Ok I am so tired of looking at that freaking 85 gs sitting there (has been doing so for 2 years) SO...........

This is what I am doing over the next several weeks....

Finishing the 13B 6 port swap (this time attempting FI instead of carb)
A fellow forum member bought a wrecked FC complete with a running motor (i drove the thing and it runs fine)

Painting the car silver...

installing 5 ways adjustable struts for the front
and cheapo dropzone springs...

Question... When running the s4 ecu and wiring harness..well let me ask this way, how does the "power" ie 12V get to the ECU when i install it, is it a plug and play or a splice and play? Anyone familiar with this swap let me know..

thanks

trevor

 

hornbm did a s5 efi/ecu swap in his old fb
pm him he can help u

 

I have done the motor swap before, just never used the ECU and FI, ANYone have a link, to how to wire it up? thanks gregs pm sent to him...

 

yeah i would consider hornbm a master at s5 efi, even though he had a bad wiring harness and bitched out and put a weber on!

haha you know im playing matt

 

installing 5 ways adjustable struts for the front
and cheapo dropzone springs...


never heard of "dropzone" springs...where can i find info on them?

 

Ive done both and am currently running my complete S5 ECU and EFI.
The S4 was easier because of the non electric OMP,but there was more wiring involved since the S5 incorporates some of the left side harness into the right side.

First off,whether you run a N/A or TII engine,its the same amount of work,so despite the fact Im running a TII engine,this all applies to you........

Right side harness is plug and play.It goes directly from the ECU to the engine and controls all the sensors,injectors,AFM and smog control junk.

You can utilize the stock 1st gen alternator wiring and the wires for the temp and oil pressure/level sensors.Just trim away and seal any wires that arent needed, to clean things up a bit.

Left side harness on a S4 controls the ECU power,fuel pump,CAS and coils.Its incorporated into the dash harness on the FC,so you have to string up a new one.Its about 15 wires.The best way to make this is to use a factory service manual.They have the best diagrams and flow charts to follow.Its really not that hard,you just have to be thorough.Many of the pins on the left side plug will not be needed (PS signal,AC signal,milage sensors,cruise control signal,voltage load signal),so you have to KNOW which ones do what.Thats why a FSM is soooo nice.

The CAS is 4 wires directly to the ECU,easy.
The coils are about 8 wires directly to the ECU,easy.
ECU power on and solenoid rack/injector main power comes through the circuit opening relay and main relay,respectively.About 6 wires,not too bad,just a few extra connections on the way to the ECU,and some larger gauge wire to feed the main relay circuits.The FC main relay and FC fuse box should be installed when you do the swap,itll make things a lot easier.
The fuel pump wiring on a N/A should be easy since there isnt a relay resistor box to wire up like the TII has.I believe N/A just run their pumps full 12V and let the fuel pressure regulator do all the work.
Theres also a wire you run to the starter crank terminal on the solenoid.It tells the ECU when your cranking the starter so it can send power to the fuel pump and pressurize the system.

 

I can't thank you enough, that was exactly what i was looking for..you are my new forum hero!

 

I didnt get no PM!!

I'll explain the stock S5 complete EFI N/A swap process

One of the things different about the S5, is it uses an electric OMP. To mount the electric OMP, you are going to need a GSL-SE front cover (a 12A one will NOT work) Slide the OMP on the front cover and rotate it so one of the bold holes lines up. Mar where the other 2 are and then you are going to need to drill and tap them.

Secondly, there is some minor grinding you are going to have to do so the front cover will clear the water pump and housing. I ground a little off the front cover and quite a bit off the water pump and housing.

I trust you should be able to mount everything else, as that can be found by searching. Thats really the easy part

Now comes the wiring. In the S5 system, you need two harnesses. The first one is the engine bay harness, and it will take two of the 3 plugs available on the ECU. BTW, the ecu actually bolts up where the FB one goes, total drop in!

Anyway, the engine harness does NOT need to be modified at all, leave it alone. Just wire it up to the engine.

The second harness you need is the main power/dash harness. However what we are going to do is strip it down to just whats left for the EFI system. 90% of the harness will be gone when your done

What the dash harness's purpose is for as far as the stock EFI goes, is it provides power to the ECU, gives the start trigger for the ECU, provides the wiring for the ignition coils, and connects to the neutral saftey switch. Also your clutch switch

For the system to work properly, you are going to need a transmission with a neutral switch. All 84-85 trannys should have one.

You are going to need to wire up a starter trigger from the igntion switch to the ECU. You also are going to need to soder a trigger wire for the main relay.

You will also need to use a second gen fusebox. Just clip your stock wires from the fuseable links, and crimp them on to the fusebox.

Also the second gen stock airbox will not fit under the hood so you will need to get a cone filter from k&n or someone. The advantage about the S5 AFM is it is allready a circular opening so you can just strap on a k&n and your good to go. Make sure you put a filter one the Airpump though.

Which reminds me, on the S5 N/A system, you CANNOT remove the air pump. The airpump is what provides the air pressure nessecary to open the aux ports and the vdi. Means ACV must stay too

If you get lost or things dont seem to be running right, you can make a code checker from a LED light. Just attach it to the check engine light output on the ECU, and then ground it... or connect it to power I forget which.

When you are pulling codes, you need to ground a orange wire with a green clip. You also need to do this to set the timing.


All in all..... If I could have done this all over again, I would have never wasted my time with the S5 fuel injection. I had a bad harness that kept giving me a pressure sensor error code, and I never did track down exactly what it was. Keep in mind this wiring is like 16 years old now, it gets quite brittle so be carefull when installing it.

If you havent bought any of this stuff yet, just save yourself the headache and buy a carb. It will make MUCH more power than the fuel injection unless you go standalone with a haltech or something. Anyway good luck, and just shoot me a PM if you need any help

BTW, buy the factory service manual. Youd be insane to try and tacle this without one.

 

I bought aan s4 87 se that was WHACKED in the front.. everything it there.. just have to put my pan and front cover on...

Thanks both of you, this is what i needed.... The wiring scares me but I was an electricians apprentice for 2 years so it is nothing new to me... Thx again

trevor

 

do i need to grind to get the s4 motor in there> The other one fit ok.. that's wierd...

Bumping this thread for more tips, I am putting it all in on sunday

BTW has anyone just used the entire wiring from the s4 in an s2?

thanks