I'm doing some long awaited work to the front end of my '79 GS. I've got new RB springs on the way, Koni strut inserts and a new idler arm and inner tie rod (right side.) I know that I will have to get an alignment done after I do the idler arm/tie rod install but what about the struts?

The RB springs will most likely arrive AFTER the idler arm/tie rod and I want to get those in ASAP to fix my wishy washy steering. If I do that and get the car aligned, will I have to get ANOTHER alignment when I take the struts out to replace the inserts and the springs? Also I wanted to get some negative camber if I can, what's involved to do so with the stock struts?

While I'm down there, I was hoping to do the engine pan gasket as well. Do I have to move all the steering linkages aside to get the pan off? It looks like it to me, but maybe you guys have a trick you could impart to me.

For the rear end of things, I was thinking about drilling the bushings in the Watts link and the upper links and attempting the lock nut trick. Have you guys found out anything else about how to effectively retain the bolts and prevent rotation, or should I just slam a couple of tack welds on the bolt heads? I'm also going to try with and without a rear bar. The post '80 bars are less beefy correct? Is there a low cost junkyard option for a bigger front bar, or am I SOL for a low-buck solution? (The treasury is kinda dry after buying springs, struts, idler arm/tie rod and tires.)

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

I would just tack weld the bolts for the watts linkage in, if you have the facilities to cut the welds when the bushings need to be replaced. One word of warning is not to get the bushings too hot. They will burn and become brittle and useless. They might even melt away.

 

On your question about alignment, anytime that you impact the steering joints or tie-rods, you'll want to get an alignment to protect your tires and steering response. The lowered springs will also impact the toe-in, since the lowered suspension causes additional toe-in - the tie rods push outward on the knuckle arms which results in increased toe-in.

Struts themselves, without springs being changed to lowered, should not require an alignment check, but if the ride-height changes, it may be worth the effort.

You can do the Autocross racer's trick of using toe-lines (string measurements) to do a quick toe check without taking it somewhere and putting it on the rack. Recall too, that if you're really trying to get it perfect, you'll want to have the alignment performed with you sitting in the driver's seat. HTH,

 

Quick question...when you that quick toe check by measuring across the wheels, do you do it with the car in the air or on the ground?

 

Unless you're concerned about toe-in during flight, I'd suggest checking it on the ground.

But, hey, that's just me... (kidding)

 

The way I always check the toe in/out on my cars is:

Supplies needed: (2) 1 quart paint cans
(1) regular screw driver
(1) tape measure
(1) floor jack

First jack up the car on one side, at least to get the front tire off the ground. Place one of the cans in front of the tire, then put the screw drive on top of it (laying down) with the point facing the tire. Now spin the tire and apply the tip to the middle of the tread pattern. this should create a nice continuous line all the way around the tire. Now lower the car and move on to the other side. Once both sides are complete and the car is back on the ground. Roll the car back and forth a few times to set the tires and suspension.

Now for the fun part, place the cans in front of the tires and grab your tape measure and measure from the line on one tire to the line on the other tire. Now, move the cans to the back of the tires and do the same. This should give you a good indication of your toe status. Now, adjust you tie rods accordingly. Roll the car back and forth a few more times and check it again.

Obviously, if you car is to low you may not be able to use the paint can method, and the closer to the center of the tire height wise the more accurate the method will be. Remember to always work safe when working on a vehicle that is jacked up, and don't forget to tighten the jam nuts on the tie rods once you are done.

I know this wasn't the initial topic of the thread, but it seamed the direction it was going, so I figured I would throw this out. Hope someone can find it helpful.

 

I just changed my outer tie rods and was wondering how to adjust the toe in without removing the tie rod from the knuckle.

Can I just loosing both lock nuts and turn the shaft that goes between the inner and outer tie rods? This would allow for much finer adjustments than removing the tie rod from the knuckle and turning it one whole revolution, woudl it not?

Just wondering because this is the first time I have done this myself.

Thanks.

 

Nope, they are not 'turnbuckles' in the common definition - i.e., threaded opposite directions with lock nuts to allow for single-operation adjustment.

In other words, you'll need to remove the outer ball joint from the knuckle arm to allow you to loosen the lock nuts and change the rod length, IIRC. I had to adjust my toe-in at home after lowering springs and new struts and found that the last alignment done, the tech had apparently used pliers to tighten both locknuts on the driver's side. Needless to say, I couldn't get the inside locknut off, since I couldn't get a wrench around it.

This left me with the above procedure to remove the balljoint from the knuckle arm. PEP Boys has a small gear puller about the perfect size for less than $10 - money well spent, since you can use it an all kinds of things. HTH,