i have and 84 gsl and i replaced the rutsy old slave cylinder and at first it wold go fine then it started slipping more and more and now its in the street because it wont go up my drive or move any where for that matter its like the clutch doesnt even exist or i lost all my gears. i did drive it with the old leaky slave but only until it started slipping more than was safe my best guess is i toasted my clutch really bad trying to move it(i had to go up to red line to get it to move) or i put the slave in wrong but it feels better than ever, its so weird. any thoughts on whats wrong?i need to get it in my drive soon. any help would be great. (if i cant get it to move i got to sell it and i dont even wanna think about that, as its in great condition only 30k miles)

 

I replaced my clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and rubber line all at the same time, so I probably won't be much help in diagnosing your problem...

Does sound like you may need a new clutch if it was slipping with the old slave cylinder. I don't know if the rod on the master could be adjusted far enough to always keep pressure on the slave or not. It might also be possible for the master to have gunk or rust in it and it's not letting pressure off the slave. Most of the posts that I read before I changed mine out recommended replacing the master, salve and rubber hose at the same time.

Good luck - David

 

it might be the master becuse if they age the sme then it would most likely have rust in it also, but it looks almost new and there is no signs of leaking on the inside. If the clutch is bad it still should keep me from starting it in gear
and atlest move one inch on its own, unless its realy realy reeeally bad but i have no clue why it would be so bad ohter than age.

 

Sounds like you need to replace your Clutch master also but that is not your problem. Your describing the syptoms of a burnt out clutch disc. It's time to replace all the clutch componnents along with resurfacing your flywheel. And putting a new clutch in is not a major ordeal. Takes a good area to work in, some jack stands, a jack, some basic tools,etc.....

 

well i will have to find a way to move up my steep drive to work on it. and find the monery to buy a new clutch kit and master cylinder looks like thats my christmas present along with a speeding ticket . at least im gettin something for my car

 

As Doc said, the clutch is toast. Once that is installed, and you can find an oem replacement at the local parts store for around 150, you will need to replace the master. I would replace the soft clutch line with an SS one from Mazdatrix or Racing Beat. That way the entire clutch hydraulics is new and should give many more years of trouble free service. When bleeding the clutch, make sure all of the old fluid is completely flushed out and only clean fresh fluid is coming out of the bleeder.

 

yep ur clutch is toast the SAME EXACT thing happened to me a coupole weeks ago....i got the car and the slave was bad so we replaced it thinking thats what was makin it slip..well thats wasnt the case and we took it for a drive and it was still slipping and it got worse and worse till we couldent go any more......we also had to take it to about 6k rpms to get going again after it realllllly strated slippin.....finally we had to get towed home.......so just eplace ur clutch and go from there

 

try adjusting the clutch pedal? does it have any play or is it tight? just a thought.

 

^ And I'll state it again. Adjusting the clutch pedal on our cars does nothing. And the key word in the diagnosis is "Slippage". Slippage is caused by one thing, " Bad or contaminated" clutch lining.

 

^^^^^ noted

 

Actually if you adjust the pedal, you can raise the engagement point, mine was extremely low and I thought my clutch was shot then PeeJay adjusted the nut on the rear of the pedal and its been fine for the past 25,000 miles.

 

Adjust the pedal like aussie did. Also you might want to think about a new clutch.

All the Slave cylinder does it push the clutch outward from the engine to disengage. If the master was or slave in that hand were messed up the car would stay in gear. Or the pedal would stay to the ground too due to the spring.

 

Get a clue guys, he redlined the engine just to move the car. No amount of pedal adjustment will fix a glazed clutch disc. He also states in his 1st post that it felt better than ever after he replaced his slave.

Nicky, I'm still trying to figure out what you said, most of it makes no sense at all. The slave does not "push the the clutch outward from the engine to disengage".

The slave pushes on the rod, which pushes on the clutch fork, which pushes the throw out bearing against the fingers of the pressure plate. Pushing on the pp fingers releases the clamping pressue the pp exerts on the clutch disc.

You need to get your mechanical understanding and facts straight, then learn to post it in a coherrent manner. Go to bed jr.

 

my pedal adjustment is already as far out as it can go. it deffinatly the clutch thanx for the help anyone want to help push it up my drive way jk

 

I'm not clear on what's happening. I don't understand if the clutch is always engaged (and the gears grind when one tries to engage them), or if the clutch is totally slipping, and/or never touching the clutch. There are different solutions for each. If it never disengages and the gears grind, then you need a new master and flexihose and some serious hydraulic bleeding. Otherwise you have to drop the xmission and replace at least the pressure plate and probably the TO bearing, pilot bearing and clutch plate.