The Last Mahadocon

iTrader: (6)

1980 carbed 7. haha, no joke. despite my already our rageous hydrocarbons (******* 1500 to be exzact!!!) the alcohol somehow managed to make it go to fin 1800 . what the hell!!! even weider is the fact that if i actually put all the hoses on running to the air pump, the car goes up in a ******* ginormas cloud of smoke. only when the air pump is connected though. what the hell! any advice? it seems to me like the air pump is pressureizing the system and forceing oil out every crevice. no clue whats goin on.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Blocked Cats?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Whats the background of this car? When is the last time the emissions equipment was hooked up? If its been a while its likely the ACV and other assorted crap has gotton plugged up and is now not working like it should. As Ray said, how are the cats on there? If you've been running around with the air pump not hooked up then its more than likely shot to hell. Those numbers are horrendous, even with just a presilencer on my car the HC's were around 650....
the alcohol trick is just that a trick, you'd be better off just making sure everything is in working order. Always worked for me.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

smog pump seals go bad especially if the ports are not sealed when hoses removed.

steve84GS TII

Alcohol is just to get you that little edge,you cant drop 1500PPM with just alky......maybe 50PPM or so, if your boarderline.

1500PPM indicates complete smog system failure.You have no catlylizing going on and probably a bunk air injection system (the primary smog control device which works in tandem with the nuclear reactor of the 79-80 model cars.)
There is a lot of mess to the air injection system,ACV,solenoids and thermal reactor air management and cooling system.Its not just,"pump air into exhaust" when the engine is running.There are all kinds of ways the system changes its output depending on load,RPMs and temp.The thermal reactors are known to literally melt down and collapse after a while,due to the extreme heat they endure and the fact that after some 25 years,the air injection systems and associated plumbing has deteriorated with use.

The Last Mahadocon

iTrader: (6)

alright so i guess im gonna go with take all the acv crap off, clean the hell out of it, get new seals where needed? then a new smog pump and cat, correct? i just had a full turbo back system put on my fc wiht a high flow cat, can i take that off and just weld a flange before the cat for the air pump? .... it didn't come with the flange/. thanks for the help guys, i also just finished painting it today (bout time, wasn't cheap and took me like three months worth of free time), ill put some before and after pics up tomorrow.

RXDad

iTrader: (2)

1980 has a thermal reactor instead of cats. Reactor or heat exchanger could have collapsed. Again, check air pump, ACV, air piping, etc. If the reactor/heat exchanger is bad, you would probably be best to see if you can find a manifold/cat off of a later model car.

BTW, 1200 to 1500 ppm is about right for 1979-80 with non functioning reactor.

RXDad

KillaKitiie

Just go down to a local junkyard and find all the thing's you need! Smog pump, ACV,and assorted things wont be uncommon there!

Then just go down to a local shop and have a good cat welded on.

steve84GS TII

If your state isnt too pickey about smog,then do yourself a favor and simplify the smog gear.
Dropping the thermal reactor system will save you the hassel of dealing with an obsolete smog control system that was only used for 2 years on the RX-7.Youll also drop about 60lbs off the car,even after bolting up a stock 81-85 manifold and cats.Youll have to swap everything from an 81-85,but its pretty simple remove and replace type work.

In CA,you'd have to re-certify the car as a "later model engine swap",but many other states just care whether or not the numbers are within spec.