jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

First off, I should probably not be considering purchasing anything, but....

I've found a 13b n/a engine w/ less than 80,000 miles on it. And I've found a 12a with *cough* 200,000 miles on it. But, both are local to me, and given that these engines don't exactly grow on trees, I was mulling over the possibilities.

So, what should I look for in terms of what may/may not be wrong with these engines? Any usual things to keep an eye out for? Both engines are out of their respective cars.

I have a 1985 12a, w/ low mileage...and as such I don't have any plans to do anything major to it in the near future. But, I do have a shed.....

And, what is a fair price? I guess that can't be answered until more is known about the condition of the engines....

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Answer these few questions and it will help us answer any questions you may have:
+ Are either of the engines installed in cars?
+ Can you go and look at these engines at your leisure?
+ Do the owners say that they are running or not?
+ Any extra info you didn't post here?
We'll help as much as we can

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

1. Do they turn over by hand?
2. Is there even compression puffs on turnover?
3. Inspect the apex seals thru the exhaust port.

A 12A with 200,000+ miles on it is probably shot and at least one of the housings will be trash
I bet. I wouldn't give more than $50.00 for it unless you can see it run. Its hard to get 12A
housings at this point.

The 13B might be worthy even if it has bad compression and you can still get housings easily.
Since your current motor is good, I'd look at the 13B before the 12A.

jbherri2

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. These are helpful. Both engines are out of the cars. I've not see either in person, but both are within a half hour of me. The owners claim they "were running when pulled", but who knows what that may actually mean...?

I might take a gander, just for grins. We'll see.

thanks for your thoughts!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you should be able to spin them over with a 19mm wrench and get compression.

just because they were running doesn't mean they aren't completely worn out, a 200,000mile 12A will be pretty worthless inside, however a 12A that came out of a 200,000mile car, but was rebuilt 50k ago might be good.

unless the 12A is some previously rebuilt gem, its basically worthless, it'll need housings and rotors at least. if you want an engine to pull apart and play with, it might be fun

an 80k 13B should be pretty nice inside, its worth $200, if its got compression.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Learning tool, why not for $50?

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I bought 2 engines a couple years ago, both 12As.

The first one I paid $75.00 because the kid rebuilt it using a full Atkins kit ($$$) and then it ate
a bolt in the rear rotor and popped a coolant seal. That was a great buy, all the atkins hard
parts were in primo like new shape, not even broke in (apex seals, corner seals, oilrings, side
seals) all like new. I figure it saved me over $500.00 on my 12A rebuild when it happens. It
was using the 82-83 rotating assembly. Amazingly both housings look good and the side plates
are in excellent shape. One housing has a chunk broken on the upper side of the
exhaust port where the bolt went thru but when I port it, that chunk disappears. I do need to
measure it all to make sure its not warped or anything. One rotor has a dent in it from the
bolt as well but is otherwise looking ok.

The second one I got for $50.00 and it was a beat 12A unknown mileage. SA 12A with the
heavy rotors. Side plates very worn, rear housing toast.

So between the 2 of em for $125.00 I definitely have a full set of parts to make one good
12A and just buying the soft seal kit. You never know what you'll find out there.