The routing and description you give is generally correct, however there is usually a simple little vent valve built in to the thermostat to let air locks to vent thro' the 'stat when cold. If you squeeze the hoses when cold you will hear this little vent valve 'ticking' as you squeeze.
To get rid of air locks on the 12A RX7 when refilling the rad:-
Have the heater valve open (on Hot).
Fill gently until coolant comes right up to the bottom of the rad filler neck and starts to flow down into the expansion bottle.
'Squidge' the hoses several times to make sure air goes up to the top of the rad.
There should be some coolant in the expansion bottle, up to 'max' mark.
Put rad cap on and go for a run - no more than a few minutes. (Don't let it get anywhere near up to temperature). Stop and now be very careful with the rad cap (boiling coolant can spray out easily). Slowly remove cap with a protective cloth and top up the level in the rad.
Drive around a bit and when back home first let the system cool down. Then repeat the process if you still have air in.
Once you've got it out it should stay air lock free. Never let the expansion bottle drop below 'min' level when the engine is cold.

 

When filling coolant in my car, I try to to make sure that the rad. cap is the highest point. In your case, I would have the car "uphill". It makes it easier to get the air out. Then when you level it out again, check the level.

 

Well it seems to be pretty much official, I think it worked, I let the car sit over night , turned it on and no smoke, I took it for a ride, no smoke, and turned it on several times, no smoke, rev it at while parked, you get the point...
Now my leak must have been a small one I believe. I will be certain after monitoring it for awhile, Like I said before, I had very little smoke, and not to often on my car to begin with. So iwith time I will be able to tell for sure.
Now a concern I have, since I have done this Temp O-ring fix, do I have to baby my car....
Thanks for the refilling the cooling system tips. Going outside right now to do it......
Thanks eveyone for your help.............
Peace
Cruz

 

Only drain the cooling system when it is cold! If you drain it when hot you may seriously damage the engine.

To get the air out of the system, start with a cold engine. remove the radcap. Turn on the heater. Start the engine and carefully observe the coolant level as seen thru the neck of the radiator. When the level drops add coolant thru the radiator neck. You can help by rocking the car while you are standing bored looking at the radiator neck. the bubbles in the system will seek the high point and that will be your radiator neck. Be patient. Observe your temp gauge and let the car run at idle for a few minutes while you are checking the coolant level. Add coolant (or water) as you observe the coolant level.

 

Once the temp coolant leak fix takes you don't have to 'baby' the car, i.e., drive slowly and don't accelerate, but you do have to 'baby' your car by checking every week to make sure the leak fix is still holding. Just go out every monday morning when the engine is cold, lift the hood, unscrew the radcap and make sure you hear a nice 'pffttt' indicating that the cooling system is still sealed. Check the coolant level. If you didn't hear a 'pfftt', repeat the test tuesday morning.

While you're at it, check the oil level, the clutch fluid level and the brake fluid level. You might wanna check the windshield washer level, too.

You want your rotary engine to operate at a consistent temperature, thus minimizing superfluous expansions and contractions of engine parts. Excessive expansions and contractions cause increased wear and provide more opportunities for failure. That's also why you want to make sure you have a proper (i.e., mazda OEM) thermostat installed.

 

I got that psst this morning so I am happy, what do you guys think,
my se take 2.5 gallons of coolant, rite now I have 1 gallon of 50/50 and a gallon and a hlf of water . I ran the car all day today and it remaned cool, I live in florida so it gets hot... Should I leave it alone or should I add more pure anti-freeze to the system..

 

My UK mix for year round is 40% Antifreeze. A product called 'Bluecol'.
It's done me proud for 45 years.
Also I don't have a clue what Florida winters are like for low temperatures, but you have to consider corrosion with 'raw water' in the system i. e. antifreeze is also a corrosion inhibitor. I change coolant every 2 (or, if I'm lazy,3) years.
Since it's in there now, what about running as you are through the summer and putting fresh in for the winter?

 

About half and half is optimum for both hot and cold climates. But if you have to topup a little plain water won't hurt.

Too much coolant actually starts to reduce the protection of the coolant.

As long as you get that little 'pfft' when you crack the radcap on a cold engine you are Golden!