85rotarypower

I cracked my f***ing oil cooler. It was leaking, and I overtightened the top fitting. Now it drips about once every second. I did a search and found that I can tig weld the crack. But I aslo read in another place about a month or so ago that any fix attempted on an oil cooler doesn't work. I need to know if the tig weld method will work or not.

I'm sick of this stupid thing. Its been nothing but problems it seems. First I have problems with the lines and now this. I wish I could just throw it through a wall. At least it would be out of my life that way. F***ing stupid design.

Rx7carl

Calm down. It should be fixable. Take it to a decent shop and get it welded.

BigJim

JB weld all the way

85rotarypower

Sorry guys. I'm just starting to get real pissed off at all the delays I'm having. First I have a non working carb. Then I have no trailing ignition. Then my oil cooler springs a leak and I overtighten the fitting. I'm only a few days from ending my 7 month restoration, and problem after problem pops up. I think you can see why I'm aggrivated.

My dad can tig weld pretty good. He should be able to fix it. I was just asking how long it will hold up though. I was thinking mabey if the tig weld doesn't hold, I can JB weld the whole fitting on. Because of the design of my extended lines, I can actually remove the hose from the fitting, so I could just JB weld the fitting to the oil cooler if the tig weld doesn't hold.

mazda123x5

The reason I fixed mine was price. A new one is big bucks. If the neck is so badly cracked it can't be welded.
A good shop could cut it off, drill and tap a new block
of aluminum and weld that in place. I just had mine repaired and if does not hold that is the next step I
will take. It's still cheaper than a new one.

85rotarypower

Well the weld didn't work. So its on to plan B. If this doesn't work, then nothing is going to fix this. Basically, its like putting a new threaded block on. But like I said, the design of my extended lines allows me to keep the fitting on the oil cooler.

I had to extend my oil cooler lines so I could mount it in front of my rad (I got an almost new 85 rad for cheap). So I had to extend my lines so they would reach the oil cooler. I used oil resistant air hose from where I work and cut the criped part off the old fittings. I then just used two hose clamps on each fitting to hold the hose on. So I can just loosen the clamps and take the hose off the fitting. Just as good as stock too. No leaks from the clamped hoses, just the damn oil cooler.

Fuel524

this is wiered because yesterday i dropped off and picked up my cooler for 20$ for the same problem. i think it still leaks a little but i think i need to use some crush washers but it is only leaking from the lower outlet where crack was. it aint a big deal for the positive i noticed considerable cooling on my temp guage since oil is cooler now. also if u have coolant temp and oil temp the same best HP is achieved.

djs2571

My second GSL-SE actually had an oil cooler when I got it, leaked very slowly, tightened it and saw the crack. The key with welding it is making sure you weld around the rim to keep another crack from starting. I had mine done at the shop I bought my mig welder at, they ground out the crack and tig'd in the gap. Retapped the hole to make sure no junk was in the way and have had no other problems... Just try one more time.

I'd also suggest lines that are meant for oil, but also beware that a stiff hose can wear through in 6 mos if it transmits the torque of the engine rocking back and forth (engine mounts must be good). Happened once to me, needed a longer and slightly softer hose.
Also, when the hoses are tightened, make sure the hose is relazed (not trying to twist either connection) cause as one side tightens when the other loostens, so one will always start to leak.

Good luck, and if all else fails, make your own aluminum block or convert fittings to the second gen style banjo's. just make sure they will fit where you mount the cooler.

Dave Stephens

firstgen82

Rotary Shack Fixed mine...email him

jimmdog

Dude FWIW, I fixed mine with that Zinc welding rod stuff you buy from the hardware store, then I wrapped it with JB weld, then glued the fittings in with JB weld. No leaks Good Luck

85rotarypower

Well, I'm out of ideas. After letting the JB weld dry for 2 days, it still leaks. I'm so pissed right now. I am only days from being able to put this car on the road and something has to f*** up on me. Happens with every project I do.

I screwed my fitting in with a crush washer like you would normally do. Then I used about half a package of JB weld on it. I cleaned the area before I put the JB weld on it and scuffed it up with 60 grit sand paper. I see no reason for it to leak anymore. The whole area is covered in JB weld, and the oil is still somehow squeezing past the JB weld. Its f***ing rediculous because its WORSE than before. Constant stream running out of the fitting. I even left the weld on to help hold things together.

cdrad51

Get another cooler. I recently bought a used one in good condition for $25.

85rotarypower

Easier said than done around these parts. RX-7's are few and far between. Finding parts for them is like looking for a needle in a haystack sometimes. I've just gotten lucky the last few times. Mabey I will get lucky again. You never know.

I'm going to try putting more JB weld on it. I have a feeling it just didn't stick very well.

85rotarypower

Well, this is odd. When I was cleaning the fitting up to put more JB weld on it, I noticed one spot that kept getting wet even after I dried it off. I would wipe it off with a rag, and immediately afterward it would get wet again. Also, on closer inspection, I noticed a little crack in the JB weld. Its in the one place that the JB weld was a little thin. So I loaded that spot up with JB weld and I'm now waiting for tommorow to try it again.

jason_child

I got an oil cooler for sale for 10 bucks plus shipping its yours man