maybe its something simple like
one of the coil wires are in the wrong place
positive/ negitive

mind you i have'nt drivin or worked on my 7 in 7 years
inspection sticker if from "05"

The sound i got was an internal knock untill the wires were corrected.

just my 2 cents

 

heck I am not proud, I'll switch the wires lol

thats what it sounds like .... "a Knock" the audio sucked was more for a similation ... what and when was happening ... under load nothing .... take it down the street and &%@^^#%%# #%%@&*!*!


but keep the ideas coming ... not overly complicated care but I am obviously missing something

 

Oh, that part is accurate, but you can run with vacuum only on the trailing can.

Works really well.

 

you mentioned you have done the DFI mod.. you didnt mention what igniters you are running or how you have them hooked up

if you have one set of igniters wired with reversed polarity then you will get situation where one igniter retards with revs while the other advances

this is a function of the 'zero crossing' trigger point from the Vr pickup


it must be correct for both igniters

you must also be aware that the j109 and the j105 igniters ( s2 and s1 type ) are designed to work with a dizzy pickup vane that works in opposite wave shape to each other
ie.. putting a j105 into a j109 dizzy can have its issues with retard at revs unless you reverse the wiring pickups

 

I ran into an issue like this a few years ago. Turned out that I had somehow (possibly with "assistance" ended up with the ignitors reversed. I discovered this when I disconnected the trailing ignitor, only to discover that I still had trailing spark (but no leading spark).

In that state, it was damned difficult to set the timing without experiencing spark knock. Might be something to take a look at...

Good luck.



.

 

good info, am using S2 ignitors

am going to triple check, I am sure it's something dumb that I am just missing

 

just disconnect the trailing ignitor for the time being while driving the car in the interim while doing tests to the trailings. the car will be fine running leadings only, trailing is to optimize fuel consumption and a very small amount of additional power.

try to keep a load off the engine and using no load revs to check the split, if the split is too far out of whack it can cause detonation which will be hurting the engine(not as dramatic as turbo applications).

additionally be sure you're using the correct non ballast later model ignition coils wired without the ballast resistors. a mixup of the coils may cause the timing to retard and break up under severe loads.