Why the aluminum top / steel bottom? Trying to mimic the height of the original mount?

 

Yes. From what I read around here, that is something you need to do, and is necessary to get the motor/mount to sit in it's proper position. A lot of people just just multiple washers to achieve this, but I got this idea from Jeff20b.

One thing I would recommend to anyone looking at my design, I would make the top plate have a little larger diameter than the puck. When I tightened it down, the top kind of "sank" into the puck. I don't see this being an issue, and I will keep my eye on it, but if it were larger around than the puck, then it couldn't happen regardless.

 

I don't know how you guys do it.... we have an FD at the shop right now with hockey puck mounts and the NVH is horrible. And this is coming from a guy with a full 4 inch exhaust and 12k/10k suspension

 

Huh. I'm running pucks just like the ones in this thread in my FB and my REPU, and the vibration isn't really any worse than with Mazda competition mounts. There must be something wrong with the FD's mounts.

 

Since you're seeing obvious compression of the hockey puck, you have what's known as a "soft joint". Without going into fastener theory, my advice is that you should use a second "jam nut" like Glazed Ham did. The lockwasher likely won't hold over time in that setup.

 

I love your student version of autocad.

 

I remember this being old. Did someone move this over and change the dates or is this thread new? Anyone up north wanna get me some of these pucks and ship em too me, we dont get much ice hockey in Texas.

 

Scrap half of that I see what happened now.

 

You can buy the pucks on Amazon if you can't find them locally.

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Guard-Offi...0949588&sr=8-2

 

Thanks, don't know why I didn't think of that.

Edit: oh right, 10 bucks for shipping is a tad extreme.

 

You can probably find them cheaper elsewhere if you look around, but yeah, that's why it's better to buy them locally if you can. Still, it beats $100+shipping for Mazda competition mounts from Racing Beat.

 

Very good point and from what I understand the pucks are stiffer. Thinking back I actually saw these same pucks on amazon back in July and it was the same deal $2 a puck and $5 for shipping per puck. I'm gonna poke around some on ebay and see what I can find.

 

i bought aluminium mounts for my FB and absolutely love them..... the car is extremely smooth between shifts now! not bad for $40

 

I paid less then 10 bucks total for my hockey puck mounts..Pucks are a buck a piece at the local hockey store, the bolts nuts and steel were dirt cheap.. and I even paid 5 dollars to have a metal shop to stamp the corners off the metal into octogons... I threw some flat black powder on them and voila! I could never justify buying another mount for my car again.. especially when they only cost $2 to replace! Easy to do, and I love showing them off!

 

I've heard that solid mounts will rattle your teeth out lol, kinda tempted to go solid but hockey pucks seem more comfortable. TEXAS, what you know about ice? lol There might be one place but its way far away from me, I'm out there a few times a week just keep forgetting to check in and see if they'd have them.

 

I was just thinking about doing this the other day before I came across this thread. I have also used them for bumpstops on my rock crawler.

 

What size bolts did you use for this? I want to do this to mine, that motor rocks like a dingy in a stormy sea.

 

landon (forum member) makes this kit, or sells the tranny mount or engine mounts separate. FB Solid Drivetrain Mount Kit if none of you guys have checked his site out, he makes some cool stuff and is a great dude in general.

 

I ended up swapping my oem motor mounts today with some hockey pucks. Some vibration at idle but during normal driving you can barely notice it under 2k and it feels smooth after that.
Removing the oem mounts was a little tricky. I hoisted up the engine and worked them out. Bolts are 2.5" long and 3/8" thick. I doubled up on the nuts cause I couldn't find any lock nuts.
Anyways, here are some pics:

 

Hockey pucks in a 1st gen or anything 85 and older (REPU, RX-4 etc) work exceptionally well and are cheaper than Mazda's competition mounts.

There is one place to not skimp though, and that is the trans mount. Be sure to get a competition trans mount from Racing Beat, or at the very least get a new OEM trans mount. Nothing like having stiff motor mounts and a separated trans mount to ruin your day.

 

I've wanted to do this many times in the past but always wondered how the pucks handle the heat of the engine? Any insight?

 

They handle heat fine. The outer edge will crack a little but there is a lot of material so I'm not worried about it. Hockey pucks will last years in an engine bay. And they are cheap to replace if they ever need to be.

 

I guess you could always use that cup part of the OEM motor mount and put it over the hockey pucks to shield them if you are concerned about heat. I just used a thin piece of metal to even out the pressure and give it the right height. Plus these pucks are much lighter than the OEM ones haha. Like 0.5Lbs weight savings

They've been on my car now for a few weeks and i'm totally used to them. I'm very impressed. Engine response is up / more feel from the engine.