Didnt leave well enough alone... lots of starting issues now
08-24-07, 01:36 PM
#27
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08-24-07, 01:44 PM
#28
That bolt is tightened down with a very strong torque and it needs to be - I wouldn't take it off unless you have to. And if you do be sure to mark the position of the pulley timing marks so that you can put it back on the same way and not lose your timing. And read about it in the FSM or hayne's manual first.
If you are going to get it loose, put the car in low gear, set the emergency brake and have someone step hard on the brakes to keep the engine from turning over when you loosen the bolt. It's has normal threading so you need to turn it counterclockwise to loosen (away from you if you are on the driver's side). Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and a 2-3 foot piece of pipe or schedule 40 PVC to slip over the ratchet handle to provide grip and leverage.
When you put the bolt back in there are some special tricks that you should look up, it needs lock tight, a sealant to prevent vacuum leaks and a very high torque setting.
These are not professional instructions, just what worked for me one time when I got curious about that bolt.
And if this is all just for the sake of changing that pulley, you might want to have a closer look to see if it really needs it.
Good luck!
Ray
If you are going to get it loose, put the car in low gear, set the emergency brake and have someone step hard on the brakes to keep the engine from turning over when you loosen the bolt. It's has normal threading so you need to turn it counterclockwise to loosen (away from you if you are on the driver's side). Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and a 2-3 foot piece of pipe or schedule 40 PVC to slip over the ratchet handle to provide grip and leverage.
When you put the bolt back in there are some special tricks that you should look up, it needs lock tight, a sealant to prevent vacuum leaks and a very high torque setting.
These are not professional instructions, just what worked for me one time when I got curious about that bolt.
And if this is all just for the sake of changing that pulley, you might want to have a closer look to see if it really needs it.
Good luck!
Ray
08-24-07, 01:52 PM
#29
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That bolt is tightened down with a very strong torque and it needs to be - I wouldn't take it off unless you have to. And if you do be sure to mark the position of the pulley timing marks so that you can put it back on the same way and not lose your timing. And read about it in the FSM or hayne's manual first.
If you are going to get it loose, put the car in low gear, set the emergency brake and have someone step hard on the brakes to keep the engine from turning over when you loosen the bolt. It's has normal threading so you need to turn it counterclockwise to loosen (away from you if you are on the driver's side). Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and a 2-3 foot piece of pipe or schedule 40 PVC to slip over the ratchet handle to provide grip and leverage.
When you put the bolt back in there are some special tricks that you should look up, it needs lock tight, a sealant to prevent vacuum leaks and a very high torque setting.
These are not professional instructions, just what worked for me one time when I got curious about that bolt.
And if this is all just for the sake of changing that pulley, you might want to have a closer look to see if it really needs it.
Good luck!
Ray
If you are going to get it loose, put the car in low gear, set the emergency brake and have someone step hard on the brakes to keep the engine from turning over when you loosen the bolt. It's has normal threading so you need to turn it counterclockwise to loosen (away from you if you are on the driver's side). Use a 1/2" drive ratchet and a 2-3 foot piece of pipe or schedule 40 PVC to slip over the ratchet handle to provide grip and leverage.
When you put the bolt back in there are some special tricks that you should look up, it needs lock tight, a sealant to prevent vacuum leaks and a very high torque setting.
These are not professional instructions, just what worked for me one time when I got curious about that bolt.
And if this is all just for the sake of changing that pulley, you might want to have a closer look to see if it really needs it.
Good luck!
Ray
08-24-07, 05:09 PM
#30
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If the motor doesn't spin easily with the 17 mm nut on the pulley. You may want to remove the starter and try to spin it again it could possibly be locked up, engaged.
08-24-07, 06:08 PM
#31
Good, you want to loosen the motor, not the eshaft bolt. That makes more sense. The post above has a good suggestion, it is possible your starter is binding and keeping it from turning over.
The engine spins clockwise when looking at the engine from the front, so put the wrench on the 19 mm bolt and pull toward you when you from the driver's side. Try to spin it in the direction of rotation first, if that doesn't work go the other way, it can spin in both directions.
Again, a three foot pipe on the ratchet handle will give you lots of leverage. But if it doesn't budge fairly easily, I'd pull the starter first like db says. It is possible that it's binding up the flywheel.
The engine spins clockwise when looking at the engine from the front, so put the wrench on the 19 mm bolt and pull toward you when you from the driver's side. Try to spin it in the direction of rotation first, if that doesn't work go the other way, it can spin in both directions.
Again, a three foot pipe on the ratchet handle will give you lots of leverage. But if it doesn't budge fairly easily, I'd pull the starter first like db says. It is possible that it's binding up the flywheel.
Last edited by ray green; 08-24-07 at 06:15 PM.
08-25-07, 01:04 PM
#32
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Good, you want to loosen the motor, not the eshaft bolt. That makes more sense. The post above has a good suggestion, it is possible your starter is binding and keeping it from turning over.
The engine spins clockwise when looking at the engine from the front, so put the wrench on the 19 mm bolt and pull toward you when you from the driver's side. Try to spin it in the direction of rotation first, if that doesn't work go the other way, it can spin in both directions.
Again, a three foot pipe on the ratchet handle will give you lots of leverage. But if it doesn't budge fairly easily, I'd pull the starter first like db says. It is possible that it's binding up the flywheel.
The engine spins clockwise when looking at the engine from the front, so put the wrench on the 19 mm bolt and pull toward you when you from the driver's side. Try to spin it in the direction of rotation first, if that doesn't work go the other way, it can spin in both directions.
Again, a three foot pipe on the ratchet handle will give you lots of leverage. But if it doesn't budge fairly easily, I'd pull the starter first like db says. It is possible that it's binding up the flywheel.
08-25-07, 02:08 PM
#33
That is probably the starter solenoid trying to engage and unengage. It can't turn the engine over because:
A. It's jammed or not working
B. Your engine is jammed or not working
I'm betting on the starter, only because it's cheaper. Take it out, it's a good learning experience and you can clean things up down there, chances are the wires and stuff are all covered in grease. Once it's out, take a 3/8 ratchet with a 19 mm socket and put it on your Eshaft bolt, the engine should turn over which means your starter is bad.
I'm betting on the starter, I've been driving these cars for years and never had an engine seize, though I worried about it a time or two.
Oh yeah, if you want to sell it, let me know.
Ray
A. It's jammed or not working
B. Your engine is jammed or not working
I'm betting on the starter, only because it's cheaper. Take it out, it's a good learning experience and you can clean things up down there, chances are the wires and stuff are all covered in grease. Once it's out, take a 3/8 ratchet with a 19 mm socket and put it on your Eshaft bolt, the engine should turn over which means your starter is bad.
I'm betting on the starter, I've been driving these cars for years and never had an engine seize, though I worried about it a time or two.
Oh yeah, if you want to sell it, let me know.
Ray
08-25-07, 02:38 PM
#34
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I'll take the starter out today if the rain continues to NOT fall, if I can at least get it running then the rebuild might be easier for whoever I'd be passing it along to. How much does a decent replacement cost?
Also, I probably wouldn't sell the car at this point (attached to the little bugger, and there's still hope I can get it working well), but what would you pay for it? It seems I got shafted on the initial purchase at $800.
Also, I probably wouldn't sell the car at this point (attached to the little bugger, and there's still hope I can get it working well), but what would you pay for it? It seems I got shafted on the initial purchase at $800.
08-27-07, 02:57 AM
#38
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i looked through all the posts and since no one has said this and i didn't know if you knew or not but if your trying to turn the eshaft make sure the car is in neutral and not in gear
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