Considering a purchase...anything i should know
05-19-10, 11:04 PM
#1
Considering a purchase...anything i should know
I don't have as much experience with the 1st gens as you all do, but a 1980 with 76k miles came up for sale a couple cities away.
I called the guy, he says it runs fine, started right up, idles smooth etc. But, the rear breaks are siezed. Obviously Im sure you cannot diagnose this without seeing it/taking it apart, but is that a typical thing for these cars?
Also, I asked if the mileage was steadily accumulated or if it sat for a few years. It appears to have sat for a while. Does that ruin anything?
With what you know, is it more probable this car would be a money pit or a good find? Asking price is $1250.
I called the guy, he says it runs fine, started right up, idles smooth etc. But, the rear breaks are siezed. Obviously Im sure you cannot diagnose this without seeing it/taking it apart, but is that a typical thing for these cars?
Also, I asked if the mileage was steadily accumulated or if it sat for a few years. It appears to have sat for a while. Does that ruin anything?
With what you know, is it more probable this car would be a money pit or a good find? Asking price is $1250.
05-19-10, 11:50 PM
#2
Talk him down to a grand, but look for rust!
Storage bins
wheel arches
just behind rear arches
When you go to look at it, make sure that it has not been started and warmed up. Some
people will do that to mask cold start problems. Tell him/her this ahead of time, and if you go
there and it is already warm, walk away.
Not much more I can tell ya, I buy shells and go from there. Someone more informative could
probably help you more!
Storage bins
wheel arches
just behind rear arches
When you go to look at it, make sure that it has not been started and warmed up. Some
people will do that to mask cold start problems. Tell him/her this ahead of time, and if you go
there and it is already warm, walk away.
Not much more I can tell ya, I buy shells and go from there. Someone more informative could
probably help you more!
05-20-10, 01:18 AM
#3
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
80's have some nuances that will tend to make them a little more maintenance intensive, but a bit easier than 79's (with points ignition).
The rear brakes on the SA22's (the 79's and 80's) have two metal adjusters at the back plate of each rear drum which must be adjusted to 'preset' the pads against the drums. What's probably happened is that the parking brake was set long ago, forcing the pads into contact with the drums, and they've rusted there. An easy fix, as you just need to grab a lug wrench, take off the rear wheels (jack it up, obviously), and then remove the rear drums forcefully using light taps on 4 corners of the drum to free it up. You could aos use a 14mm box-end wrench to loosen the adjusters, but keep in mind that they're locked using lock nuts (12mm?), and are actually cams which, when turned toward the outside, will pull in the bottoms of the brake shoes, freeing them from the drums.
Once you get the brake drums off, you'll see how it all works, but adjustment is a PITA, and mostly a trial and error process. You might want to stop at your local car parts store and pick up new brake shoes on the way home - you're going to want them working.
There aren't many 80's around anymore, and every one you can save will eventually be valued to collectors. Good luck,
The rear brakes on the SA22's (the 79's and 80's) have two metal adjusters at the back plate of each rear drum which must be adjusted to 'preset' the pads against the drums. What's probably happened is that the parking brake was set long ago, forcing the pads into contact with the drums, and they've rusted there. An easy fix, as you just need to grab a lug wrench, take off the rear wheels (jack it up, obviously), and then remove the rear drums forcefully using light taps on 4 corners of the drum to free it up. You could aos use a 14mm box-end wrench to loosen the adjusters, but keep in mind that they're locked using lock nuts (12mm?), and are actually cams which, when turned toward the outside, will pull in the bottoms of the brake shoes, freeing them from the drums.
Once you get the brake drums off, you'll see how it all works, but adjustment is a PITA, and mostly a trial and error process. You might want to stop at your local car parts store and pick up new brake shoes on the way home - you're going to want them working.
There aren't many 80's around anymore, and every one you can save will eventually be valued to collectors. Good luck,
05-20-10, 03:16 AM
#4
Be prepared to have to tow the car. Not necessarily a bad thing rather than getting it "sort-of" running then cook/break something on the long trip home. As Longduck and others suggest, its obviously sat for a long time and the chances of damaging it without correctly resurrecting it can be fatal to the engine, assuming its OK. Fuel system will be gunked up and anything more than starting it can make the follow-up repairs even more of a pain. Plus excellent cahnce you'll get stuck with a dead car 1/2 way home. Likewise running on old oils and coolant. This should all be drained AND flushed before anything beyond a trip around the block!!
Jeezuz makes a great point about pre-warm ups before you arrive!!!! A bad rotary can be (with difficulty) started, with all the smoke and bilge pumped out (temporarily) when you arrive to Re-Start. At this point there is NO way short of special tools to easily tell the condition of the motor - and it will start and running willingly once the "first" prestart/run temporarily cleared out the combustion chambers. So it really is VITAL that you are there to cold start the car!!
If its going to smoke, THAT is when you will see it! And they DO smoke a _little_ and it should be dark, oily smoke - white, sweet-smelling (smell of coolant) smoke means the motors water seals are cooked and it will have to be rebuilt. making a $1200 car worth maybe $300 if the body is nice...
Lots of folks to help you here. best bet: go look, drive/start, take pics, report back to us for input THEN make an offer....!
Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska
Jeezuz makes a great point about pre-warm ups before you arrive!!!! A bad rotary can be (with difficulty) started, with all the smoke and bilge pumped out (temporarily) when you arrive to Re-Start. At this point there is NO way short of special tools to easily tell the condition of the motor - and it will start and running willingly once the "first" prestart/run temporarily cleared out the combustion chambers. So it really is VITAL that you are there to cold start the car!!
If its going to smoke, THAT is when you will see it! And they DO smoke a _little_ and it should be dark, oily smoke - white, sweet-smelling (smell of coolant) smoke means the motors water seals are cooked and it will have to be rebuilt. making a $1200 car worth maybe $300 if the body is nice...
Lots of folks to help you here. best bet: go look, drive/start, take pics, report back to us for input THEN make an offer....!
Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska
05-20-10, 10:05 AM
#5
As longduck said, the shoes may have rusted in place, since the parking brake engages them to the rotors.
Another possibility is that the rear brake cylinders may have leaked inside the drums. This makes the pads swell up and also attracts water which will accelerate rust.
Good news is replacement shoes and cylinders are both readily available and not expensive.
Another possibility is that the rear brake cylinders may have leaked inside the drums. This makes the pads swell up and also attracts water which will accelerate rust.
Good news is replacement shoes and cylinders are both readily available and not expensive.
05-20-10, 11:08 AM
#6
Well, I originally set out looking for an FD because after 8 years, I can finally afford one. I found this car in my search, and considered it. You guys are way more qualified than I am to own it, especially if it is nearing collector status. Here is the ad, maybe someone else can save it.
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/1749404016.html
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/1749404016.html