james1902

Hi PPL,

Am looking on getting an FB or maybe an FC but as it's my first RX I'm looking to keep the costs as low as possible.
I've heard that the costs can get quite high running one of these beauties.

I was told that an FB would be a cheep option to get experience in the rotary scene.

Any one from WET ENGLAND running one of these lovelies that could give me an idea of what to expect?

Anything will be appreciated.

Thinking about it ANY experience from ANYONE from ANYWHERE running an FB would also be appreciated.

Thanx. keep it rotary!

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

An FB is an excellent choice for an introduction to the rotary scene. It is a great chassis, small, light and nimble, and has a good powerplant to start with. The carbed 12A models are easy to work on (I say this because I have no experience with the GSL-SE 13B F.I engines) and you have minimal electronics to deal with. The 12A is also about as bulletproof as a stock rotary engine can get. They take the abuse and keep on going. It also takes very little to get them to go faster. The cost depends on the car you end up buying. Finding replacement parts is getting harder and they do not come cheap, so your best bet is to buy something that runs well and has a good body and interior, so you may spend more to begin with but, you'll have less frustration and more money in your pocket if you don't have to replace alot of parts.

Good luck

james1902

thanx for the advise, i don't mind working on the car a bit to get things running nicely.
the reason for me asking was that i've come across a few nice bargains in quite good condition.

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

Overall an FB would be cheaper and easier to work with. It is a better starter vehicle because it is simpler. The downside is it is older so chances are it will need more general fixing.

james1902

most of these cars should be tax exempt right???
and on classic insurance???

OneRotor

iTrader: (3)

I say find one that is in excellent body/chassis shape. The mechanicals are cheap enough to replace (relatively). My first FB was in pretty good mechanical shape as far as the aftermarket parts that were on it, but it ended up rusting out. It's cheaper to find a replacement 12a than it is to replace bad rust. Transmissions are cheap. Rear axles are cheap.

Overall, running a FB is, like it was said above, all about what you start with and what your goals are with the car. I personally run Royal Purple in my FB (let's not get into THAT debate), so between that and my oil filter (remote mount oil filter, uses the same as the 5.4L Ford V8), my oil changes run in the $100 range. Pricey, but it's worth it. Aftermarket parts are relatively pricey, but there are good ones out there. Check out my sig for pictures of what you can get for $800 American. You just have to wait to find the right one.

To put the costs of things in perspective (i said earlier that the parts are relatively expensive). I purchased my FB for $800. The exhaust system that I have (Racing Beat SP) runs $959 plus shipping. It's a heavy bitch, so figure about $1100 with shipping. Luckily my first FB had this exhaust when I bought it. I have MSD Blaster 2 Coils. $35.95 plus shipping for 2 coils from summitracing.com. These were on my old FB, just transferred them over.

For actual running costs, like I said I run Royal Purple, which is pricey. I also have a remote mount oil filter, which increases my costs. My insurance (I'm under my parents policy, they have 4 other cars and a 4000 square foot house on the policy) and my insurance is $35/month. I currently have the Exhaust, Coils, Magnacore 10mm plug wires, e-fan, and I removed the A/C, air pump, and installed an e-fan. At 78mph on the freeway driving to school I achieved just over 28mpg. Tires are cheap, even if you upgrade to a 15" wheel. Running costs, as you can see, are low.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

A 1st gen will be cheaper to operate than a 2nd gen. As stated, a 1st gen can achieve 28 mpg, the 2nd gen will hit about 24 mph highway on cruise control. They are also more nimble and fun to drive, I have both Series and prefer to drive the 1st gen. I do spend more time and money on the 1st gen, but then mine is highly mmodified

thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

agreed, imo the cars go FD>FB>FC

reisama

iTrader: (1)

I have an fb, and i'm buying an fc this weekend, however i doubt i will ever give away my fb. IMO they have more style, and are more raw.
They handle amazingly well, and the joy you get from driving one is just amazing.

your hands might hurt a bit in the begining if you get a none power stearing model though:P


as much as like the look of FDs i think they are too attension graby. They just scream out, look at me.

fb->fd->fc(looks to much like a porsche)

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

The FB is probably the best entry car; SA's are simply getting to be too hard to get parts for unless it's strictly a hobby car, and FC's and FD's are costly or more complicated. There is enough still-rolling inventory of FB's out there to keep parts flowing for some years yet.

I'd like an FD some day, but the odds of a good, clean, non-bastardized one falling into my price range are shrinking every time they make one of those "Fast and Foolish" movies.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I'd say FD>FE>FB>SA> ... scion>Yugo ... >FC

mpk490p

hi mate im in the uk get yourself onto these sites plenty of info there and on here
http://www.mazdarotaryclub.com/
http://www.exile-rotorsport.com/
Mark

mpk490p

not tax exempt but you can get classic insurance

james1902

thanx for the links mpk490p... will defo have a look at these.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the FB is the cheapest car ive ever owned, ive had about 15-16 of em.

i DO live in california, so we dont have to deal with rust. also they are getting a bit rare, so the condition has gone down a little, and price has gone up.

ive had a few i bought for $200-300 and driven for 20,000-40,000 miles, with very little cost. i have also had one (about to be two) that i left in a field for 2 years, put a battery in it, and then did a year of track days, and i sold that one, but it still beats s2000's up the mountain.

all the 12a cars ive had, have leaked oil between the housings and needed the engine pulled apart and resealed.

last two 1st gens i had i even sold for more than i had into em, which is unexpected but nice

i switched to a bmw E30, which in comparison is a pile of crap.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

SA's are the nicest, but FB's are pretty much the same thing only more "modern".

I also use RP oil, and my changes cost about 35-40$ since I buy oil a case at a time, along with the filters. If I did the trans/rear/engine oil, and bought it separately, it would come to around 80$.

Only things I buy are oil, gas, and premix. Damn near most reliable car I have ever owned, minus my DD the Protege.

g11ary

Hi James
Im in Reading
I own RoTechniks in Grazely and have a FB might be ideal for you £400 needs some tcl to get through MOT, been a customers car for last 12 years with us, but he now has an RX8. Needs a small amount of welding to seals etc.
Call in to see if interested.

Got it advertised on
http://www.rotaryart.uk.com
and
http://www.rotarycommunity.com