Mine did. Then I fixed it.

I went to change the steering wheel in the S model and found out that the little plastic rivits are broken which allows the steering shaft to telescope down a bit. I know these cars have a collapsible steering shaft and I may have broken the plastic things when I removed the stock steering wheel.

I first tried pulling manually. No go. Then I got out the big harmonic balancer puller and hooked it around the plastic rim of the steering wheel hub. The column cover was already out of the way so I had plenty of room to work. As I tightened, the plastic started to deform so I had the bright idea to use a light weight sheet metal hammer. I figured it wouldn't collapse the shaft. I guess I was wrong, but I eventually got the wheel off. It was on there way tighter than it should have been. Plus it looks like the PO had to use a puller as well because there was a slightly smashed down section on the stud from what else but a puller. Hmm. At least my puller had a nice point which nestled perfectly in the divot on the stud.

The other wheel I wanted to use looks to only fit when the shaft is in its collapsed state. It apparently doesn't have the lip (extra length) that FB steering wheels must have in order to properly cancel turn signals and make contact with the horn spring loaded deally. If the shaft is down, this new wheel works fine.

Yeah, no thanks. Looks like I'll have to go back to the stock S model steering wheel, not that there's anything wrong it it, other than it's kinda big and is kinda in the way. I'll have to get a compatible steering wheel later. The other wheel fits fine in the REPU. I wonder why Mazda made this subtle change?

As for fixing the steering shaft, I'll install the plastic column covers and figure out where the steering wheel should be height-wise. Then measure 7.5" to 8" up from the floor, drill a 3/8 or 1/2" hole in the outer column sleeve and drill a smaller hole in the collapsible part of the steering shaft where both pieces slide over each other, then either use an aluminum rivit (if I can locate a rivit gun and at least one rivit) or a cotter pin if I have the space to install one and bend the end pieces over, or press in a roll pin if I can do it with no support on the back side (doubtful), or cut some small threads in it and install a small machine screw ranging from as large as a 10mm head bolt with 6mm x 1.0 thread (like a long oil pan bolt to give you an idea) and grind the head down to half height or as small as a J-109 ignitor screw if I have the right tap for it. All these ideas, aside from the ignitor screw, were found using the search button and some time reading.

 

And now it's fixed. My steering wheel no longer telescopes!

I ended up drilling a 1/8" hole first and then drilled a 3/8" hole in the outer column after cutting some starter threads. I cut threads for a 4mm x .7 screw that came from an old air control and check valve (ACV). Thread length was about 1/2" long.

I used the steering wheel lock in the ignition switch to hold the wheel steady. It turns out I drilled through the corner of the shaft instead of the flat part. The screw head slightly rubs the edges of the 3/8" hole because they're a little gnarly and I can't really reach anything up inside to debur it. It very slightly rubs only when the screw head passes the drilled edge. It's otherwise smooth so I expect it will self-clearance in time.

If I had to do it over, I'd first drill the small pilot hole through the column cover, then feel around for the flat part of the shaft while cranking the wheel one direction or the other. Then proceed. I'd also consider an aluminum rivit because it seems like the fastest and safest way to fix this. I just didn't have access to a rivit gun but I did have the right tap and correct length screw, complete with lock washer.

Good luck with your efforts.

 

Thanks alot for the info...... I do like trying to convince people that Mazda made it that way and then proceed to show them how it helps in racing.

 

Hey Jeff, another good write up.

I had talked to Billy over the weekend about this very same problem. The advice he gave was to pull the black column cover back and insert a 1/8" aluminum dowel into where the holes are and line them up and insert etc.

Didn't get a chance to look at it but I have a feeling removing that black column cover is going to be a PITA. Any advice Jeff or did you just drill right through that bit too?

I assume you have to remove steering wheel and combination switch. Maybe if I figure it out I can do a write up and we can compete! haha.

 

Billy's version doesn't sound right to me. All I know is I left the wheel on and actually had to install my plastic combination switch cover because the car came without it. I had a couple laying around so I grabbed the best two halves and installed them after determining what type of screws to use. This was so I could set the steering wheel depth to where it looked natural. Then I drilled and tapped.

 

Hmm, guess I'll have to take a more in depth look see.

 

My suggestion was basically what you did - minus you drilled a large hole in the black outer steering housing to gain access to the shafts.

When converting to our steering kit the lower half of the shaft is replaced with a new one. Once you have the inner steering shafts out of the black outer housing it becomes clear. There are two 1/8" holes in the upper half. You drill through through the lower half (inserted into the upper half) using the stock holes as a guide.

We supply aluminum rod to insert into the holes and then you mushroom the head of them to retain. We also supply a lenght of heat shrink to shrink down over the two pins to ensure they stay put.

-billy

 

Ah, that makes sense now. Thanks.

 

Jeff I'll give you $40 to fix mine this weekend!