Dashboard removal. Metal substructure or not?
#1
Right near Malloy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 511 Likes
on
346 Posts
Dashboard removal. Metal substructure or not?
I want to remove my dash. Should I remove the metal substructure or not? Which is easier? Do I need to pull the windshield to do either?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia, Melbourne
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no you don't have to remove the windsheld.
just take of ALL plastic parts around the dash, like ceter concole, instument pannel, metal window dimister strip along the window etc
then if u look from under you will see a fair few gold nuts. undo them all as well as all the bolts along the winshield and it should come out.
just take of ALL plastic parts around the dash, like ceter concole, instument pannel, metal window dimister strip along the window etc
then if u look from under you will see a fair few gold nuts. undo them all as well as all the bolts along the winshield and it should come out.
#3
Driven a turbo FB lately?
iTrader: (1)
No windshield removal neccessary..
You can pul the dash either way... Depends on how much work you have to do to it...
I got a lot experience with the 79-83 dashes. Only pulled one 84-85 one off and i did it entire dash structure (which I think is the only way?)
On the 79-83, to remove all of it at once , you need to remove steering wheel, cluster etc, remove 2 10mm bolts at each end of the dash, 3 across the top by the windshield, and 2 down by the console... Theres a couple of big harnesses you have to disconnect. and I think Im missing a few small things like the AC drain hose and ****.. But anyways, I think its about the same amount of work either way.
You can pul the dash either way... Depends on how much work you have to do to it...
I got a lot experience with the 79-83 dashes. Only pulled one 84-85 one off and i did it entire dash structure (which I think is the only way?)
On the 79-83, to remove all of it at once , you need to remove steering wheel, cluster etc, remove 2 10mm bolts at each end of the dash, 3 across the top by the windshield, and 2 down by the console... Theres a couple of big harnesses you have to disconnect. and I think Im missing a few small things like the AC drain hose and ****.. But anyways, I think its about the same amount of work either way.
#5
Driven a turbo FB lately?
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by djmickyg
no you don't have to remove the windsheld.
just take of ALL plastic parts around the dash, like ceter concole, instument pannel, metal window dimister strip along the window etc
then if u look from under you will see a fair few gold nuts. undo them all as well as all the bolts along the winshield and it should come out.
no you don't have to remove the windsheld.
just take of ALL plastic parts around the dash, like ceter concole, instument pannel, metal window dimister strip along the window etc
then if u look from under you will see a fair few gold nuts. undo them all as well as all the bolts along the winshield and it should come out.
#7
Right near Malloy
Thread Starter
iTrader: (28)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Posts: 7,841
Received 511 Likes
on
346 Posts
I realized, I shoulda said this before because most of us don't check profiles for this sort of thing... (I usually forget that it's there.)
It's a 1985.
It's a 1985.
Trending Topics
#8
Full Member
It'll all come out in one piece. I just did it on my '85 a few weeks ago. Might want to cover or remove the parking brake handle if possible, I chewed mine up a little bit while wrestling with the dash and it's hard not too. Having the seats out would of made life easier as well. There are tons of screws and to keep track of them all and where they went I'd remove a part, then wrap the screws for that part in masking tape and label the tape so I know where those screws go. There are three bolts underneath the plastic windshield vents, two bolts on either side near the door jam, two bolts on either side of the metal bracket behind the stereo, two bolts holding the steering column to the dash structure (fairly long) and the two screws that attach the dash structure to the center console (beneath the power window switches), and thats only the screws that secure the dash into the car. Good luck.
#9
Driven a turbo FB lately?
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Pele
I realized, I shoulda said this before because most of us don't check profiles for this sort of thing... (I usually forget that it's there.)
It's a 1985.
I realized, I shoulda said this before because most of us don't check profiles for this sort of thing... (I usually forget that it's there.)
It's a 1985.
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by MIKE-P-28
You searched Awesome
You searched Awesome
LOTS of info i have already used. But that thread in paticular saved me and my friends *****
Just wanted to say thanks
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
damn!
that would have been a bit better with the pics. We used some different approaches to a few of those areas. Its a race car in training, so old parts not in resellable condition are removed any way possible.
We had the biggest problem with the screws at the dash/windshild area. took us about an hour before we tired to sqeeze a ratchet in there. We didn't have a swival socket, but a 1/4 ratchet did work.
that would have been a bit better with the pics. We used some different approaches to a few of those areas. Its a race car in training, so old parts not in resellable condition are removed any way possible.
We had the biggest problem with the screws at the dash/windshild area. took us about an hour before we tired to sqeeze a ratchet in there. We didn't have a swival socket, but a 1/4 ratchet did work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Turblown
Vendor Classifieds
12
10-17-20 03:25 PM