cold air intake
#26
My 7 is my girlfriend.
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You'd be surprised what people will steal. A while ago my stock + wheels were stolen. One was bent beyond repair and they also took two empty Tokico damper boxes (figure that one out....). A while later while my car was at a shop it was keyed pretty bad. The shop was out of the way and out of sight, and my car wasn't in plain view either. There was also a black late 90's BMW 5 series that was left untouched. People will **** with anything just to get a kick, because, well people are messed up. So NEVER EVER EVER put any faith in society when it comes to stuff like that.
#28
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all right you got me. its just pretty common around my neck of woods if you own a honda, stock out side or full out ricer on the out side some thing will get stolen.
i left my keys in my car one day,at the local train stop. when i came back six hours later this honda that parked next to me befor i got out of my car had the head light and tail lights removed. my car was fine and the keys where sitting on the seat. the whole day i thought i left them on the train.
i cant wait to see pic's of the scoop installed.
with my car you cant lock the keys in dont know if this goes for all frist gen's.
i left my keys in my car one day,at the local train stop. when i came back six hours later this honda that parked next to me befor i got out of my car had the head light and tail lights removed. my car was fine and the keys where sitting on the seat. the whole day i thought i left them on the train.
i cant wait to see pic's of the scoop installed.
with my car you cant lock the keys in dont know if this goes for all frist gen's.
#29
Did a brief mock up today. Still waiting to pick up my donor hood to start cutting, but it gives you an idea. The big spacer under the scoop will go away. Instead I will be adding a 2: carb spacer to get the carb away from the heat of the blower and I may fabricate a blower spacer to increase plenum volume too.
#31
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two word's bad ***.
if you haven't thought of it, word of advice(iam a welder.) befor you cut the hole mark the hole you want with a grease pen. then get 1/4 or 3/8 steel rod. bend it to the shape of the hole your cutting out. tack it on and do some small weld's. it will prevent warping.
if you haven't thought of it, word of advice(iam a welder.) befor you cut the hole mark the hole you want with a grease pen. then get 1/4 or 3/8 steel rod. bend it to the shape of the hole your cutting out. tack it on and do some small weld's. it will prevent warping.
#32
Hmmmmmmm, interesting! My plans are to make a cardboard template of the hood so I can measure more than twice and cut once. I was just gonna use my angle grinder with a cutting blade like I saw on trucks, they showed that you must just skim the surface when cutting so you don't warp the metal. First I'll have to remove some hood bracing. I have a friend with a welder, he's gonna come in very handy! I like your idea, so now I'll do the cutting from underneath and the frame that gets welded on before cutting with keep the hood from flexing later as well as prevent warping. Thanks!
#33
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this is why i suggested my last post.
i dont know if you know what a 81 or a 84 rs turbo capri (mercury fox body)looks like.
well any ways me and my buddy own the car (84). it came with a spare hood from a 81, same hood but different scoop's bolted on. the two hoods have a big hole cut in it but the scoops are for show. they both have two fake heat extractors(sp?) that are sunken in to the hood. the 84 capri scoop is the one that alot of first gen guys bolt on for the TII look. 81 is a fake cowl type hood.
any ways me and my buddy deiced to tear both hoods apart and prep them for painting what ever one was in the best shape we where going to use.
i got the 84 hood and brought it home. as soon as i unbolted it the plastic part that was blocking the scoop from working slide out frist thought was no way.
the only problem was around the hole they bent the hood 90 deg up so the was a 3/16 lip to keep it from warping ect. i welded bar stock on the under side and cut the lip of. the heat extractors where just plastic grills sunken in to the hood with 4 screws around the edges. well i put bar stock around the soon to be hole and cut away. i didnt tell my friend i did any of this and the day i got done was the day he gave up on his hood. i showed up and he tried to do every thing i did to make the hood work but didnt brace it. his hood became all wavy ect. he went to school at uti and is a motor guy not a metal guy.
sorry about my first post coming off like you didn't know to brace it ect. i figured id rather sound like a dick / know it all then you mess up a hood.and sorry about this post being long and confusing. it sucks learning the hard way. drives you crazy and cost you money in the end. the way i feel its better to ask stupid noob question's then make mistakes that cost you money.
i dont know if you know what a 81 or a 84 rs turbo capri (mercury fox body)looks like.
well any ways me and my buddy own the car (84). it came with a spare hood from a 81, same hood but different scoop's bolted on. the two hoods have a big hole cut in it but the scoops are for show. they both have two fake heat extractors(sp?) that are sunken in to the hood. the 84 capri scoop is the one that alot of first gen guys bolt on for the TII look. 81 is a fake cowl type hood.
any ways me and my buddy deiced to tear both hoods apart and prep them for painting what ever one was in the best shape we where going to use.
i got the 84 hood and brought it home. as soon as i unbolted it the plastic part that was blocking the scoop from working slide out frist thought was no way.
the only problem was around the hole they bent the hood 90 deg up so the was a 3/16 lip to keep it from warping ect. i welded bar stock on the under side and cut the lip of. the heat extractors where just plastic grills sunken in to the hood with 4 screws around the edges. well i put bar stock around the soon to be hole and cut away. i didnt tell my friend i did any of this and the day i got done was the day he gave up on his hood. i showed up and he tried to do every thing i did to make the hood work but didnt brace it. his hood became all wavy ect. he went to school at uti and is a motor guy not a metal guy.
sorry about my first post coming off like you didn't know to brace it ect. i figured id rather sound like a dick / know it all then you mess up a hood.and sorry about this post being long and confusing. it sucks learning the hard way. drives you crazy and cost you money in the end. the way i feel its better to ask stupid noob question's then make mistakes that cost you money.
#34
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a easy way to mark the hood.
you need 4 lengths of string and some tape and a long yard stick or what ever is straight and long enough to go from fender to fender.
lay the yard stick width way from fender to fender behind the scoop this is the cut line behind the scoop. put strip of tape on your fenders using a edge of the tape to represent the edge of the cut line then do the same for the front. on the sides of the scoop same idea but put the tape on cowl and bumper.
now take the scoop off and put your hood on. now lift the tape up a bit. and tape the string down connecting them fender to fender cowl to bumper. you should have a square outlined by the string where the scoop hole will be.
the dimension of the hole needs to be a little bit farther back behind the scoop because of the way the hood closes, unless your going to have a lift off hood which you could get away with a smaller hood. if you could give me more pictures with dim's i could tell you how much farther back the hole needs to be.
sorry for typing so much but i finale have a chance to help some people out here, since i know more about welding, cutting and bending metal then i know about cars, but iam a fast learner
you need 4 lengths of string and some tape and a long yard stick or what ever is straight and long enough to go from fender to fender.
lay the yard stick width way from fender to fender behind the scoop this is the cut line behind the scoop. put strip of tape on your fenders using a edge of the tape to represent the edge of the cut line then do the same for the front. on the sides of the scoop same idea but put the tape on cowl and bumper.
now take the scoop off and put your hood on. now lift the tape up a bit. and tape the string down connecting them fender to fender cowl to bumper. you should have a square outlined by the string where the scoop hole will be.
the dimension of the hole needs to be a little bit farther back behind the scoop because of the way the hood closes, unless your going to have a lift off hood which you could get away with a smaller hood. if you could give me more pictures with dim's i could tell you how much farther back the hole needs to be.
sorry for typing so much but i finale have a chance to help some people out here, since i know more about welding, cutting and bending metal then i know about cars, but iam a fast learner
Last edited by warwickben; 02-25-08 at 06:30 PM.
#35
Rotary Freak
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Put a clutch on the S/C, get some Aussie police insignia, and you could pass for Mad Max.
In all seriousness, this should look awesome. It will definitely "butch up" the car. Some fender flares and some flat black touches would set it off. You also need some old school hood pins -- not those aerocatch, made for sissies plastic things. You need some "cigarette pack in the T-shirt" ones with the locking pins you could lose if not for the cable retainer.
In all seriousness, this should look awesome. It will definitely "butch up" the car. Some fender flares and some flat black touches would set it off. You also need some old school hood pins -- not those aerocatch, made for sissies plastic things. You need some "cigarette pack in the T-shirt" ones with the locking pins you could lose if not for the cable retainer.
#39
Here's the carb update. I picked up a 800 cfm spreadbore for testing now. This is actually a very very rare piece, it is a numbers matching 1970 gm big block oe carb. Ya see the 850 squarebore double pumper screamed on topend and sustained more boost than the 650, however cruise was compromised due to the large primaries. basically I'd be cruising with the idle circuit as I'd barely be touching the throttle. Installation should be done in a day or two. As for the scoop, completion is still a couple weeks away.
#42
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do you think the scoop will make it sound different.
are you gonna put RX7 on the butterfly valves (don't know what else to call them)
i saw a hot rod that had a one on his supercharger but he put wot on them. kinda funny since when hes wot you wont see them.
are you gonna put RX7 on the butterfly valves (don't know what else to call them)
i saw a hot rod that had a one on his supercharger but he put wot on them. kinda funny since when hes wot you wont see them.
#44
Did a test run with the initial jetting. just a tad rich, but clearance to the top of the air cleaner above the carb is an issue so that is affecting things. Man this carb is sooooooooooo sweet, kicks *** on all my other carbs! The small primaries give wicked driveability and with the huge accelerator pump I can crack wot and have no bogging at all. This carb is gonna be great with the scoop and some rejetting!
#47
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yeah i did that with my car for like 20 mins going to the auto parts store to check out the cooing lines and found out that one of them was not tight enough got coolant all over my windshield. good thing though i could fix it quicker