Cleaning an engine
10-12-03, 11:37 AM
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Cleaning an engine
Search doesn't work yet and I wanna clean my engine...its kinda dirty... 
Anyways, I saw some spray on stuff that degreases the engine but it had so many warnings on it I got scared to get it.
What are some ways to safely clean your engines and does anyone have before and after pix?
I've got my before and would like to have an after that looks like this...(or at least close to it)
(thanks for the inspiration Manntis)
Anyways, I saw some spray on stuff that degreases the engine but it had so many warnings on it I got scared to get it.
What are some ways to safely clean your engines and does anyone have before and after pix?
I've got my before and would like to have an after that looks like this...(or at least close to it)
(thanks for the inspiration Manntis)
Last edited by inittab; 10-30-03 at 10:19 AM.
10-12-03, 12:23 PM
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I wish my engine bays looked like that (from Manntis) also!!
I suspect many of those warnings are really intended, by their lawyers, to limit legal liability. All the good stuff was taken off the market years ago due to EPA and California enviroNAZIs.
Think about it...there is probably nothing more corrosive and vicious than break fluid (takes paint right off). Most 19-23 year old cars have replaced the brake or clutch cylinders at least once. If break fluid didn't destroy it...you probably won't either.
What I do is drive to a car wash, put in quarters, douse it with the degreaser (or tire cleaner if the EnviroNAZIs coerced them into dropping the degreaser), then rinse it off with the pressure rinse.
Risks:
Pressure water causes something to break (it was probably on last legs anyway)
Water seeps into distributor and you have to remove it and dry it off (properly setup distributor should not have this problem, i.e. dialectric grease in boots, etc.)
Bring the tools to remove the distributor or cover it with a plastic bag.
I always have a chase car...just in case.
As for looking shiny...the used car dealers spray some lacquer or light oil over everything. I don't think you should do that - that is just bad juju.
Just clean it, and then start hand-cleaning or replacing/painting rusty parts as you pull them for other reasons.
There are books on detailing that talk about tumbling nuts and bolts, etc...that is just too much work for a functioning car. Cleaning the engine bay every 2-3 months keeps it looking remarkably clean and new.
I suspect many of those warnings are really intended, by their lawyers, to limit legal liability. All the good stuff was taken off the market years ago due to EPA and California enviroNAZIs.
Think about it...there is probably nothing more corrosive and vicious than break fluid (takes paint right off). Most 19-23 year old cars have replaced the brake or clutch cylinders at least once. If break fluid didn't destroy it...you probably won't either.
What I do is drive to a car wash, put in quarters, douse it with the degreaser (or tire cleaner if the EnviroNAZIs coerced them into dropping the degreaser), then rinse it off with the pressure rinse.
Risks:
Pressure water causes something to break (it was probably on last legs anyway)
Water seeps into distributor and you have to remove it and dry it off (properly setup distributor should not have this problem, i.e. dialectric grease in boots, etc.)
Bring the tools to remove the distributor or cover it with a plastic bag.
I always have a chase car...just in case.
As for looking shiny...the used car dealers spray some lacquer or light oil over everything. I don't think you should do that - that is just bad juju.
Just clean it, and then start hand-cleaning or replacing/painting rusty parts as you pull them for other reasons.
There are books on detailing that talk about tumbling nuts and bolts, etc...that is just too much work for a functioning car. Cleaning the engine bay every 2-3 months keeps it looking remarkably clean and new.
10-12-03, 04:41 PM
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Originally posted by QuagmireMan
what is that an image of??
what is that an image of??
well its in his sig right under the info :P
1974 Pantera 583 rwhp with more mods than I care to list.
10-13-03, 12:53 AM
#6
Go to the auto parts store and buy "engine degreaser" Don't use the foamy stuff, it doesn't work as well.
Cover up distributor, alternator, fusable link box, battery, air filter with plastic grocery bags, spray away, scrub with a nylon brush and toothbrush wehre needed. Rinse. Repeat.
Cover up distributor, alternator, fusable link box, battery, air filter with plastic grocery bags, spray away, scrub with a nylon brush and toothbrush wehre needed. Rinse. Repeat.
10-13-03, 12:56 AM
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TT 1st gen ? We'll see !
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I know we should do this but ... for the hood, I used gunk ... you can also use this for the engine BUT !!!
u must REALLY rinse of the engine .. life with a hose or something .. cuz this stuff catches fire if too hot :P
I did the underneeth of the hood with it , turned out excellent !
20 yrs of crap cam right off !
Eric
u must REALLY rinse of the engine .. life with a hose or something .. cuz this stuff catches fire if too hot :P
I did the underneeth of the hood with it , turned out excellent !
20 yrs of crap cam right off !
Eric
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10-13-03, 10:44 AM
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I have used Greased Lightning and Simple Green to degrease my engine (85 SE). I like the Simple Green better since it does not leave a film the way the other brand does and it is not as heavy a chemical as petro based cleaners. About 2 of 3 times it does not start and floods causing bigger problems and inconvenience. I covered the items listed above such as alternator, distributor, battery, and fusible links located near battery and it still will not start after spraying out with a water hose. What else could be getting wet and causing it to not start? It seems some unknown electrical connection is getting wet and causing it to flood as gas gets dumped into the engine with the electrical connection broken. Any ideas as to what else I can cover or what is getting wet? What does a steam clean cost and what type shops do them?
10-13-03, 11:15 AM
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James, take some water, and while the car is running, pour it on the block around the injectors. If the car starts to chug chug chug, they might be getting wet. If so, replace your injector O-rings and you're done.
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