clutch fluid
#1
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clutch fluid
hey my dad went to start up my 79, and i was just purchesed 2 weeks ago, not looking at the clutch oil we drove it a little, today, the clutch didnt work it felt funny, the oil is down all the way, could you please tell what typoe of oil to get and if this could have hert the car thanks so much
#5
No, the clutch should be fine. If you ran the reservoir dry, you may have to bleed the system from the slave cylinder, though. Also, if the system is leaking, you're going to need to fix that. Most likely the slave cylinder is leaking and will need to be rebuilt or replaced. Check the hose connections also. Good luck.
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well i have decided that i need a new clutch which sucks, when depressing the pedal nothing puts pressure back, is there anything else other then replace thewhole thing, anything small that might fix it, when i buy a new one, should i buy and regualar, or if im going to push the car shoudl i get it upgraded, when i pull the tranny out, is there anything i can do to boost performance, thanks guys you help so much
#7
trainwreck
dude u prolly dont need a new clutch, dont get one yet. Replace your slave cylinder, its 20 bucks, thats exacalty wat happened to mine, the clutch wouldnt engage or anything, get a new slave cylinder from victorie british or soemthing and put it in( 20 mins of work) and tr ythat, then if it doenst owrk get a new clutch
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#8
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Clutch
I've been having clutch trouble myself, when I hold it in for a while (10 - 20 secs often) it starts to slowly mesh the clutch again... And when I release the pedal, it is fully meshed way B4 the pedal is fully let off, then if I leave it off for a few seconds then push it back in again, it works OK again... All I could think it would be is the slave cylinder has small gaps in it where the fliud is leaking out, then it slowly gets sucked back in again or something, because there is no evident fliud loss. The fliud level never changes. I have bled the clutch recently. What do you guys think?
#9
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Replace both the master and slave cylinders at the same time, or the one you leave will go bad within the year, ALWAYS! You can rebuild them both using rebuild kits (duh) . But they will probably last A year or two. So if you have the dough, get both new. If you have to save up to buy peanut butter (been there done that) rebuild em both.
#10
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Originally posted by yayarx7
Replace both the master and slave cylinders at the same time, or the one you leave will go bad within the year, ALWAYS! You can rebuild them both using rebuild kits (duh) . But they will probably last A year or two. So if you have the dough, get both new. If you have to save up to buy peanut butter (been there done that) rebuild em both.
Replace both the master and slave cylinders at the same time, or the one you leave will go bad within the year, ALWAYS! You can rebuild them both using rebuild kits (duh) . But they will probably last A year or two. So if you have the dough, get both new. If you have to save up to buy peanut butter (been there done that) rebuild em both.
#13
Tennis, anyone
The lack of fluid in the CM (clutch master) means the problem is not the clutch itself, so no transmission pulling,,,,yet . Unless you can see a puddle of fluid or where it's leaking from , your system's rubber seals are shot-out and the fluid is by-passing them(going around them)but no fluid means there is a leak. There are 3 pieces that make up the clutch system, master,slave,and the rubber hose. All 3 piece are connected together. You can rebuild the slave and the master, unless you know how to rebuild i would say to buy new parts.When you have the new parts it's important to 'bench' bleed these parts first before installing them. Here's how : Your going to need a bottle of brake fluid,a work bench vise to hold the master, place the master in the vise, connect the hose to the master then the slave to the hose. Fill the master with brake fluid,open the air bleed on the slave. Use a screw driver and 'pump' the master, when fluid comes out the air bleed tighten up the air bleed and dis-assemble all 3 pieces. leave the fluid in the master. Now,
remove the old pieces from the car and install the new stuff. When all is in your going to need to bleed the system 1 last time. For 1 person to do this your going to need a (1) plastic cup (2) a clear piece of hose(from a fish tank)Open the air bleed on the slave and place the clear hose on it,,tight. Fill the plastic cup about 1/4 full with brake fluid and place the other end of the clear hose in the cup, make sure the end is in the fluid, fill the master if it needs it. Now pump the clutch peddel slowly.
The clear hose lets you see the air bubbles pass through it. When you see NO air bubbles tighten up the air bleed on the slave, remove the clear hose and test the clutch peddel. You should have a good peddel now.
Thats it your done,,,,Oh, fill the master if it needs fluid.
Now you done. hope this helps you out.
remove the old pieces from the car and install the new stuff. When all is in your going to need to bleed the system 1 last time. For 1 person to do this your going to need a (1) plastic cup (2) a clear piece of hose(from a fish tank)Open the air bleed on the slave and place the clear hose on it,,tight. Fill the plastic cup about 1/4 full with brake fluid and place the other end of the clear hose in the cup, make sure the end is in the fluid, fill the master if it needs it. Now pump the clutch peddel slowly.
The clear hose lets you see the air bubbles pass through it. When you see NO air bubbles tighten up the air bleed on the slave, remove the clear hose and test the clutch peddel. You should have a good peddel now.
Thats it your done,,,,Oh, fill the master if it needs fluid.
Now you done. hope this helps you out.
#14
Re: Clutch
Originally posted by Parhelius
I've been having clutch trouble myself, when I hold it in for a while (10 - 20 secs often) it starts to slowly mesh the clutch again... And when I release the pedal, it is fully meshed way B4 the pedal is fully let off, then if I leave it off for a few seconds then push it back in again, it works OK again... All I could think it would be is the slave cylinder has small gaps in it where the fliud is leaking out, then it slowly gets sucked back in again or something, because there is no evident fliud loss. The fliud level never changes. I have bled the clutch recently. What do you guys think?
I've been having clutch trouble myself, when I hold it in for a while (10 - 20 secs often) it starts to slowly mesh the clutch again... And when I release the pedal, it is fully meshed way B4 the pedal is fully let off, then if I leave it off for a few seconds then push it back in again, it works OK again... All I could think it would be is the slave cylinder has small gaps in it where the fliud is leaking out, then it slowly gets sucked back in again or something, because there is no evident fliud loss. The fliud level never changes. I have bled the clutch recently. What do you guys think?
I would like to add that if the master or slave cylinder's bores are not pitted, they can be rebuilt to last a lot longer than a year. Sounds like some of you guys aren't doing a proper rebuild job.
#15
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thanks guys, i found my leat and its the slave cylinder, im hopeiung to contact the mazda dealer and get the part buy saturday. i havent had anytime todya to look at it but i will when i wash up, thanks guys you a great help