challer2000

It’s a 1980 stock. Reman engine installed in 03 now it has 7k on it.

Just replaced Cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and coils.

It started fine I let the engine warm up before shutting it off. Then I decided to leave the battery in it since its coming out of storage in a few weeks. So I strapped in the battery and decided to start it again and let it run for another 5min. Turn the key and nothing happens the engine is turning but its not starting. So I decided to make sure any wires didn’t get loose when I put the battery in and I see antifreeze on the top of the radiator. Take out the sparkplugs and manually turn over the engine. Placed a shirt under the engine so I didn’t make a mess and it seems that there maybe antifreeze coming out of the engine sparkplug holes.

I don’t know what to do. It’s in group storage and a big RV is blocking me from pushing is out so it can get toed my mechanic (it may take a few weeks for him to move it, owner of the storage unit is going to trying to contact him).

any ideas while the battery is chargin?

challer2000

Been searching and it doesn’t sound good. Battery was drained down to 70% so its charging, I’ll have to go check out the 7 tomorrow.

challer2000

Went back got car started. Looks like coolant driping from radiator, also the coolant is only in that area and there is no coolant in the engine, so I'm thinking its the radiator.

bliffle

Maybe water pump. Did you examine the 'weephole' on the WP right under the shaft?

Sometimes WP belt is overtightened leading to premature bushing failure.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Was anything done to the cooling system during the Reman of the engine?? Unless Biffle's "weephole" idea works out, I'd recommend an O/H of cooling system. Easy to do:
-new hoses unless you know their recent ESPECIALLY the HEATER hoses!! These are often forgotten, and the driver-side heater hose (terminates under the oil filter) is notorious for failing!(weakened by years of exposure to oil from filter changes, etc.) Would take the motor with it if it fails....
-pull and have rad professional dunked and pressure tested.
-unless you KNOW the water pump is recent, $40 gets you a new one and they are an easy swap-out. Doesn't make sense to have the $$ into a motor and reuse an old pump.
-coolant @ 50% distilled water/coolant
-new belt
Now you'll know the cooling system is ready to go. Critical on a rotary...
Some good tips if you DO swap the pump - a couple of "gotcha's" you'd need to know.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

challer2000

Not sure on the water pump or anything others in the cooling system was replaced...It doen't say on the bill if they used anything new (for cooling).

Thanks for the fast replys...

I have been searching for "weephole" what is it. I may be searching wrong but not getting any good info.

When the 7 is running I can see coolent drippeng. The location of the leak is around the radiator. Can't really see where but facing the radiator (driver side looking at the direction of the fan and radiator) I can see it dripping in the center of the fan shroud at the bottom. If that makes sence.

challer2000

Here are some pics

Driver side between fan and Radiator looking down.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0/HPIM0602.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0/HPIM0595.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0/HPIM0598.jpg


Passanger side top of radiator.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0/HPIM0593.jpg

Thermostat.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0/HPIM0600.jpg

Water pump side.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0/HPIM0601.jpg

Radiator

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...0/HPIM0599.jpg

What do you guys think?

Ovid213

With coolant in that location, I'd say your radiatior is the most likely culprit. My advice: remove fan shroud (for visibility), rinse all coolant away and allow to dry, start and run car to temp with pressure cap on, watch for coolant leak to appear, especially around the seams where the tanks are attached to radiator core. Maybe it's just because I'm in the AZ desert, but every first gen I've ever met has had the tanks break lose of the stock rad core, it just seems to be a weak unit (not to mention age). Decent aftermarket units seem to be much more longlived.

bliffle

A wornout waterpump leaks coolant through a weephole under the shaft. Look for coolant dripping out or look for white residue all over the WP from dried old coolant. Sometimes caused by an overtightened v-belt, sometimes by old age.

challer2000

I'll take some pics around the weephole and under the shaft. But I didnt see any white residue around that area.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

I'd say your rad looks like the culprit bro- pics seem to show coolant right at the bottom of the rad INside the fan shroud. Can't see how coolant would get there from a bad pump, thru the spinning fan!
New rad time, me thinks:
here's one for sale on ebay, NEW:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/79-82...spagenameZWDVW
or if you want to spring for one of the better 3 core rads at mazdatrix - ebay one will be a standard 2 core, similar to the original. Nothing wrong with that if you change the coolant every 3 yrs, etc.-
again, great time for all-new hoses, clamps, thermostat - etc.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

challer2000

Thanks for the link, for a little extra I might as well get the better one and go 3 core. I will have to call the shop and set up a date to get it fixed. My yard is getting prepped for a garage so I won’t be able to work on it at home.