Gregs

sup
i just got my new filter (14 bucks shipped on ebay)
this is my temp setup till i get my turbo setup (should be within the next month)
thanks goes out to dankus salvage yard racing

-greg

gonzz

Looks good...

1stgen4life

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's nice for 18 bucks. Good luck with your turbo setup!

rotarydankus again

good, excellent , you took the concept a step further, i cheated with the freebie cai. good job

Gregs

hey dankus
im trying to find something to plug the big hole on the "carb hat"
what did you use?

-greg

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

your intake hose looks super mega restrictive.. what's that out of? It kinda looks like one off a TII...

I'd use JC whitney mandrel bent 2.5" U piping to make the whole thing...

Gregs

update
i got the carb hat on and i had to wire the filter and intake hoses so they wouldnt move around and hit ****

Metallic_rock

I still think there are too many bends in that. Get a piece of straight pipe from Meineke or something... just use some of that rubber tubing as a connector.

SS124A

Oh that'd be great, use METAL tubing on a COLD air Intake...

Just what COLD air intakes need, HOT piping..

it looks like the car is still carbed, so the amount of flow doesn't really matter

If i were to do this I would use large diameter radiator hose, and use heat to make any bends,

take the hose forward and through the side of the raditator support so the tube end is in front of the radiator..

I would also consider an inline air filter... so you don't have the HUGE filter blocking the radiator.

inittab

You don't really believe that do you?

Wankelguy

How is that a cold air intake when the air is being drawn from inside the engine compartment even closer to the exhaust? I can't see any provision for any ram-effect either.
Maybe I'm missing something here, but I don't see any performance advantage with that setup.

rotarydankus again

that location hes choosen is force fed from the radiater frontal area, that has to be better than the factory setup, i plugged the hole in bonnet with a urethane bushing i got from midas.waapst , u dont really think the tubing construction makes a diff do u? ive checked mine with a thermocoupler, it works exccellent, ive also located my cai filter in front of the rad and have no issues with airflow.
greg you experiment to your hearts content , more dankus to ya!

Wankelguy

If you think that filter is being force-fed, you must be looking at a different picture than I am.

SS124A

No I don't believe it, but i guess i didn't explain my point thoroughly.

How much Air does our stock carbs actually flow? Maybe 320 CFM? think about even a fully modded Nikki, maybe 450 CFM?

Do you really think that "cold air Intake" is really going to increase the air? Maybe, but what use is the air, if it cannot be used.... once air is trapped inside that plenum and not used you risk the chance of causing turbulence before the carb, actually robbing the carb of proper atomization.

I would wager to say that on a DYNO with a fan blowing on the car to simulate air flow across the car, and through the "CAI" you would have serious issues with power delivery, especially coming off power... Like lifting slightly going into a turn... just before downshifting... when you come back on the power, I would predict a stumble.

What is that on top of the carb from?

To be completely honest you'd get much better flow if you were to bore a hole in your firewall just behind the carb leading into the hollow cowl area.. you can then run a PVC or ABS tube from that hole to that CARB Cap (facing backwards) you have. or maybe even run some of that large diameter radiator into that hole and then mount the filter on the end... so the filter would be just to the passenger (US) side of where the cowl panel is.

That would be your best air... Highest pressure, coldest, (not being warmed by the hot engine compartment.

I would do this to my car, but IT rules do not allow it.

As you can see i am with Wankelguy on this one, no COLD air anywhere in the engine compartment..

Coming from someone who is taking a hiatus from Turbo Rotaries to play (again) with the old school, Yes, rotarydankus again, Intake material is very critical..

Think about heatsoak. If you want to retain a metal tube, then wrap coils of copper or aluminum tubing around it and flow CO2 from it...

By the time you do this, you will add more weight than an N/A engine will be able to make up.

Gregs

bump