cheapest place for hawk pads
cheapest place for hawk pads
wheres the cheapest place for hawk hp pads? i was going to get them from shox.com, and it said for the rears 84-85, and that makes me think they are for the gslse, but the fronts are for 81-85. racing beat is EXPENSIVE. anyone have a good place they recommend?
edit. they are for a gsl
edit. they are for a gsl
www.shox.com sells hawk pads, I think it's $45 for a set of fronts, and $45 for a set of rears. They don't say what kind of hawks they are, but you should be able to call them and check.
Call Jagged Racing...
Doug and I grew up together, and he's given me some REALLY good prices on parts.
Just call him, and tell him you're a friend of Evan's.
309.275.0622
Doug and I grew up together, and he's given me some REALLY good prices on parts.
Just call him, and tell him you're a friend of Evan's.
309.275.0622
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HIGHLY recommend running stock rear pads, otherwise you will tend to lock the rears up prematurely.
Most of your braking is done in the front, so unless you are running a brake propotional valve to controll how much rear brakes are applied.
Plus your brakl rotors in the rear are going to last longer with a softer pad.
AutoX I run Hawk HP+ in the front and Autozone stock type compound in the rear. Works great.
Remember for the best braking performace replace your pads when they get down to no more than 50%
John
Most of your braking is done in the front, so unless you are running a brake propotional valve to controll how much rear brakes are applied.
Plus your brakl rotors in the rear are going to last longer with a softer pad.
AutoX I run Hawk HP+ in the front and Autozone stock type compound in the rear. Works great.
Remember for the best braking performace replace your pads when they get down to no more than 50%
John
Last time I bought pads for the race car, www.raceshopper.com was a couple of bucks cheaper for blues than Mazda Motorsports...not sure if this is also true for the HPs.
Stock rears are a nice compromise if you don't have a bias valve. They are also cheap.
Stock rears are a nice compromise if you don't have a bias valve. They are also cheap.
Cheap hawk pads?
Drop me an Email..any of you guys.
POterfield, Hawk, PFC..
jeff.mohler@signasys.com <--work addr I watch more often
Let me try.

I should be able to whup on most retailers.
Drop me an Email..any of you guys.
POterfield, Hawk, PFC..
jeff.mohler@signasys.com <--work addr I watch more often
Let me try.

I should be able to whup on most retailers.
No probs, just a note to others, I watch Email more than I watch forums..so thats bestest!
I see im a lowly exhaust leak.

Do I get any street cred for leading my Pro7 class this year at 110lbs over min weight? Im a big guy, after creatively gutting the dash (pad has to remain) and a few other things, I'll be lucky to get within 60lbs of spec.
I see im a lowly exhaust leak.

Do I get any street cred for leading my Pro7 class this year at 110lbs over min weight? Im a big guy, after creatively gutting the dash (pad has to remain) and a few other things, I'll be lucky to get within 60lbs of spec.
Guys:
Ive had like 5 people ask me for Hawk Blue race pads, and then come back with Shox.com's price for hawk performance pads.
Pay attention..
Shox.com sells Hawk HPS *ick* pads, these are not Hawk Blue/9012 compound pads.
There -is- a hefty price difference.
Ive had like 5 people ask me for Hawk Blue race pads, and then come back with Shox.com's price for hawk performance pads.
Pay attention..
Shox.com sells Hawk HPS *ick* pads, these are not Hawk Blue/9012 compound pads.
There -is- a hefty price difference.
Speedtoy, there is a heafty differnce in the price and the tempature they work best at. No one wants to use the blus onthe street.
onepointone, if you got to the Mazdaspeed website you can get the details on registering as a contingecy racer (which is how you get the inexpensive parts).
onepointone, if you got to the Mazdaspeed website you can get the details on registering as a contingecy racer (which is how you get the inexpensive parts).
No..I understand.
Just that a handful of people have been asking me specifically for BLUE pads, and then coming back with "Shox has em for $50"...just letting others know that Blue != HPS.
And last I checked, I had em cheaper than Mazdaspeed. At least thats why a number of the SM and PRO7/PS7 people buy them from me.
I'd considered registering with MS..for the 2 or 3 things they have for me as a racer of a mazda, but..I was able to find the same stuff cheaper elsewhere.
With a captive audience, and doing things 'for the racers cuz we love em' Id expect to see more agressive pricing and product lines.
PLEASE mazdaspeed, convince NASA/others to stop using crap tokico struts for racing, I dont like replacing them 2 or 3 times a year.
Just that a handful of people have been asking me specifically for BLUE pads, and then coming back with "Shox has em for $50"...just letting others know that Blue != HPS.
And last I checked, I had em cheaper than Mazdaspeed. At least thats why a number of the SM and PRO7/PS7 people buy them from me.
I'd considered registering with MS..for the 2 or 3 things they have for me as a racer of a mazda, but..I was able to find the same stuff cheaper elsewhere.
With a captive audience, and doing things 'for the racers cuz we love em' Id expect to see more agressive pricing and product lines.
PLEASE mazdaspeed, convince NASA/others to stop using crap tokico struts for racing, I dont like replacing them 2 or 3 times a year.
What if you have FRONT lock up problems? My 85 S locks the fronts in the wet with suicidaly low brake pressure and will do so when dry if I can push the pedal hard enough. No combination of (conventional) pads seems to help and the 85's weird double front brake lines precludes easy adjustable prop valve install.
I'm getting tired of this and willing to try Hawks on the rear; if they lock I'll just put a prop valve on them...
Sanspistons for better braking
I'm getting tired of this and willing to try Hawks on the rear; if they lock I'll just put a prop valve on them...
Sanspistons for better braking
Well, if youre in a street car, use a pad that is less agressive initially, perhaps a porterfield R4-S pad..$68+S&H.
For the rears..i installed a residual pressure valve for the rears, and they come on before ALL of the weight moves forward, and it 'feels better' to me.
I dont have much problem with locking the rears since I stopped doing heavy braking with the clutch in..I let the motor help keep the rear turning, worst case..I screw up and boil some rubber back there..BUT the wheels are still turning, no flat spot.
The Hawk street pads are ok..but are hard on rotors, very hard, and the HP+ dust like a storm.
For the rears..i installed a residual pressure valve for the rears, and they come on before ALL of the weight moves forward, and it 'feels better' to me.
I dont have much problem with locking the rears since I stopped doing heavy braking with the clutch in..I let the motor help keep the rear turning, worst case..I screw up and boil some rubber back there..BUT the wheels are still turning, no flat spot.
The Hawk street pads are ok..but are hard on rotors, very hard, and the HP+ dust like a storm.
Last edited by Speedtoy; Jul 8, 2004 at 11:43 PM.
Thanks for the advice, Speedtoy. I have an entire brake system replacement scheduled soon; have a set of Bendix front pads which I know are very hard wearing to alleviate the symptoms. I'll definitely check out the Porterfields. My car is drive to work with an occasional autocross; no problem with track day overheating.
Not sure about the residual pressure valve you are suggesting; I have a disk brake rear out of a GSL but are still running the drum master cylinder (didn't change a thing...). Are you running drums? I thought that these valves would keep the rear pads always on the disks? Please ellucidate.
Sanspistons and sans-rear-lockup
Not sure about the residual pressure valve you are suggesting; I have a disk brake rear out of a GSL but are still running the drum master cylinder (didn't change a thing...). Are you running drums? I thought that these valves would keep the rear pads always on the disks? Please ellucidate.
Sanspistons and sans-rear-lockup
No..im not running drums for the racing stuff.
The valves keep 2psi in the rear of the system..not really enough to drag MUCH..if at all, it just gives rear braking a little head start..before I dump all the weight to the front of the car...
My butt-meter says the pedal was a tad better too, less overall travel.
The valves keep 2psi in the rear of the system..not really enough to drag MUCH..if at all, it just gives rear braking a little head start..before I dump all the weight to the front of the car...
My butt-meter says the pedal was a tad better too, less overall travel.




