Diagnosing my A/C...
#1
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Location: Huntsville, Alabama / Atlanta, Georgia
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Diagnosing my A/C...
Well... I finally got some time this weekend and one of my goals is to fix my A/C. The clutch doesn't engage when I flip the switch inside. I took the green wire and connected it to the positive--the clutch engages and it turns just fine. I tried this with the car on but the air did not get cooler (with the A/C switches on and set to max inside the car). Next thing I did was check level of freon--just fine--no bubbles and I can see the freon moving along. So, I'm guessing at this point I have a bad relay... but why didn't it get cooler when I manually engaged the clutch? And where can I get a relay to replace the bad one?
Thanks
FS
Thanks
FS
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
A/C's are a hassle. Your compressor could still be malfunctioning, your condensor could be blocked, your orifice tube/expansion valve malfunctioning, or the door to your heater/AC blower isn't pulling air through your evaporator. A/C diagnosticians earn their money.
Check it out.
http://www.autosite.com/garage/subsy...rc01.asp#Chap1
jerij
Check it out.
http://www.autosite.com/garage/subsy...rc01.asp#Chap1
jerij
#5
Ok, here's the scoop on your A/C. I just replaced mine last year. If the clutch isn't engaging when you turn it on, it's because you have no pressure in the A/C system. The A/C has a pressure gauge, if the freon leaks out, it won't engage the pump.
The reason for this, is that the freon contains the oil lubircant. When the freon leaks out so does the oil. The compressor won't engage any more so it doesn't burn up.
So, now you know you have no charge. You need to take your care down and have it checked for leaks. You have a 90% chance that your compressor is bad.
If it is, you'll nbeed to replace it. They are about 200$. Then you'll want to go to R134a (so much cheaper). With the fitting adaptors, the labor to evacuate and charge the system and a new condensor, it was about $400.00 total. Don't forget you'll need to replace the seals in the compressor and the condensor with new "green" seals. If you don't the R134a will eat them out and you'll be screwed.
The reason for this, is that the freon contains the oil lubircant. When the freon leaks out so does the oil. The compressor won't engage any more so it doesn't burn up.
So, now you know you have no charge. You need to take your care down and have it checked for leaks. You have a 90% chance that your compressor is bad.
If it is, you'll nbeed to replace it. They are about 200$. Then you'll want to go to R134a (so much cheaper). With the fitting adaptors, the labor to evacuate and charge the system and a new condensor, it was about $400.00 total. Don't forget you'll need to replace the seals in the compressor and the condensor with new "green" seals. If you don't the R134a will eat them out and you'll be screwed.
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