1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Clutch Disc Opinions

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Old 07-19-09, 06:19 PM
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Clutch Disc Opinions

Well for the second time in 4 months I have to replace my clutch. I fried what was left of the one that came with the car when I bought it down at Deal's gap in April. I just finished an autocross today and destroyed the new one on my last run. What I'm looking for is your opinions on aftermarket clutch discs you have used. Apparently stock quality isn't up to the task of 10/10ths driving.

Not RB's stuff as I need it within the next few days and shipping from them and duties will wind up costing me too much and it will take too long to get here. Not looking to be a cheapskate here, but I unfortunatly only have a couple hundred bucks to spend. I will only be replacing the disc, since the pressure plate is brand spanking new, unless of course it got damaged as well. So let's here what you guys have used, how long they lasted and how hard you are/were on them.

Thanks
Chris
Old 07-20-09, 09:32 AM
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I'm on my second (stock) clutch in 20 years.. and the first take-out was only because I'd already bought a spare before teardown. However, I don't autocross, and my build has generally been stock or stock-plus-header.

Call it 15 active years of spirited street driving & LA commuting, including my original manual-shift learning experiences.
Old 07-20-09, 10:42 AM
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Dude, if you burnt a clutch within a few months then there's one of two things going on:

1. Improper technique (which I doubt, having seen you drive): Using the pedal as a foot rest (even the lightest pressure can cause slippage and burn a clutch), engaging the clutch too slowly, revving the motor too high when engaging, etc.

2. Clutch adjustment (pedal adjustment): At full release the clutch is still not 100% engaged, leading to slippage.

Of course, you could have received a faulty clutch, or maybe your flywheel surface is toast.

I would give Billy a call and see what he can hook you up with. Since they've got an "outlet" in Canadia, you should be able to dodge the extra fees and such. Good luck.

P.S. I have never yet had to replace a clutch due to wear. The old time racer who taught me to drive told me that the secret is to get the clutch pedal out as quickly as possible, with as little slippage as possible, and the clutch will last damn near forever. Being able to do this correctly takes some skill at rev matching, but works great... (and you know from personal experience how I drive) lol..



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Old 07-20-09, 11:23 AM
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Wow I'm new to manual and mine seems fine, I've never seen slippage on it.

http://rx7.com/store/rx7/sadrivetrain_clutch.html

I think it's that bonez one, old owner put it on. I've been driving the car since june 16th or so I guess, I normally rev to 2-3k at first otherwise I'll have to ride it longer which I guess is bad?
Old 07-20-09, 12:25 PM
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Thanks guys. I read a post on "another" forum where a guy experienced the exact same thing I did and his clutch came out in two halves. He said the rivets let go and the pressure plate side completely came off the disc. I just ordered an ACT 6 puck cerametallic disc that should be in around noon tomorrow. I've been having some strange problems leading up to this, where from a takeoff the transmission then the car would shake pretty bad. This didn't happen every time, just randomly really. I was originally thinking it was worn out transmission mount bushings, and still think it's a possibilty and will be replacing the trans mount with another from Mazdatrix eventually, but this recent failure leads me to believe the vibration may have something to do with the clutch. I'll post up pictures of any destruction once I get it pulled out.

I would love to send some business Billy's way, however I need the clutch ASAP so I can get back to work, and the longer I sit here the more money I'm losing. My parts guy can get anything I order within 2 days unless it's special order, and I don't pay shipping. his prices are usually lower than most of the usual parts suppliers in the area. And unfortunately we only save a little bit of money going through RPM Motorsports. Duties are still included, and then I would have to pay to have it ship it to me.

I am very hard on my car. I really do beat the snot out of her. This is just her letting me know that **** parts will not be tolerated. My mantra is, if it breaks, it's not strong enough. If it doesn't break, your not trying hard enough. Also keep in mind this clutch has 4 brutal autocross days in it. Autocross is really the only place I drive the car to it's actual limits. It is only an OEM replacement, not aftermarket, so I doubt it was up to the task of hard launches and the odd under revved downshift.
Old 07-31-09, 11:48 PM
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Get pics of your flywheel's friction surface. Hot spots can develop which are often raised spots that act like a cheese grater on your clutch disc, destroying it quickly.

EDIT:

Just looked at the date of your post, thinking perhaps you got your problem solved by now lol
Old 08-05-09, 12:52 AM
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Actually I completely forgot about this thread. I got the ACT in, and the other one, well it wasn't pretty. I took pics with my phone but I have no idea how to get them on here, so a typed description will have to do. It came out in two pieces. The flywheel side friction material had completely separated from the disc assembly. It was also cracked in two places and worn smooth, which I imagine is from driving the car after it had come apart. The flywheel is still smooth and shows no signs of overheating anywhere. The new clutch is considerably more abrupt but nothing that can't be dealt with and is still very streetable. Seems to be putting the power down a little better too. Going to an autocross in Lansing Mi this weekend so we shall see if this one can take it a little better than a stocker.
Old 08-05-09, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by orion84gsl
Actually I completely forgot about this thread. I got the ACT in, and the other one, well it wasn't pretty. I took pics with my phone but I have no idea how to get them on here, so a typed description will have to do. It came out in two pieces. The flywheel side friction material had completely separated from the disc assembly. It was also cracked in two places and worn smooth, which I imagine is from driving the car after it had come apart. The flywheel is still smooth and shows no signs of overheating anywhere. The new clutch is considerably more abrupt but nothing that can't be dealt with and is still very streetable. Seems to be putting the power down a little better too. Going to an autocross in Lansing Mi this weekend so we shall see if this one can take it a little better than a stocker.
Sounds good, which ACT model did you get? and what flywheel do u use??
Old 08-05-09, 09:09 AM
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I'm using a stock flywheel and pressure plate and the ACT is a 6 puck cerametallic unit. Don't have the part number handy, but it can be found easily on their website by searching for our application. It cost as much alone as the whole stock replacement clutch kit, but if it holds longer it'll be worth it.
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