Chilton manual + rotary = worthless!! LOL
03-19-06, 08:34 PM
#1
Chilton manual + rotary = worthless!! LOL
The more I read into this manual, the more I realize how worthless it really is! Okay, take this for example...
Compression Test:
"The conventional compression gauges that are used for gasoline and diesel engines are not suitable for use on a rotary engine, as they only measure the highest pressure of the three combustion chambers in the rotary housing. To accurately determine compression pressure on rotary engines, a special electronic compression tester (49-F018-9A0) is required. This piece of test equipment reads the compression of all three combustion chambers."
It also says that there is a plate you have to remove behind the driver side seat under the carpet to gain access to the fuel pump. Whoever was in charge of covering the Rx-7 needs to be kicked.
Anyways, does anybody know which fuse to pull to disable the coils?
Thanks!
Justin
Compression Test:
"The conventional compression gauges that are used for gasoline and diesel engines are not suitable for use on a rotary engine, as they only measure the highest pressure of the three combustion chambers in the rotary housing. To accurately determine compression pressure on rotary engines, a special electronic compression tester (49-F018-9A0) is required. This piece of test equipment reads the compression of all three combustion chambers."
It also says that there is a plate you have to remove behind the driver side seat under the carpet to gain access to the fuel pump. Whoever was in charge of covering the Rx-7 needs to be kicked.
Anyways, does anybody know which fuse to pull to disable the coils?
Thanks!
Justin
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03-19-06, 10:42 PM
#9
I had a chilton for my 89 ranger and for an 87 thunderbird turbocoupe when I was doing the turbo swap in my ranger, I found that the wiring diagrams were useless. Unfortunately nobody around here sells the haynes that I am aware of, I will probably be ordering one for the mazda soon...wouldn't mind having a FSM also.
03-20-06, 12:42 AM
#10
Resident Weasel
Originally Posted by Kim's FB
J/K! Although my FSM has crappy pics, that's ok cause I also have the Haynes.
03-20-06, 02:18 AM
#12
Hunting Skylines
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Originally Posted by Roundabout
I was focusing more on the three combustion chambers... how does that work?
The only way it will work is if you remove that valve that holds the pressure (called a Schroeder valve) and carefully watch the dial on each individual pulse.
03-20-06, 02:35 AM
#13
Yeah, think about it this way:
If one of your apex seals is cracked/stuck/whatever, then two of your chambers wouldn't show compression (because the compressed air would leak from one chamber into the other past the bad seal). But the third chamber (rotor face, but mazda calls them "working chambers" to be technical) has a good apex seal on both sides of it, so it *would* show compression. With the conventional gauge and this example, it would read the highest reading (full compression) but the engine itself actually warrants a rebuild.
Jon
If one of your apex seals is cracked/stuck/whatever, then two of your chambers wouldn't show compression (because the compressed air would leak from one chamber into the other past the bad seal). But the third chamber (rotor face, but mazda calls them "working chambers" to be technical) has a good apex seal on both sides of it, so it *would* show compression. With the conventional gauge and this example, it would read the highest reading (full compression) but the engine itself actually warrants a rebuild.
Jon
03-20-06, 09:32 AM
#14
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
Originally Posted by aussiesmg
Its more of a grommet than a plate and its easier from below but.....
As for the compression test its actually right.
As for the compression test its actually right.
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