dlidfis shopping list
04-26-13, 05:50 PM
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dlidfis shopping list
Thinking I'm going to go dlidfis this weekend, but want to make sure I'm on the right track with the parts I pick up. Im planning to use gm ignitors using this writeup: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...itors-1032198/
Will these parts work? They are all in stock at my local advance auto parts.
Ignitors: Buy BWD Ignition Control Module CBE4P at Advance Auto Parts
Coils: Buy Accel Super Stock Coil 8140 at Advance Auto Parts
I was also going to use this relay for the switched 12v: Buy Optronics 12VDC 40A Relay A-715 at Advance Auto Parts
I just want to make sure these are the correct parts, and that im not going to kill anything trying this... Thanks in advance!
Will these parts work? They are all in stock at my local advance auto parts.
Ignitors: Buy BWD Ignition Control Module CBE4P at Advance Auto Parts
Coils: Buy Accel Super Stock Coil 8140 at Advance Auto Parts
I was also going to use this relay for the switched 12v: Buy Optronics 12VDC 40A Relay A-715 at Advance Auto Parts
I just want to make sure these are the correct parts, and that im not going to kill anything trying this... Thanks in advance!
04-26-13, 09:43 PM
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Thats it for the most part. Also get some wire and connectors. Might have issue finding some small enough to fit into the dizzy, I trimmed down some male connectors to fit.
04-27-13, 06:09 AM
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OK, thanks! I bought a dead j109 from another forum member that I'm going to gut for the dizzy connector. What would be a proper size fuse to put in line?
04-27-13, 11:24 AM
#6
Hmm, I'm installing DLIDFIS in my car. Got the Diamond coils in place yesterday. Today will be wiring and J-109 ignitors (because I have them). I won't bother with a relay at this time. The cool part is I won't have to spend a dime to get it up and running. It pays to have spare stock parts around. 
Well, have a good time with your install. I know I will with mine.
Well, have a good time with your install. I know I will with mine.
05-02-13, 08:56 AM
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Got my coils and ignitors mounted last night. Ignitors are mounted to the plate behind the coils. Took me a lot longer than expected to build the brackets, but I think it came out pretty good. I was able to use 2 existing tapped holes on the strut tower that weren't used for anything, so no drilling or welding to the car was needed. Tonight I just have to get it wired up and hopefully everything will fire.
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05-02-13, 07:57 PM
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Success!! Running well and smooth through all rpm's. Not a huge difference power wise over stock, but definitely more smooth idle and seems to be running better overall.
Now for what may be a stupid question... What's the advantage to moving the trailing dizzy connections to the leading positions? Anything else need to be done before doing it, or just unplug and relocate?
Now for what may be a stupid question... What's the advantage to moving the trailing dizzy connections to the leading positions? Anything else need to be done before doing it, or just unplug and relocate?
05-02-13, 10:51 PM
#10
Congrats! I was going to use the threaded holes in mine, but I had access to an older coil holder from a REPU or something which would have located them off center, so I drilled two holes. At first it was ok until I realized the plug wires are really sharply curved (kinda like in your picture) due to length so I drilled two new holes a little lower. Also the coil tops were hitting the extra steel layer of the strut towers. Lowering the assembly solved the problem. I Don't really mind the extra holes as this engine bay was repainted a different color at some point, and it's been through several ridiculous engine swaps already, with more to come.
I believe your brake line would be in the way if you tried to lower your coils, right? The PO pulled the line away so he could paint. Then never bent it back, and neither did I.
Got the coils fully installed. Then made an ignitor plate similar to what I used in PercentSevenC's car. I put it up where the two or three relays are in the upper left of your picture. I also had a dead ignitor which I gutted. Never gut a working ignitor! Lastly I ran the wires and had a spare set of J-109 T-shaped connectors with boots kicking around, which I used to give it the stock look.
So far only got to test for spark but couldn't run the engine for lack of an intake. I might throw one on tomorrow. It also still needs an FPR plumbed. Hmm, I really should be taking pictures. Don't worry, I won't clutter your thread with them.
I believe your brake line would be in the way if you tried to lower your coils, right? The PO pulled the line away so he could paint. Then never bent it back, and neither did I.
Got the coils fully installed. Then made an ignitor plate similar to what I used in PercentSevenC's car. I put it up where the two or three relays are in the upper left of your picture. I also had a dead ignitor which I gutted. Never gut a working ignitor! Lastly I ran the wires and had a spare set of J-109 T-shaped connectors with boots kicking around, which I used to give it the stock look.
So far only got to test for spark but couldn't run the engine for lack of an intake. I might throw one on tomorrow. It also still needs an FPR plumbed. Hmm, I really should be taking pictures. Don't worry, I won't clutter your thread with them.
05-03-13, 08:08 AM
#11
Waffles - hmmm good
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Success!! Running well and smooth through all rpm's. Not a huge difference power wise over stock, but definitely more smooth idle and seems to be running better overall.
Now for what may be a stupid question... What's the advantage to moving the trailing dizzy connections to the leading positions? Anything else need to be done before doing it, or just unplug and relocate?
Now for what may be a stupid question... What's the advantage to moving the trailing dizzy connections to the leading positions? Anything else need to be done before doing it, or just unplug and relocate?
to look at the rotor and visualize the way the signal flows to understand it.
05-03-13, 05:28 PM
#12
Just a word of caution, when using trailing plus dual hei dlis, a 50 amp alternator is not sufficient... I had to put in a gm cs130 alternator to power both of those... To me these modules seem inefficient pull 5-10 amps a piece and putting off the majority of that energy as heat... The new MSD unit uses .77 amp per 1000 rpm... The hei system does work flawlessly but is quite hungry...
Ps: It might also be worth noting that I was using ford square coils...
Ps: It might also be worth noting that I was using ford square coils...
Last edited by Xamnglc; 05-03-13 at 05:41 PM.
05-03-13, 08:06 PM
#13
Just a word of caution, when using trailing plus dual hei dlis, a 50 amp alternator is not sufficient... I had to put in a gm cs130 alternator to power both of those... To me these modules seem inefficient pull 5-10 amps a piece and putting off the majority of that energy as heat... The new MSD unit uses .77 amp per 1000 rpm... The hei system does work flawlessly but is quite hungry...
Ps: It might also be worth noting that I was using ford square coils...
Ps: It might also be worth noting that I was using ford square coils...
05-05-13, 12:13 AM
#17
My DLIDFIS setup worked perfectly! I kinda figured it would, but you know it's always good to test your work. Even broke out the timing light and it was spot-on (meaning I got the red and green wires on right!)
Oh and speaking of heating up the heat sink the ignitors are installed on, yes it does get hot, but not any hotter than the hot dizzy they were intended to be installed on, in a hot engine, which is right next to a hot waterpump and constantly bathed in hot air from the radiator.
Oh and I took it up to 7k and obviously there were no voltage drop issues or anything weird like that.
Oh and speaking of heating up the heat sink the ignitors are installed on, yes it does get hot, but not any hotter than the hot dizzy they were intended to be installed on, in a hot engine, which is right next to a hot waterpump and constantly bathed in hot air from the radiator.
Oh and I took it up to 7k and obviously there were no voltage drop issues or anything weird like that.
05-05-13, 06:32 AM
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Awesome! Good to hear Jeff20B! Mine actually worked the first time too, even though I didn't think it did. I'm a little embarrassed to say, the first time I tried to fire mine up all it did was crank over and sputter a few times. I was in such a hurry to see if it worked that no forgot to pull the choke... After checking all of my connections and making sure everything was well grounded a couple of times, I was about to give up and change it all back. Then I looked down at the choke.... Pulled it and it fired right up. Man I felt like an idiot!! Lol.
05-05-13, 08:50 AM
#19
That's one of those classic stories, like accidentally installing the trailing plug wires on the opposite plugs. Did that once and never did it again. 
The funny thing is it works fine at idle (without vacuum advance hooked up) but as soon as you rev it or drive it, the mechanical advance causes it to spark into incoming air/fuel mixture and you can guess how it runs when it does that.
The funny thing is it works fine at idle (without vacuum advance hooked up) but as soon as you rev it or drive it, the mechanical advance causes it to spark into incoming air/fuel mixture and you can guess how it runs when it does that.
