bbutchart@carolina.rr.com

I have a 1985 gsl-se. 13 b 6port, 199,000 miles, 86 transmission, centerforce clutch, accel coils, magnacor wires, ngk plugs, hi flow cat and muffler, k&n filter, no major mods. I use haynes manuals and have all manuals downloaded. Drove fine last time I was in it. Now it wont start. I had let a potential buyer of the car get in the drivers seat and thought he may have pressed the gas and flooded it. At first I did unflood procedure with plugs removed and found it wasnt flooded. -no carbon or hydro lock observed-
I do have spark and have put in new plugs.
Put in new battery.
Engine has compression based on sound test with plugs removed.
I have zero volts at the fuel pump when cranking but not 100% sure my DMM was getting a good signal.
I've checked resistance at the ignitors and air flow meter and they are good.
I checked the coils and distributor and they are good.
Fuel pump will run with jumper straight from battery.
After testing fuel pump with battery and after pressing afm door, the car started right up for 1-2 sec then died.
Tried jumping COR and pump didnt run with key on or start.
tried jumping fuel cut relay terminal behind airbox, pump didnt run during key on or start.
I am going to try jumping the terminals at the afm today.
Also plan on rechecking all major grounds today.

I tested the volts at the circuit opening relay when cranking. The power wire into the relay was around 8.5 volts, the fuel pump wire and ecu wire into the relay showed the same. the airflow meter gave an initial signal around a few volts that dropped while cranking. Im not sure why Im only getting 8 or so volts at this relay and not sure if relay is bad. I tried jumping the relay but it still wont start. I want to test the relay - Does anyone know what the resistance values are for the COR?

mjm4jc

It seems odd that when you put battery power to the pump, it started for a few secs. Try grounding out the fuel pump plug (brown connector by AFM) with the key on and you should hear the pump running. That's a pretty good indication that you don't have an electrical issue with the pump. Also check the AFM. The pump only works when cranking, but that's due to the position of the flapper in the AFM. If the flapper is hanging up, the fuel pump won't work. If that checks ok, I would then do a fuel volume/pressure test.

I'm no expert on these cars, so I'm hoping that another forum member who knows a lot more than me can validate my advice or correct me if I'm wrong.

Mike

bbutchart@carolina.rr.com

what i meant was after I tested the fuel pump with straight line from battery, then reconnected pump back to car and started it, it ran a for 1-2 seconds because of the little fuel it pumped while I tested it. I did jumper the wire you mentioned and pump wouldnt run. I just jumpered the terminals at the afm and pump didnt run when key was on but car started for 1-2 seconds then died.
new battery is putting out 12.14 volts per DMM, but the battery meter in the dash says less than 12 with key on / engine off; so right now Im cleaning the major grounds and making sure there is a good connection at grounds using wire brush, etc. I used some spray cleaner (sea foam petroleum) to knock off some of the gunk near these grounds also. It will be dry soon and I'll try again. After reading another thread Im thinking it could be the afm door switch.
Im not sure if it could be a bad fusible link, Ive checked them and no obvious visual damage - does anyone know a way to test a fusible link? or do you just test for volts when cranking?

mjm4jc

Yes, you are not getting power to the pump. When you do the jumper wire test on the pulg by the AFM with the key on, have someone else mess with the flapper in the AFM and see what happens. You are jumping the correct plug, right? It's not the plug that's connects to the AFM. It's the brownish plug that just hangs off the harness that goes to the AFM. Let me know what you find.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Test the fusible links for continuity, it's that simple. If they show no continuity, replace with the 2nd gen fuses.

bbutchart@carolina.rr.com

thanks guys. the fusible links were ok. I rechecked the fuel pump with straight line from battery and this time nothing! I should have done a volume test earlier but last time I checked it sounded like it was running strong and pumped some fuel to the injectors..so the fuel pump was on the fritz. this explains why all my other checks were leaving me stumped. I thank everyone for there tips this website is great. I will remove the pump and check it again but almost sure its gone. I looked at replacements - cheapest in my area is airtex brand - anyone ever install one of these in their 7?

mjm4jc

no, but I hear the airtex pumps are as good as the bosch. I believe both are considered to be OEM replacements.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I have used airtex as well as bosch. Both work just fine.

rmauser

I have a similar question: Where is the Circuit Openning Relay located? I have the diagram from the FSM, and I've looked where it looks like it is located (under the dash, right next to the ECU and the radio on the passenger's side) and I can't find it anywhere Nor the ECU. Does anyone know exactly where it is, and how to get to it? I'm exasperated.

Reason why I'm asking: Usually my car will start, but sometimes it won't (starter is working). It once died while backing down my driveway, then days later, it starts like nothing ever was wrong. I've installed a new fuel pump, cap, rotor, plugs & wires.

Pulled both top plugs to see that both were 'dry', indicating no gas...? I'm thinking it is the relay, but exactly where is it located (and the ECU too)? How to I get to it? I have an '85 GSL-SE, 13B engine .....

mjm4jc

The ECU is located under the passenger side front carpet. remove the long trim panel on the inside, bottom door channel along with the kick panel, which, I believe, houses the little front speaker. Then pull the carpet out of the way, and you will see a fairly large metal plate/panel. Remove the plate, and the ECU is right there.

rmauser

mjm4jc,

Thank you, thank you, thank you! I found it, opened it up (the metal plate cover is rusted along the bottom edge, but everything under it looks clean. I started the engine (it started this time) and with the cover off, could hear and feel the relay working. I guess I'll leave it off until the car won't start, then see if the relay is working. Then, I'll know if the bad connection is before or after the relay....

Richard