cornering suspention setup questions
04-09-09, 11:13 PM
#76
Street Prepared rules do not allow metal or metallic bushing materials in the suspension. So you have to use plastic (Urethane, Prothane, Poly-Graphite, whatever) in the suspension pickup points. Now the tri-link can have rod ends because it is defined as a traction aid. Check the rules at www.scca.com to be sure.
Interestingly enough my Improved Touring car can have metal bushing in the suspension - Hiems - and have a ball joint spacer. All of which my car has and I can run the car in CSP. However to do this, I have to run the car in IT trim. That means 7" wheels, stock carb, no port matching, no intake mod's etc. Yeah....not competitive at all.
Interestingly enough my Improved Touring car can have metal bushing in the suspension - Hiems - and have a ball joint spacer. All of which my car has and I can run the car in CSP. However to do this, I have to run the car in IT trim. That means 7" wheels, stock carb, no port matching, no intake mod's etc. Yeah....not competitive at all.
04-09-09, 11:56 PM
#77
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Those spring rates are very high for a street driven car. One of my competitors uses springs of that range, and he'll tell you right up front that the car cannot be driven on the streets like that. I have not driven a car with those kinds of spring rates myself, so the only knowledge I have of this is what he has told me (and what I've read from others).
04-10-09, 12:36 AM
#78
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mustang warhamer, Great post. tons of good info in there.
I did like the hard springs, but I was just saying its a stiff ride. Oregon has some crappy roads. I don't know why but even when the repave. a year or so later back to crap. The construction never ends.
I did like the hard springs, but I was just saying its a stiff ride. Oregon has some crappy roads. I don't know why but even when the repave. a year or so later back to crap. The construction never ends.
04-10-09, 03:17 AM
#79
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shocks definitely help with the stiff ride, the illuminas are amazing. the roads here are even worse. drove to bend / sunriver recently in the jeep. they don't seem too bad
04-10-09, 06:42 AM
#80
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As far as the springs go, it's not a daily driver, but will be driven to events, and taken for some drives, so I can deal with a slightly harsher ride due to springs, we'll see. I'm still doing the research, have a lot of work to do on the body before I even start thinking about the suspension.
Great info here, thanks for all of the posts.
Jason
Great info here, thanks for all of the posts.
Jason
04-10-09, 05:59 PM
#81
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I think you misunderstand the purpose of the collapse pin in the steering column. It does not matter if you have a 5-point harness or a stock seatbelt. The reason for the collapsability of the steering assembly is not to minimize damage should you slide forward and hit it. It's to remove the risk of the whole steering assembly ripping itself from its mounts and crushing your chest in a front end impact. This as you may have guessed, would most likely be fatal. At the very least, it might sting a wee bit. Do not replace the pin with set screw or anything other than the proper part. If it's broken replace it with the same part.
04-21-09, 09:39 AM
#93
I ran the car in Eastlake over the weekend, on a set of Kumho MX tires I did want to use the slicks there the lot is to small and there ar to many stones and holes. the car felt much better it didn't plow and I could kick the rearend out on the 180 deg. turns. I will be up in at the Chrysler plant in Perrysburg this weekend with the slicks. I will post up a report after that. my alignment settings are 1.5 neg camber full neg. caster and 1/8" total toe out.
04-23-09, 06:01 PM
#95
i put a manula rack in my 1st gen race car, who says its impossible?
all you need to do is find one that is the correct width with steering arms, and fab a bracket that gives you correct geometry......you may have to do some bump steer elimination and some mods to your spindle anchor point if you move the rack more forward, but having your steering more rear is beter and lower is better than higher.....
all you need to do is find one that is the correct width with steering arms, and fab a bracket that gives you correct geometry......you may have to do some bump steer elimination and some mods to your spindle anchor point if you move the rack more forward, but having your steering more rear is beter and lower is better than higher.....
04-28-09, 04:03 PM
#96
Ok so I ran the car on new slicks this weekend with all the new parts I put on.
the car still needs to be tweeked , I still am geting some understeer in tight corners and can't kick the rear out. But the car is very stable in sloloms and sweepers. More tweeking in a few weeks Iwill be running in Eastlake this weekend the lot is to small and to much debris.
the car still needs to be tweeked , I still am geting some understeer in tight corners and can't kick the rear out. But the car is very stable in sloloms and sweepers. More tweeking in a few weeks Iwill be running in Eastlake this weekend the lot is to small and to much debris.
04-29-09, 12:53 AM
#99
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Just so we don't have to dig back through the entire thread to see if you listed this info, can you also answer these two items?
Spring rates
Front swaybar type
Spring rates
Front swaybar type