The more I read into this manual, the more I realize how worthless it really is! Okay, take this for example...
Compression Test:

"The conventional compression gauges that are used for gasoline and diesel engines are not suitable for use on a rotary engine, as they only measure the highest pressure of the three combustion chambers in the rotary housing. To accurately determine compression pressure on rotary engines, a special electronic compression tester (49-F018-9A0) is required. This piece of test equipment reads the compression of all three combustion chambers."

It also says that there is a plate you have to remove behind the driver side seat under the carpet to gain access to the fuel pump. Whoever was in charge of covering the Rx-7 needs to be kicked.

Anyways, does anybody know which fuse to pull to disable the coils?
Thanks!
Justin

 

The compression test is correct. the fuel pump is kind of correct, you have to get back there to get to part of the wiring.

 

Its more of a grommet than a plate and its easier from below but.....

As for the compression test its actually right.

 

I was focusing more on the three combustion chambers... how does that work?
how does the rotary tester differ from a conventional one?

 

I have both the chiltons and the haynes

The Chiltons has pictures where the Haynes doesn't

So it isn't completely worthless

 

okay okay, I digress

 

get the Mazda shop manual..screw the Haynes and Chilton

 

J/K! Although my FSM has crappy pics, that's ok cause I also have the Haynes.

 

I had a chilton for my 89 ranger and for an 87 thunderbird turbocoupe when I was doing the turbo swap in my ranger, I found that the wiring diagrams were useless. Unfortunately nobody around here sells the haynes that I am aware of, I will probably be ordering one for the mazda soon...wouldn't mind having a FSM also.

 

yes im stupid..however im less stupid now that someone is with me...j/k

 

I have all three!!!

 

Each housing has three seperate rotor faces which means three seperate compression readings. A conventional compression tester will hold the highest reading so you won't know what the compression is on the other two faces.

The only way it will work is if you remove that valve that holds the pressure (called a Schroeder valve) and carefully watch the dial on each individual pulse.

 

Yeah, think about it this way:

If one of your apex seals is cracked/stuck/whatever, then two of your chambers wouldn't show compression (because the compressed air would leak from one chamber into the other past the bad seal). But the third chamber (rotor face, but mazda calls them "working chambers" to be technical) has a good apex seal on both sides of it, so it *would* show compression. With the conventional gauge and this example, it would read the highest reading (full compression) but the engine itself actually warrants a rebuild.

Jon

 

79 and 80 does not have bins so you have to remove a "plate" to get the wiring under there.