Could my motor be bad???
11-17-10, 10:02 AM
#30
Not to be contrary or anything, but...
If I paid $600 for a NEW carb that wasn't performing as expected, and the people who sold it to me asked for it back so they could check it out & make it right... I'd send it back, rather than futz with it.
That level of service would be part of what I figured I'd bought with my 600 bones. Once you start modding on it, the people who sold it to you shouldn't be expected to have any responsibility for making it right.
You all know I'm all for doing it yourself, but when the seller offers to make it right... why not let them? You paid high for the privilege, after all.
Maybe they actually know what they're doing, considering how many of these carbs they've likely sold over the decades they've offered them?
Just sayin'.
If I paid $600 for a NEW carb that wasn't performing as expected, and the people who sold it to me asked for it back so they could check it out & make it right... I'd send it back, rather than futz with it.
That level of service would be part of what I figured I'd bought with my 600 bones. Once you start modding on it, the people who sold it to you shouldn't be expected to have any responsibility for making it right.
You all know I'm all for doing it yourself, but when the seller offers to make it right... why not let them? You paid high for the privilege, after all.
Maybe they actually know what they're doing, considering how many of these carbs they've likely sold over the decades they've offered them?
Just sayin'.
11-17-10, 03:18 PM
#32
Waffles - hmmm good
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Given all the information in here I would do this:
1. Get a vacuum guage.
2. Tee it into the line for the secondaries.
3. Tape the guage to the windshield.
4. Drive around and records results.
5. Profit!
If your pulling the right amount of vacuum then call RB and send it back. If your not
then see if a different spring might help or figure out why your not pulling enough
vacuum.
1. Get a vacuum guage.
2. Tee it into the line for the secondaries.
3. Tape the guage to the windshield.
4. Drive around and records results.
5. Profit!
If your pulling the right amount of vacuum then call RB and send it back. If your not
then see if a different spring might help or figure out why your not pulling enough
vacuum.
11-17-10, 06:14 PM
#33
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Not to be contrary or anything, but...
If I paid $600 for a NEW carb that wasn't performing as expected, and the people who sold it to me asked for it back so they could check it out & make it right... I'd send it back, rather than futz with it.
That level of service would be part of what I figured I'd bought with my 600 bones. Once you start modding on it, the people who sold it to you shouldn't be expected to have any responsibility for making it right.
You all know I'm all for doing it yourself, but when the seller offers to make it right... why not let them? You paid high for the privilege, after all.
Maybe they actually know what they're doing, considering how many of these carbs they've likely sold over the decades they've offered them?
Just sayin'.
If I paid $600 for a NEW carb that wasn't performing as expected, and the people who sold it to me asked for it back so they could check it out & make it right... I'd send it back, rather than futz with it.
That level of service would be part of what I figured I'd bought with my 600 bones. Once you start modding on it, the people who sold it to you shouldn't be expected to have any responsibility for making it right.
You all know I'm all for doing it yourself, but when the seller offers to make it right... why not let them? You paid high for the privilege, after all.
Maybe they actually know what they're doing, considering how many of these carbs they've likely sold over the decades they've offered them?
Just sayin'.
11-17-10, 10:33 PM
#34
Not to be contrary or anything, but...
If I paid $600 for a NEW carb that wasn't performing as expected, and the people who sold it to me asked for it back so they could check it out & make it right... I'd send it back, rather than futz with it.
That level of service would be part of what I figured I'd bought with my 600 bones. Once you start modding on it, the people who sold it to you shouldn't be expected to have any responsibility for making it right.
You all know I'm all for doing it yourself, but when the seller offers to make it right... why not let them? You paid high for the privilege, after all.
Maybe they actually know what they're doing, considering how many of these carbs they've likely sold over the decades they've offered them?
Just sayin'.
If I paid $600 for a NEW carb that wasn't performing as expected, and the people who sold it to me asked for it back so they could check it out & make it right... I'd send it back, rather than futz with it.
That level of service would be part of what I figured I'd bought with my 600 bones. Once you start modding on it, the people who sold it to you shouldn't be expected to have any responsibility for making it right.
You all know I'm all for doing it yourself, but when the seller offers to make it right... why not let them? You paid high for the privilege, after all.
Maybe they actually know what they're doing, considering how many of these carbs they've likely sold over the decades they've offered them?
Just sayin'.
11-18-10, 08:02 PM
#37
You absolutely cannot tee into the vac secondaries! A vac gauge is a good tool to see what vac you are pulling at idle, cruise etc. Even though they are called "vac secondary", the vacuum used to pull open the secondaries is sourced totally different from what you would read on a vac gauge from the intake.
12-14-10, 09:18 PM
#40
sent the carb back to racing beat last week...they called me and said the its in 100% working order and the problem must be with something on the car...just one question...the hole that goes into the choke that you run a pipe out of and wrap around your exhaust for the choke to work...Does the end of the pipe need to be sealed off or left open?? asking because the pipe were using runs from the choke on the carb to the header and it open on the end...didnt kno if this would be a big vac leak, and be causing the symptoms or not...Input??
12-15-10, 08:58 AM
#42
Wow... and this is exactly the reason why I will never run a Holley on a rotary. If you would have bought a Weber, you'd be done. Not to mention you would have to worry about pulling the float bowls off every tie you make a jet change... or you car bogging down in every right hander... and the list goes on and on.
If Racing Beat makes it.... it must be good, right?
If Racing Beat makes it.... it must be good, right?
o man.. give the guy a break
12-17-10, 01:49 AM
#47
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Next time you wanna be a *** do your research or youll just look like a fool again.
racing beat always used weber then whent fuel injection they never used holly, i bet they made the holley so jo blow who didnt know anything about nikkis could work on his car and feel special.
here is the link to racingbeats site of there cars throughout the years.
http://www.racingbeat.com/gallery/Bonn_FA/index.html
http://www.racingbeat.com/gallery/Bonn_FC/index.html
racing beat always used weber then whent fuel injection they never used holly, i bet they made the holley so jo blow who didnt know anything about nikkis could work on his car and feel special.
here is the link to racingbeats site of there cars throughout the years.
http://www.racingbeat.com/gallery/Bonn_FA/index.html
http://www.racingbeat.com/gallery/Bonn_FC/index.html
12-17-10, 09:46 AM
#48
Or I could just take your route, huh? 
Tell you what; I'll go over there today at lunch and ask Jim that for you - - you know, in the name of "doing my research before making an *** of myself."
I'm betting the reply will be entertaining.
I need an oil filter, anyway.
Back on topic:
The threaded port on a Holley choke is supposed to be an inlet for hot air, to signal the choke thermostat to open. The coil of copper tube you wrap around the header works like a heat exchanger to transfer that hot air signal from the manifold to the choke. Hooking it to a vacuum source would defeat the purpose (it would draw cold air into the choke housing), and create a vacuum leak for you.
My guess is it would work better if the lower end of the copper line is left open, so that the hot air in the tube can more easily convect up the tube to the choke. But that's a guess; better to ask the people who sold it to you.
I'll ask that question today too, since it looks like I'll be going over there.
i bet they made the holley so jo blow who didnt know anything about nikkis could work on his car and feel special.
I'm betting the reply will be entertaining.
I need an oil filter, anyway.Back on topic:
Originally Posted by RX7Boy06
is the threaded port off the choke supposed to be hooked up to a vaccum source?
My guess is it would work better if the lower end of the copper line is left open, so that the hot air in the tube can more easily convect up the tube to the choke. But that's a guess; better to ask the people who sold it to you.
I'll ask that question today too, since it looks like I'll be going over there.
12-17-10, 03:03 PM
#49
Followup, after lunch:
Firstly, the word on the copper tubing is "No need to close the end; it's just there to conduct heat up to the choke thermostat." Score one for guessing based on general engineering principles.
Now, as to the RB Holley in general:
True, it's never been in any of the RB LSR cars - - because a Bonneville car doesn't need or want a choke, even when it has carb at all. So much for having taken my point about RB's probable expertise regarding carbs and rotaries a shade more literally than I did intend it.
However, as to the idea that they only build it "...so jo blow who didnt know anything about nikkis could work on his car and feel special..."
I'll not repeat the personal reply this got; it was a source of a good laugh between he and I, though.
Officially:
The RB Holley has been in production for nearly 30 years. Many thousands have been built and sold to happy (and many times repeat) customers. The current models are the beneficiaries of decades of refinement, reflected by hundreds of hours of testing on RB's in-house dyno, in real street & track testing in their test bed vehicles, and on numerous vehicles owned by RB employees. Yes, they have used their Holleys on project builds both for RB owned cars as well as cars/engines built for customers. Their Chief Engineer, Jim Mederer, stands behind it as he does all his projects. He bench-checks each one.
RB's got no beef against Webers (they sell them, too, you might have noticed), but in their opinion the Weber is unsuitable for a car that has seen minimal engine mods and will need to be routinely street driven. They sell the Weber (both the unmodded 48 and their modded 51) for race apps, where large ports or p-ported housings are in use.
The Holley is more streetable, more suitable for non-ported or street-ported engines, and is more supportable in that parts are more readily available.
So no, it's not a dumbed-down carb for know-nothing Joe Blow to strap on in order to look all cool at the local meet. It's a serious performance carb with a hell of a lot of man-years of tuning behind it.
Research - - it really is good to do it before shooting one's mouth off!
Firstly, the word on the copper tubing is "No need to close the end; it's just there to conduct heat up to the choke thermostat." Score one for guessing based on general engineering principles.
Now, as to the RB Holley in general:
True, it's never been in any of the RB LSR cars - - because a Bonneville car doesn't need or want a choke, even when it has carb at all. So much for having taken my point about RB's probable expertise regarding carbs and rotaries a shade more literally than I did intend it.
However, as to the idea that they only build it "...so jo blow who didnt know anything about nikkis could work on his car and feel special..."
I'll not repeat the personal reply this got; it was a source of a good laugh between he and I, though.
Officially:
The RB Holley has been in production for nearly 30 years. Many thousands have been built and sold to happy (and many times repeat) customers. The current models are the beneficiaries of decades of refinement, reflected by hundreds of hours of testing on RB's in-house dyno, in real street & track testing in their test bed vehicles, and on numerous vehicles owned by RB employees. Yes, they have used their Holleys on project builds both for RB owned cars as well as cars/engines built for customers. Their Chief Engineer, Jim Mederer, stands behind it as he does all his projects. He bench-checks each one.
RB's got no beef against Webers (they sell them, too, you might have noticed), but in their opinion the Weber is unsuitable for a car that has seen minimal engine mods and will need to be routinely street driven. They sell the Weber (both the unmodded 48 and their modded 51) for race apps, where large ports or p-ported housings are in use.
The Holley is more streetable, more suitable for non-ported or street-ported engines, and is more supportable in that parts are more readily available.
So no, it's not a dumbed-down carb for know-nothing Joe Blow to strap on in order to look all cool at the local meet. It's a serious performance carb with a hell of a lot of man-years of tuning behind it.
Research - - it really is good to do it before shooting one's mouth off!
12-22-10, 05:00 PM
#50
ok so were running out of ideas here...we sent the carb back to racing beat and they assured us that everything is 100% working order, and that it must be something on our engine or car...well im not finding any vac leaks...ran another compression test last night and got 100 front 100 rear...so i dont think thats the problem...one other thing they said check was make sure the exhaust isnt plugged up...well it has a Racing beat header to 2.5" pipe all the way back to a muffler no cats so i dont think thats the problem unless maybe the 79 engine thats in our 85 is just real restrictive or something or there a massive blockage in the exhaust track from sitting for almost a year with no motor...any other ideas?? Also what is the best way to test for a vac leak on this car? carb cleaner?
thanx
thanx
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