tboltkc

I searched my *** off for this. I've found it before but couldn't find it this time.

Does it matter which plug you test? And you need to have the other one installed, right?

My car just stopped running on the rear rotor, took out the T2 plug after a short drive (absolutely no power at any RPM) and it was wet with fuel. I checked spark the other day on that plug (when it wouldn't start) and had spark. T1 plug looked good.

Obviously I don't have a rotary compression tester, but know to take the Schrader valve out of my normal tester.

I just want to rule out a blown apex seal before I start throwing cap/rotor/plugs/wires at it.

Thanks.

cdrad51

Well you can always do a ghetto compression test. It is better to diagnose a blown apex seal than the normal compression tester.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Disable fuel and spark, remove either T or L plug, crank engine, listen for 3 even puffs. Do the same for the other rotor. If all 6 puffs sound even, then try the tester to get a reading. I'm just north of you, if you need help, PM me.

tboltkc

trochoid - thanks. I've read all your great posts and never noticed you were so close.

Turns out my (biggest) problem was just fouled plugs on the rear rotor. I cleaned and it runs better than it has since I've had it, because I also rejetted the carb (45 DCOE) because it was running way rich. Still probably not all it can be, but much, much better.

My compression is still probably a little low, but I'm going to try either the steam cleaning method or the Seafoam method to clean it out and see what happens.

cdrad51

There's always MMO too...

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you want to bring the car up, PM me. There are several members from the KC area that bring thier cars up for work.