FB_drifter_X

i am wanting to start modding my 7 and i am going to start with my exhaust there is an exhaust shop in the town where i live and i a think i want him to put 2.5 from the stock headers back. and i will buy a muffler for the end... is this a good idea? i dont have alot of money otherwise i would go for the rb exhaust or something

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

First of all, when you say stock headers, are you meaning the big cast iron thermal reactor? Secondly, this is probably going to be pretty darn loud if you are just running a straight pipe back to the muffler. Thirdly, if you use cheap components on your exhaust, the rotary is just going to burn them up and spit them out. The heat of the rotary exhaust is no joke. It really will burn up cheap exhaust pieces within a couple of days. So whatever you end up putting under there, make sure it is of good quality. Otherwise you are just going to be doing it right the second time.

Save up your money and buy a used RB header, make your own centerpipe using thick walled steel piping, attach muffler of choice. That is what I would recommend if you want to do this on the cheap. Even a well done budget exhaust should cost AT LEAST $200-250. Any less than that and I'd guess that you are cheaping out and will be sorry later. Save up your money and do her right the first time.

As Ron Popeil says, "You'll really be glad you did! Thanks so much for your time."

Jamie

FB_drifter_X

about how much does a rb header cost used? i would love to get a set of those, and do an exhaust all the way back... is rb the only company that makes exhausts systems for the first gen?

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

I've seen them as low as $100, but I'd say you can usually get one for about $150 used. RB is nice because they use an equal length design between the front and rear rotors. Pacesetter/Monza also makes a header for the first gens, but the problem is the collector that they use. Also, it is not an equal length header.

They just bring the two pipes together and weld the collector over the top of them, but they never grind down the pipes inside after welding! It is very restrictive IMO. It's not hard to fix, it's just very lazy of them.

However, you could get one of these Pacesetters pretty cheap on Ebay, and then just use a die grinder to open up the inside of the collector like it should be. You'll see what I mean if you ever get a look at the collector on one. If you have access to a die grinder or something similar, and are any good with it at all you could easily fix the pacesetter's main problem with the collector.

Even if you got the Pacesetter and ground out the collector like it should be, I still think that you could get some nice gains over the stock thermal reactor. It will save you quite a bit of weight too...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PaceS...2em118Q2el1247

mikewoodkozar

Or, you could try using the search function as this subject has been beaten to death

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Hey, I'm trying to get my post count up here Mike!!!!!! lol

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

ISC racing also makes one. Every thing else is custom.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

You might want to look into this....

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=721431

Be wise though, he's only got four posts. Not saying he's bad, I just like to be positive that I can trust someone before I buy online....

Jamie

FB_drifter_X

thanx for all the input guys!!!!

justint5387

iTrader: (1)

I will have one for sale soon, probably in a month also. I believe there is still chrome on there, it was used for around 5000 miles.

Bptznumba1playa06@sbcglobal.ne

Im gonna have rb headers up for sale as soon as my 12 turbo project starts movin along.