do i need this (pic inside)
#1
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: KING COUNTY, WA
Posts: 4,980
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do i need this (pic inside)
Hey guys, im out cleaning the new engine getting it ready to put in, and i wanna remove that metal plate below the carby (drip plate?)
here look and tell me if i cna remove it
cause it looks stupid
here look and tell me if i cna remove it
cause it looks stupid
#2
Stratoflattener
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Lincoln, NE; Cambridge, MA
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hell of a coincidence. I'm actually in the process of rebuilding my carb, and I'm having to deal with issues regarding that plate as well. Here's the info:
First off, it's not metal, its phenolic (basically fiberglass made with plastic instead of epoxy). Its function is to serve as a heat barrier between the intake manifold and the carb (hence the cooling passages, and input/output lines on the edge nearest the engine).
I'm pretty sure you need it there for the carb to stay cool enough to not vapor-lock.
Oh, and if you ever have to remove any gaskets stuck to it, be careful not to remove material from it as well, and don't use a chisel.
First off, it's not metal, its phenolic (basically fiberglass made with plastic instead of epoxy). Its function is to serve as a heat barrier between the intake manifold and the carb (hence the cooling passages, and input/output lines on the edge nearest the engine).
I'm pretty sure you need it there for the carb to stay cool enough to not vapor-lock.
Oh, and if you ever have to remove any gaskets stuck to it, be careful not to remove material from it as well, and don't use a chisel.
#3
Airflow is my life
Remove the whole thing? Negative, your linkage will not function, itll bind up. Yes you can cut off the drip portion and leave the part under the carb intact. But this will allow more exh heat to get to the carb, which may cause fuel in the bowls to boil. And 357 is right, its phenolic not metal. And the factory gaskets are bonded to the spacer. If you need to put in new gaskets, just put them over the factory bonded gaskets. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE THE ORIGINAL FACTORY GASKETS. You will most surely mess up the spacer. It also has another function. On the holes theres a slight restrictor. This is to kill the intake reversion wave. Bottom line on the whole spacer/drip pan is this. Unless you know what your doing, dont fool with it.
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: KING COUNTY, WA
Posts: 4,980
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks carl, ill just clean it up real good... prolly will get dirty again really quick but oh well
that intake mani is lookin pretty good so far
-greg
that intake mani is lookin pretty good so far
-greg
#6
Beware Of Squirrely Wrath
Join Date: May 2002
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Erick1120 doesn't have that phenolic heatshield/drip plate at all on his, and has run that way on both stock and rb header, I think. Never had any problems.
Just another observation,
Brian
Just another observation,
Brian
#7
Stratoflattener
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Lincoln, NE; Cambridge, MA
Posts: 475
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by Rx7carl
And the factory gaskets are bonded to the spacer. If you need to put in new gaskets, just put them over the factory bonded gaskets. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE THE ORIGINAL FACTORY GASKETS. You will most surely mess up the spacer.
And the factory gaskets are bonded to the spacer. If you need to put in new gaskets, just put them over the factory bonded gaskets. NEVER TRY TO REMOVE THE ORIGINAL FACTORY GASKETS. You will most surely mess up the spacer.
Trending Topics
#8
Airflow is my life
Originally posted by BrianHeston
Erick1120 doesn't have that phenolic heatshield/drip plate at all on his, and has run that way on both stock and rb header, I think. Never had any problems.
Just another observation,
Brian
Erick1120 doesn't have that phenolic heatshield/drip plate at all on his, and has run that way on both stock and rb header, I think. Never had any problems.
Just another observation,
Brian
#11
Airflow is my life
Notes on this. Opening the spacer holes to match the carb base yields 1CFM on a stock carb. I have chopped off the drip pan/heatsheild, but I have extra heatsheilding. Theres some inside info for you guys.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
tiger18
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
9
09-03-15 08:27 PM