Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

I have Have three questions:

1.) I have to put on the front license plate to the car. I have the bracket that the license plate goes onto but I don't know the thread size, pitch, and bolt length for the bolt to go into the front bumper. I have the rear license plate on, but it's held to the rear with screws but I don't know if it's the same size I don't want to be forcing something that doesn't fit.

2.) Alright, my battery connectors have seen better days, and I need to change them out soon. They're dangerous (can't get them on or off without a fight) and a little rusty. I talked with a local '79 owner about switching the connectors he upgraded to a bigger gauge wire and gold plated connectors. It sounds like a good idea, but I don't know what to change to. What do you guys have or recommend?

3.) Last question. So today I was going to upgrade to the Black Dragon headlight harness and lights today but my plans were ruined by a dastardly villain, stripped screws. Yeah, all four of the screws that hold on my headlight lid are stripped. How do I remove them, I have no grip with a screw driver. By the way I didn't do it.

Tell me if you need pictures.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

1. the parts catalog shows it being a 6x1.0 bolt... so try it gently

2. i would just buy new factory ones, but if you insist on making your own, just buy some cable that's the same size, or a bigger... there is a parts store here locally i can take the old cable too and they can make a new one.

3. yes those screws always strip, but why not just take the headlight out? its 3 non stripped screws

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I bought some 2 guage wires already made up at Tractor Supply Company. Much better than factory and cost less. I did have to run a sperate ground to the drivers side shock tower. The factory already has this part bult in.

I also changed my fusable links to a second gen fuse block. It's easy and much better.

83Limited

HEADLIGHT LIDS....most of my screw heads stripped as well when i was taking them out. Solution was to put a cut off wheel in my dremel tool and cut a slot across it and take them out with a slotted screwdriver....worked great.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

I tried searching in the parts catalog and couldn't find the bolt size, thank you.

I like the battery cables design, just corrosion and rust has rendered them useless for working on projects. Can the cables be ordered through Mazda still? or is the Rock Auto the same thing?
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mak,MA...attery%2BCable

Removing those screws are going to be a slight challenge. When and if I remove them I'll buy a new set from Home Depot.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

^^^^^ Ignore all that about the battery wires.
What I was trying to ask is at what point in the harness can I take the connector and wire out and replace it with a brand new one? Both wires lead into a harness and I can't see where that section stops if it does. Can some please shed some light on this.


Or should i just do this: http://grandmighty.com/hosted/finish...rminals-check/


I suck at electronics and wires, it confuses me.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

um the negative cable bolts to the body and then the engine, the other one goes to the fusebox, and the engine... it kind of weaves next to the harness but its not actually IN it.

#2, why are you taking the headlight lids off? you can do everything you need to by just removing the headlight itself. its kind of a pain to get the headlight lids lined up.

if you do get the lids off, i'd use bolts to put them back on

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

All 8 of the philips screws for my headlight lids were so horribly frozen in plce after 33 years, that they stripped trying to remove them.

I used a specialized remover for philips screws, called a Grabit (hardware store item, made by Alden) that consists of a specialized reverse mill bit and a tapered helix sort of like an easy out. Worked 8 for 8.

I replaced the (ruined anyway) screws with stainless philips screws and washers. Never dealing with that again.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

I agree on bolts or another means to secure the lids. Once I saw that the screws were stripped I wanted to concentrate on that and get them fixed. You never know somewhere down the line you need to access that area for whatever reason.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

I guess the Grabit is the new tool I need to buy.
Did you put a hex bolt behind it or did you do another way to secure it in place?

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

Alright that's good to know about the wires.
I'm just going to go the simple method and just replace the terminal connectors.

jeremyferguson4444

iTrader: (6)

This! Easy, quick, free! Same thing I did on my headlight lids....

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

There are hex nuts welded to the headlight bucket frame; the screws just screw right into them, if you buy the proper size.

I used M5x12mm, pan head stainless philips, with stainless M5 washers.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

Good to know, thank you.
Monday I'll get to this and knock it out.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

Just my luck, all the local hardware stores either don't carry the sizes suggested above or they're sold out.

Redliner223

iTrader: (6)

Does anybody know where I can order bolts offline individually or maybe in small packs for a nice price. I've looked online and the smallest pack I found was 100 for $20.00 which is way more than I need and it was in Britain.
Grainger doesn't carry the sizes along with Home Depot. I haven't check Lowes but I never have any luck with them.
Any help would be appreciated.
I did pick up the Grabit but it does little help if there is nothing to replace the existing screws.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I have a BIG Fastnal store where I'm at. I changed a lot of mine over the stainless except where the extra strength is needed. They use to let you buy small open bag quantity but now they make you buy the whole bag. The SS can cost $15-$20 for 25-50 in a bag. I think they will still let you buy steal in a small amount.

Ace hardware sells a good assortment but they cost more.