. Good luck getting to 220

 

i like em. i would have gone with a aftermarket speedometer aswell, though

 

As stated before, I do plan on going with an aftermarket speedo to match the others, but I want to get the rest of my drivetrain in order first, and I want to look into compatibility. But I should be able to hit the 220 mark. Remember, its in KM/H, and 220 is about 130 mph. My engine setup should be able to reach redline in 5th gear, which is about 140mph.

DriftFB, that was the whole point of doing it the way I did. I could have just made a custom panel from aluminum and mounted it in the stock location instead of messing with the fiberglassing, but I wanted a stock kinda look, but still unique.

There is only one gauge that will not be the same as the rest, and thats the wideband A/F gauge that I got from AEM. Its got a silver ring and white face, but thats where the similarities end unfortunately. Oh well, I'll deal with it. Equus makes a boost gauge if I decide to go turbo in the future, along with a bunch of others.

 

Oh ya. Duh

 

I LOVE IT! Great job!

 

great work i would have to say....i too am going this route with my gauges...i was going to fiberglass as well. is it possible to keep the idiot lights at the bottom?..it appears that u have just enough room to squeeze them in....also im not putting the tach in the middle instead thats where my speedo is goin b/c i already have a 5" 10k tach

as for the speedo...what brand are u looking at going with b/c ive also been looking for a speedometer that will be compatiable with my drivetrain setup.....im using the 12a 5-speed tranny....i was informed that u can change the speedo calibration by changing some o-ring/washer on the transmission..is this true?

but all and all im impressed with your work...especially with it being a first time with fiber...keep up the good work....parker

 

It is completely possible to keep the idiot lights, I just eliminated them because I don't need them, and I hate the way they look.

As for the speedometer, I want to go with the iEquus one to match the rest of the gauges, but I need some info about the speedo cable and the speed the cable rotates at 60mph. The speedo takes 0.104" (2.64mm) square drive. It needs to rotate at 1000rpm at 60mph. Does anyone here know if any of these are true for the RX-7?

 

Nice job...

 

I decided to brave the cold and pull the speedo cable from the cluster on my car. All that work to get it in and it pulls out without a problem. But anyway, the drive is .1" square, which is close enough for the speedo I want to use. The only thing I can't figure out is the speed the drive rotates at 60mph.