Cold air intake
I am looking for a cheep way to add hp. Has anyone put a cold air intake kit on their first gen. If so where coul I get one and how much. If its too expensive I think I will make one myself
waste of time. The flapper in the air cleaner will divert hot air from the exhuast manifold when too cool of air is drawed in anyway. The design is to keep the air intake temp constant to keep the jetting in the relatively proper temp range. Sorry fellas who did this, but is mainly a phycological effect(<5% unsubstaniated increase) unless you have some undesputable dyno proof you guys wish to share. No flaming unless you prove your claims.
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waste of time. The flapper in the air cleaner will divert hot air from the exhuast manifold when too cool of air is drawed in anyway. The design is to keep the air intake temp constant to keep the jetting in the relatively proper temp range. Sorry fellas who did this, but is mainly a phycological effect(<5% unsubstaniated increase) unless you have some undesputable dyno proof you guys wish to share. No flaming unless you prove your claims.
I agree with WackyRotary. Also in normal use on the road, the air temperature being drawn in is little different from the outside via any 'cold' box, so the theoritical increase is less than 1/2 hp. I am not too sure about any impact on optimal jetting, where I drive the temperature range is up to 30 degrees difference during the day and there is little apparent impact on performance.
Sorry damn instant messenger anyways the flapper only works during warm up after that it should be open. You will produce more power with cooler air than warm air .
Thats why they run better those cool days. Nitrous just lowers your intake charge for a more dense charge of air. You may not see the power increase like nitous but its better than under the hood air.
Thats why they run better those cool days. Nitrous just lowers your intake charge for a more dense charge of air. You may not see the power increase like nitous but its better than under the hood air.
Sorry damn instant messenger anyways the flapper only works during warm up after that it should be open. You will produce more power with cooler air than warm air .
This is a extreme example, but it does vary in medium temp ranges all the time. Otherwise on cool humid days, the carb would start icing some with the flapper removed.
Originally posted by crankit
Thats why they run better those cool days. Nitrous just lowers your intake charge for a more dense charge of air. You may not see the power increase like nitous but its better than under the hood air.
Thats why they run better those cool days. Nitrous just lowers your intake charge for a more dense charge of air. You may not see the power increase like nitous but its better than under the hood air.
Flapper? What Flapper?
When I had a 12A, and put on a header, the hose from the manifold had to go. So the next thing I did was to remove the flapper from the air filter snorkel....There yuh go, no more obstruction to the air flow...
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib....
When I had a 12A, and put on a header, the hose from the manifold had to go. So the next thing I did was to remove the flapper from the air filter snorkel....There yuh go, no more obstruction to the air flow...
The flapper isn't really a obstruction. The intake system is more then adquate for the stock carb even with a header. The main difference is phycological ofcourse.
On my CIA I removed the flapper and spring and plugged up the resulting hole. That should work wonderfully.
I do not think it would be any cooler intake temps than stock or an open element while going down the road, but sitting at a light can raise the engine bay temps.
I also think it may have some ram air affect, but all this would only add up to very, very minimal HP gains.
It must add some power or prevent some power loss, or every race car made would not run some type of cold air induction and/or ram air.
I do not think it would be any cooler intake temps than stock or an open element while going down the road, but sitting at a light can raise the engine bay temps.
I also think it may have some ram air affect, but all this would only add up to very, very minimal HP gains.
It must add some power or prevent some power loss, or every race car made would not run some type of cold air induction and/or ram air.
heres a chemistry link to see what nitrous is and does you know the facts http://antoine.fsu.umd.edu/chem/sense/101/index.shtml
also whats the main difference between Ram air and cold air intake??
also whats the main difference between Ram air and cold air intake??
Here's my setup with pics: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=68803
ram air, shram air on a 12a carb'd. Do you know were NASCar vents their carbs to for fresh air?(by the way, I'm not a NASCAR fan really) Its not in the front of radiator. Guess? Its were the windshield meets the engine hood. This is a higher pressure zone area at speed. Up front were air is at a higher velocity, tends to be in a lower pressure zone also.
Kinda the same deal with wings on a airplane. Were the velocity is high(on top were the wing is curved), there is less air pressure and the plane rises. The bottom of the wing is in a lower velocity range(on bottom is flat) and pressure is higher and gets a push from the pressure thus causing the plane to rise. Ofcourse the difference in pressure is small on a slow moving vehicle, but is maginfied at 150mph+ as you'd guess.
Its hard to measure these zones without special equipment and wind tunnel testing.
Kinda the same deal with wings on a airplane. Were the velocity is high(on top were the wing is curved), there is less air pressure and the plane rises. The bottom of the wing is in a lower velocity range(on bottom is flat) and pressure is higher and gets a push from the pressure thus causing the plane to rise. Ofcourse the difference in pressure is small on a slow moving vehicle, but is maginfied at 150mph+ as you'd guess.
Its hard to measure these zones without special equipment and wind tunnel testing.
Crankit, here's a quote from that link you posted:
This is exactly what I said before. N2O cotains one part oxygen and two parts nitrogen, ie. 33% oxygen.(ring a bell?) The extra oxygen allows you to burn more fuel (like I said before) and make more power.
Nitrous oxide supports combustion better than air does. The N2O molecule dissociates at temperatures well below what is required for combustion, delivering an atom of oxygen and freeing molecular nitrogen:
N2O(g) N2(g) + O(g)
The free oxygen atom quickly reacts with the fuel. A huge gain in horsepower results, since more fuel can be burned in less time.
N2O(g) N2(g) + O(g)
The free oxygen atom quickly reacts with the fuel. A huge gain in horsepower results, since more fuel can be burned in less time.
Originally posted by crankit
One last time. Cold air produces more power than warm air. The more air you get in the chamber the more power.
One last time. Cold air produces more power than warm air. The more air you get in the chamber the more power.
Plus, you get the "cool" factor.


