I have torqued this **** out of the brass fittings, and still getting a small leak out of at least one. Another user had the same problem and on top of torquing the **** out of the fittings, he used teflon tape. However, I know my Carter fuel pump's instructions advise against the use of teflon tape on the brass fittings, as they are "dry-seal". I imagine is the same for the FPR. Anybody else has had this problem and how did you solve it? Did anybody else use teflon tape?

 

Use a fuel-proof liquid sealer like Loc-tite. No leaks and no chance of damaging the pump or regulator like if you use teflon tape.

 

no teplon tape but the pipe dope with teflon. no leaks. but be sure not to put any pipe dope on the first 2 threads. another safety measure to prevent blockage inside the line as well as the FPR and carb itself.

 

agree with the liquid pipe sealant, used it on my holley fpm regulator with absolutely NO problems at all. Good luck

 

Ok. I think I'll follow your advice Wacko.

Now, what about the fuel pump itself? I have not put the pump online yet so I don't know if it'll leak, but should it leak, should I do the same?

 

Do the same if you have a leak..

 

Yes, do the same. For the F/P, there is only one way to install a carter pump. My old pump was located behind the driver side fender wall AND I used steel braided lines for safety issue.

 

i had that fpr recently on my old setup. i just used rtv. worked perfectly.

 

Thanks for the replies and the data guys. Wacko, I was thinking of putting the pump in the rail, where the cut valve is. Isn't that an alternative to the driver side fender?

 

The frame rail where it starts to curve up over the diff is the ideal spot.

 

Hmm- I used a small amount of teflon tape (1 wrap) on the the npt threads. Sounds like i'm glad I put an in-line filter between the fpr and the carb!

With the npt tapered threads, if you torque them down tight enough, they should not leak period (at least that's how I learned). However- I would recommend getting a standard, el-cheapo wix in-line fuel filter like I ran for a bit of time after the install. I found bits of metal shavings in my carbs fuel bowl after I installed the FPR and pump. They were fresh shavings. I suspect they came from the FPR after the threads were 'cut' by the brass fittings. The filter was like $3.00 bucks.

I think soft brass NPT fittings were meant for hard steel pipes, not the soft zinc stuff that the Holley FPR's are made of, so the brass may actually 'cut' some of the thread material, being a harder metal, that is. At least that's my theory.

 

You can mount it there too. hey if you need tools, feel free to stop by.

 

I had the same problem when I upgraded my fuel system. My Holley FPR leaked even when I torqued the fittings in a vise. I put one layer of teflon tape at the base of the threads and made sure that NONE was hanging over the edge of the fitting. When I torqued it back up, no more leaks. My Carter pump was leak-free without any tape or sealant. I did the upgrade about 6 months ago and havent had any problems.

 

^ Yup- same here.

 

Ok but to what degree did you have to torque the fittings in the pump to have it leak free without any tape or sealant?

 

I don't recall the size wrench, off the top of my head, but I used a closed end box)wrench, 6 sided. Put the fpr in a vise (wrapped with a shop cloth).
I put that biatch on there REALLLY tight. Like I said, when I thought I had it tight the first time- I swear I managed like 1 1/2 to 2 more turns out of it.

I thought I might break the FPR, but I did not. As a matter of fact- the teflon tape bunched up towards the rear of the fitting, any way. These NPT's are tapered (I believe).. so the more you torque it, the tighter the seal.

Look at the picture you put on where your fitting are seated.. Go back and look at mine. That'll tell you. They only have maybe 2 visible threads vs. your 4+.

 

I was talking about the pump, not the FPR, but thanks.

Yeah I see the difference. My photo is before I torqued the **** out of it though. I used two wrenches, the big one holding the body of the regulator, and the other one at the fitting. You can torque a lot like that. I pretty much got them to look like yours. But with no teflon, there was still a small leak. So I had to unscrew everything and tonight will try it again with some teflon pipe dope.

 

Ohh. my bad *duh*. You should'nt have any probs with the pump. Make sure you have good hose clamps.

The only thing I did'nt like about the holley and carter pumps were that they are exposed to the elements. The weber pump fits in the stock location, so everything is protected.

I guess I would run braided line too if I were using a Carter or Holley (and maybe protect the pump somewhat).

Good luck.

 

Ok thanks. I have the clamps that came with the pump.

I don't quite see the braided line as a necessity, but we'll see.

 

I had exactly the same problem. Torque harder! It worked for me. I had my mechanic torque the **** out of them because I couldn't do it hard enough. Methinks he probably used an impact wrench.

Same regulator, same fittings, same leak... leak solved with brute force. I thought it was because I didn't use the right brass fittings.. I think it's because they're threaded *slightly* differently than they're supposed to be (the threads on the regulator.. since so many people have the problem)

Jon

 

Just do it right and use a liquid sealer! It makes it so much easier especially when using 90* fittings. Otherwise it's hard to get them pointed the right way without leaks or torquing the **** out of it. A 90* degree fitting really comes in handy when installing the pump as it lets you have the inlet line tucked up into the body.

 

Pipe threads love a sealant. Overtorquing may work, but its not the right way to do it, and can lead to a cracked fitting if you really go too far. Being as the FPR and FP body are aluminum, and subjected to an expansion load, guess which will crack first? The only reason NOT to ues teflon tape it that if your not careful, the little stringies from the tape will get sucked in and cause a problem. If you skip the first few threads, and make sure theres not little stringies hanging out to get caught into the system, youll be fine. Ive done a few cars and teflon tape is cleaner to use and Ive never had a problem. Its all in the quality of the work guys.

 

Well, looks like we have a winner. I used Real-tuff teflon paste thread sealant, torque the **** out of the fittings again, and voila! no leaks at all. This is what is looks like now:

 

Bravo!!

 

Thanks for all the advices. Now to 1) find out why is the guage not reading any pressure, 2) put the fuel pump online and 3) tune it.