GavinJuice

I am still having trouble with my idle still i have kind of pinpointed it down to a couple things. When at idle i don't get a smooth idle, i get the known idle "surge" up and down. I also get a high idle which is caused by the Vacuum "Control" Solenoid Valve hanging up for some reason, if i disconnect the green connector at a high idle it drops down to a normal idle (which is too low but i believe that is my idle stop). So high idle and surging at once. From the site Solving GSL-SE Idle Problems, it tells me to cause the idle to hang up, then without any downward pressure to turn the tps screw clockwise until the solenoid cuts out. Well i rev it up to hang up the idle, slowly turn the the screw and i can get it to cut out. I rev it up again and it down the same old thing, so i turn it some more and it cuts out.

The problem i am having is i can't get the screw to be in a position where the solenoid won't engage and be in the "zone" where the tps is properly adjusted. I've tested my tps and my readings are withing the 1k-5k range. I'm not understanding why that Vacuum "Control" Solenoid Valve is hanging up.

Is it possible i have a bad TPS, which is contributing to my surging and high idle at the same time? Any help would be wonderful.

zookeeper

It's possible you have a bad TPS, but the odds are more like 99% that you have a bad vent solenoid valve. Try adjusting your TPS... see https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142695
I had exactly the same problems and adjusting the TPS seemed to help some, but my real problem was the vent solenoid valve... see https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hlight=surging
both by yours truely

RotaryRevn

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GavinJuice

Well i have my tps properly adjusted right now. When i try to get my idle to drop, thus cutting out the (green) valve, THEN i get the loopy idle,usually. I didn't really specify that but it depends on where i set the tps. I'm gonna check the FSM on how they verify the function of the vent/vacuum and green solenoids. Check all 3 just to see. Unless anyone knows how to off hand.

GavinJuice

Also what are the function of the relief and switching solenoid valves on the firewall. I did replace the switching, which is on the right with the breather on top. Could they in any way affect idle if they are related? Just a shot in the dark but it crossed my mind.

Brianhsval

From what I have read and the work I have done on my 85 SE, I have not experienced this problem with the TPS. The TPS adj. is pretty staight forward with the use of the lights or the muli meters. I have noticed though, ( with mine), that with the key on I can hear the click of the TPS when it is set. I have double checked this with the meters to make sure it wasn't just coincidence. Listen closely and hear it click and that should be all there is to it. As for the surging, I would think that zookeeper is right on track. Of course if the TPS is bad then that would be a different monkey all together.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Gavin,

The green solenoid is for the vacuum advance. It should not have the efffect that you say it has unless there is a vacuum leak between the dizzy and the green solenoid. By disconnecting the green connector, you are turning off the solenoid and closing that potential vac leak. It doesn't seem like the leak would be large enough to have that kind of impact on idle. BTW, at idle (properly adjusted, below 1200 rpm) the green connector should be off, so unpluging it shouldn't matter.I would also check to make sure that you have your vacuum lines routed correctly with none disconnected.

If your TPS is adjusting correctly (with the two light setup), then I would suspect that you do have a problem with the vent and vacuum solenoids (assumeing the vac lines are routed correctly, none disconnected). They are easy to check, it is in the FSM. They share a ground wire and the top two terminals in the connector are for the + conection for each of the solenoids. Just power each one separately and you should be able to blow through the corresponding solenoid, disconnect and then it should close (can't blow through it).

The relief and switching solenoids are used for the ACV. They shouldn't have any influence on your idle.

Hope this helps some.

Kent

GavinJuice

Well gsl-se addict i'm sure your right about the under 1200 idle and the green solenoid being off. But this is the problem i am having, it idles at about 1000-1100 and the idle jumps up to about 1300. This ONLY happens when i am trying to adjust my tps to get my idle to drop which it will, eventually. BUT, then my TPS is out of adjustment and the lumpy idle. Like i said before when i turn the screw clockwise enough for it to drop the idle, i rev it back up and then the lumpy idle starts. I can verify the lumpy idle is being caused by the green solenoid because i simply dis-connect it and the lump goes away. I believe i did the same thing with just pulling off the vacuum lines to the dizzy. I also see a spark on the right prong of the connector when i take it off, so i know it's getting power. BUT WHY!!!!

Why it's doing this is my problem and potentially could be caused by the vent/vacuum solenoids. Or maybe even the green solenoid is bad, hell i dunno but i'm going to check it out. I'm gonna check out the vent/vacuum solenoids with the power from the battery, and check the green solenoid by just seeing if it gets power when i hold it above 1200 like you said. I'll see what happens and report back. Keep posting me info people!