Clutch Bleeding Q
#1
Got Boost?
Thread Starter
Clutch Bleeding Q
Ok, here's the story. I've got a new clutch for my 13BT beast, so while I was at it, I replaced the all of the hydraulics besides the hardline. I've bled the system the best I know how, but my pedal is still pretty mushy... as soft, or softer than stock. I'm not so sure it's even fully disengaging the clutch. I'm not sure what to do next. Any ideas of things I might be overlooking.
On a side note, I got it started late tonight.... almost started right up, but was idling really low.... I just borrowed a friends digital camera, so pics to come tomorrow, hopefully.
On a side note, I got it started late tonight.... almost started right up, but was idling really low.... I just borrowed a friends digital camera, so pics to come tomorrow, hopefully.
#3
Got Boost?
Thread Starter
Its a Spec Stage 2, kevlar faced clutch, if that helps. If this is how its suppose to feel, its the softest aftermarket clutch capable of holding 400+ Hp I've ever touched.
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
This is how I bleed the clutch, it takes 2 people cause nobody's arms are that long.
I put my mityVac on the slave cylinder bleeder, pump up the mityVac and open the bleeder. As the fluid is being puller thru I keep adding fluid to the CMC. (clutch master cylinder).
After a complete fluid flushing I close the bleeder. Then I get my lovely assistance and have her pump the clutch pedal a few times, and then I have her take her foot off then I open the bleeder (mV still attached with vacuum) I have her push the clutch pedal down and hold it to the floor. At that point I close the bleeder, I repeat several times until all the air is out of the system.
OF course this assumes that you install all of the new componets correctly.
I put my mityVac on the slave cylinder bleeder, pump up the mityVac and open the bleeder. As the fluid is being puller thru I keep adding fluid to the CMC. (clutch master cylinder).
After a complete fluid flushing I close the bleeder. Then I get my lovely assistance and have her pump the clutch pedal a few times, and then I have her take her foot off then I open the bleeder (mV still attached with vacuum) I have her push the clutch pedal down and hold it to the floor. At that point I close the bleeder, I repeat several times until all the air is out of the system.
OF course this assumes that you install all of the new componets correctly.
#6
Tennis, anyone
If your solo , here's how to do it. Take a plastic cup (any clean cup will do ) Next : a piece of fish tank size hose thats clear.Next : open the bleeder on the slave cyl. Next : Take one end of the clear hose and push it on the bleeder, put it on good. Next : pour about a 1/4 cup of brake fluid in the plastic cup Next : place the other end of the clear hose in the cup. ( i use a cloths pin to hold the hose in the cup, make sure the end of the hose is at the bottom of the cup and in the brake fluid ) Next :
Remove the CMC top,add fluid so it's full, Next : Get in the car and pump the clutch pedal a couple of times, the pedal WILL be soft ! then check the CMC and add fluid if it needs it, pump the pedal again, the clear hose allows you to see the air bubbles pass through it, when no bubbles, tighten up the bleeder, and check the pedal presure by pushing the pedal, should be harder or resistance, pull the hose off, top off the CMC, recap the CMC. and thats it !! And of coarse thats with everything installed right.
Remove the CMC top,add fluid so it's full, Next : Get in the car and pump the clutch pedal a couple of times, the pedal WILL be soft ! then check the CMC and add fluid if it needs it, pump the pedal again, the clear hose allows you to see the air bubbles pass through it, when no bubbles, tighten up the bleeder, and check the pedal presure by pushing the pedal, should be harder or resistance, pull the hose off, top off the CMC, recap the CMC. and thats it !! And of coarse thats with everything installed right.
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Hey what ever method works for you.
I have used a MityVac for years (retails for about $25) for bleeding the brake system and clutch system.
I do it annual on all my cars to remove any dirt/moisture, and the MV makes it easy for 1 person to flush the entire brake system in about 10 minutes, if you have the tires already off for tire rotation.
My .02¢
John
I have used a MityVac for years (retails for about $25) for bleeding the brake system and clutch system.
I do it annual on all my cars to remove any dirt/moisture, and the MV makes it easy for 1 person to flush the entire brake system in about 10 minutes, if you have the tires already off for tire rotation.
My .02¢
John
#9
Got Boost?
Thread Starter
I need to get some clear hose, I think that would help. I am pretty sure the hydraulics are devoid of air though.
I think I have the clutch pedal play set OK, but could that have some effect on the pedal being soft, or the clutch not fully disengaging?
I think I have the clutch pedal play set OK, but could that have some effect on the pedal being soft, or the clutch not fully disengaging?
#10
Are you gonna shift?!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 602
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use a 20 oz pop bottle. Just drill a hole in the cap, fill it up about halfway with brake fluid, and stick a hose in through the hole and into the fluid. Try and find a hose that is around the same size as the nipple for the slave cyl. I also bled mine by myself using a crowbar. I'd pump the pedal a few times and hold it with my foot and put a crowbar in place to hold the clutch as I got out of the car. Then I'd loosen the slave's valve, watch the air bubbles, shut the valve and then repeat the whole process. It may take a little longer but it worked and I havn't had any problems since. How do you know you're clutch isn't disengaging? About the pedal being soft...my Centerforce stage 2 clutch is so soft that I can push the pedal down with my pointer finger. It holds up to 400 HP just fine.
#12
Got Boost?
Thread Starter
Interesting, I always thought aftermarket clutches were designed to have a slightly heavier feel...
I'll try again to see if the clutch is disengaging. I just replaced the slave, the one that came on the transmission had a bent bleeder, and I think it was leaking slightly. Before that, even after bleeding it many times the car wouldn't roll down the driveway while in gear. It is a tad bit stiffer with the new slave, so maybe its OK. It just feels a bit limp.
I'll try again to see if the clutch is disengaging. I just replaced the slave, the one that came on the transmission had a bent bleeder, and I think it was leaking slightly. Before that, even after bleeding it many times the car wouldn't roll down the driveway while in gear. It is a tad bit stiffer with the new slave, so maybe its OK. It just feels a bit limp.
Last edited by fatboy7; 08-20-03 at 12:35 PM.
#13
Yeah, shutup kid.
Did you bench bleed the new cylinder before installing? I'm not sure if you need to with the clutch cylinder, but I know you do with the brake master or else it takes a while for the cylinder to start working right.
#15
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
The clutch master cylinder is no different than the brake master cylinder. The stroke of the pedal rod in the car is by design not intended to go from one end of the master cylinder to the other in a complete 100% effective stroke. You would destroy the soft parts in a hurry and have a service life of 50 miles or so on a rebuild. That means the master cylinder of either the clutch or brake system has to be bled on the bench where you, the human operator, can apply a stroke long enough to completely purge it of any air safely.
#16
Tennis, anyone
Priming is what it's called. The same with the brake master cyl. before installing either piece in the car.
Use a vise to hold the master cyl.(s) fill up with brake fluid, and use a screw driver or what ever and push (pump) the piston in and out. I use screw-in plugs for the brake master (where the hardlines go ). For the clutch use the slave,hose,and CMC,connected together
and 'prime' the system. It's easy.
Use a vise to hold the master cyl.(s) fill up with brake fluid, and use a screw driver or what ever and push (pump) the piston in and out. I use screw-in plugs for the brake master (where the hardlines go ). For the clutch use the slave,hose,and CMC,connected together
and 'prime' the system. It's easy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
The1Sun
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
09-18-15 07:13 PM