My clutch seems to lose pressure especially after not driving it for a few days , meaning the pressure needed to push it is lost but improves as i keep driving it....the clutch has given out entirely on hot days as well and stalls letting the clutch out, but only like once then its ok for the rest of the day....just wondering whats going on it? Fluid levels seem to be steady and not changing much, never does

Thanks

 

might wanna check under the boot of the slave cylinder. If's it wet then it's gonna give out sooner or later..

 

I've had my slave replaced too many times to remember.

 

keep an eye on your fluid level. also, check for leaks at the rubber boot on the slave cyl, and at the point the oot meets the cast housing. make sure you check your hose as well. it can do two things, leak or collapse internally. it would be my suggestion that if you were goint to replace one, replace the other. the added pressure from replacing the one will add pressure to the other weak component and ultimatly, the stress put on it will cause it to leak.
are you bleeding the clutch or just pumping it to build pressure? make sure your bleeder screw is tight. don't overtighten though. snug it up. you don't want to break it off.
check for leaks and let us know what you find.

 

Mazdaverx713b is exactly right with replacing both components at once, or rebuilding both at once.

Another quick note is that you can have an internal leak past the MC piston that won't show itself as leaking fluid anywhere. This occurs when the MC piston rubber deteriorates and causes the piston to not 'push' fluid. The result is usually discolored hydraulic fluid in your reservoir, since when the rubber piston corrodes, it releases a black 'soot' that then discolors the clutch fluid. If your fluid looks almost black, I'd say this is a likely indicator that your MC piston has gone.

I can tell when the clutch is dying because you have to 'pump' it up before you drive it when it's been sitting, and when it gets bad (just before it goes out), you'll need to 'pump' it up again after you've been driving it in gear like on the highway. Otherwise, your pedal goes right to the floor and the clutch releases very, very low down - sometimes also causing you to grind synchro's since the tranny is never really disconnected from the engine.

Two choices - rebuild the existing MC using a $12 rebuild kit (BAP), or replace the whole MC at $49 (VB). I opted for the second option, since rebuild kits never seem to last very long, IME. I do keep one around, however, just in case the clutch MC replacement sneaks up on me and requires an immediate, though short-term fix. If you rebuild, make sure that you clean out the MC as thoroughly as you can. Flush it with clean hydraulic fluid, and lube the replacement piston before you install it to avoid damage to the piston seal. And, NEVER reuse your hydraulic fluid. Replace or refill with clean fluid from a freshly opened container.

Clutch master removal is fast, slave can take a bit longer, but both use 14mm bolts and/or nuts. One wrench and a bit of patience, and you're there.

(incidentally, I'm doing this same job today on my SE!)

 

Okay this is what I am getting right now. The car is down at this moment. The fluid is clear. So I think it's the clutch. Where is the best place to get one? How would I go about on replacing it? Cost? Approximate time required? Do you reccommend doing it myself or letting someone else do it?

Thanks

 

Most likely it's the Clutch MC that needs to be replaced, in your case, but without seeing the car, it would be wise to replace both.

VB has the parts for cheap right now - about $49 for the MC (replacement, not rebuild kit), and $29 for the slave. I changed both of mine out this evening (took about 2 hours, but I take my time and clean things as I go). Hardest part is getting under the driver's footwell to get the 2x12mm nuts off of the mounting studs for the MC. Slave goes fast, 2x14mm there.

Once you get the hydraulic lines unhooked, simply pop in the new MC, readjust the pedal travel to 1mm, and then bleed the system by slowly pumping the pedal back and forth until you have all the air cleared out.

Total job time is less than 2 hours if you've done this before. If you're mechanically inclined at all, it's an easy job. Even if you're not, we all had to learn sometime.

Even if the fluid is clear, it could mean that the piston is degraded, or gone. There is a tiny hole (Bypass Oriface) that allows the reservoir fluid to enter the piston area to provide pressure - if yours is clogged up, it can cause pedal pumping but no pressure generated. You can clear this oriface by using a stick pin, but it's way down there at the bottom of the reservoir. Maybe worth a shot, if you're going to be replacing anyway.

Factory Mazda parts are excellent quality and my original MC and slave lasted over 175k miles. The VB replacements will probably go as many more. While I had it apart, I replaced the hydraulic 'soft' line with a SS braided line from Mazdatrix - another $12 well-spent. HTH,

 

If I replace the clutch, what all should I replace? Should I replace the pressure plate and such?

 

resurface or new flywheel, clutch + Pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing and seal. i replaced the master and the slave cylinder and a s/s braided clutch line. sweetnesss

Carl.

 

Is that all? What did you replace?

 

Do you have to remove the flywheel to resurface it?