What else could be done to my car to get some extra power out of it, without tearing the engine down or anything like that?

So far i have:
Headers
Full custom 2 1/4 exhaust
1 cat ( Just for this year, Last year of Emmisions)
Blaster 2 coils
Intake
Race Wires (solid Cable)
A little bit of weight reduction
That's about it i believe

Also, How much power do you guys think that taking out that one cat will make?

 

So far the major add on i have done is the msd box and the coils and it made it rather mean. i love it with the red box of fire under the hood. Yaw power has a good outline on how to do it.

 

For the car in the picture, you can add trememdous speed by reducing drag... No this isn't going to have anything to do with aerodynamics, the drag I'm talking about is between the undercarriage and the ground. There is also some drag between the wheel wells and tires.

Put the springs back on the car and you should be golden.

(I know it's just a joke pic.)

 

If its a 12A, I'd say either the MSD 6A (6AL) or a Yaw modded carb.

If youve got a 13B....... I've got no idea.

 

how about this dildfs or whatever its called that everyone "was" talking about??

 

What do you mean by "intake"? Just a drop in K&N or a full custom CAI? Some type of CAI will help, if you don't have it already.

What kind of weight reduction? Power steering, A/C, air pump, speaker box, lighter battery, etc.


Advance your timing a bit.

These will help a little bit, but not like a street port .

 

I have a CAI, and the weight reduction was A/C, Power Steering, A **** load of heat shields that had rusted , that stuff under the carpet for sound proof. and an aluminum spare.

Eventually i would like to street port but not until i really do have to rebuild the engine.

 

ok i have looked and i have a problem wich is better msd or dflsd or whatever some guys claims that works better. i talked ot paul yaw and he swears the msd id better. Any tested this out or have any opions??

 

i cannot spell so please understand that the typos are due to personal stupidity but has any tested out to see which ignition system is better?

 

Yes, a guy on the Mazspeed.com forum performed back to back dyno runs using DLIDFIS, MSD direct fire and also with the MSD running through the dizzy cap. This was on a stock port engine with a Yaw carb and free flowing exhaust. Both MSD setups out-performed DLIDFIS with the direct fire coming out on top. BTW, carb jetting and ignition timing was not optimized for each igntion setup but I doubt it would have made much difference.

 

thanks i wanted to know before i blew money on a msd that was not a good investment. Sorta new to this type of motor and i learn more everyday i read this forum.

 

I wonder what Jeff20B will say about this.

 

The guy that ran the dyno tests wondered out loud if his comparisons could still be valid since he didn't optimize the carb and timing for each setup. Jeff20B pointed out a little later that, with his DLIDFIS system, he had to back out some advance in order to get back some lost horseys. Who's to say that a similar change in timing wouldn't have kicked out 5 to 8 more HP? Bump a 455 Pontiac's adv to 40' BTDC and you'll lose 15 to 20 horseys just like that. Take 3 degrees out and it all comes back. The dyno tests were run 4 degrees more than Jeff20B's own final setup. The guy that ran the tests said he'd do the definitive dyno tests if enough people were interested and would send him money to cover a couple of dyno days. If 50 people sent $10, that should do it unless he's gettin' ripped by the guys that own the dyno... ............ie. the jury is still out...

 

Setting my full advance to 20ºBTDC Leading and 10ºBTDC Trailing gave me better power than Yaw's recomended settings. I also don't need to worry about breaking Trailing plugs.

Right after I adjusted my timing, I noticed a big improvement. Geo never touched his timing. I think DLIDFIS would have gotten better results if he would have done that step. His AF mixture should have been adjusted too, but his dyno time was limited.

Even Rob Golden says that if your NA AF mixture is less than perfect, it makes a definite improvement. I'm not sure how well it improves SC and turbo though.

So it's your choice as to whether or not you want a big red aluminum box under your hood, or whatever. Or, I'm just a guy who found a way to get the dual Leading sparks similar to a 2nd gen car in your 1st gen and spent pennies on the dollar to accomplish it (most rotorheads already have the spare parts here and there). Not to mention the fact that the parts have been around for 20 years and, to the best of my knowledge, has never been brought to the general (rotary) public before. It makes me think I may have uncovered some secret that only a few shops knew about. Or maybe I'm the very first person to have done this (outside of Mazda maybe). Now you all know, thanks to the internet.

 

DEFINITELY 20L/10T is much better timing than Yaw's recommendations! (Thanks CJ for first telling us/me about it!) That's curious about the "poor A/F mixture"... you'd think that any gains from the MSD would be realized no matter how perfect the ratio is, except maybe extremely rich or extremely lean which are both really hard to ignite. (Maybe his definition of "less than perfect" is the same as my "God-awful" )

I also found that the MSD doesn't seem to like rotary plugs. I've never tried 2nd-gen plugs, but the old BR8ET's would wear out at a terrific rate, as in you're replacing plugs more often than changing your oil! You almost NEED to do a sidefire gap conversion. Again, I tried the NGK race plugs and they SUCKED. Through experimentation I found that cut-down Autolite 3923's, gapped to .040, work extremely well with the MSD/DF. I do have some fouling problems when coasting for a 1/2mile from 90 to 45mph in 3rd gear after a dragstrip pass... big whoop. Cold starts are unreal, the car just catches and runs, no sags or almost-starts or stalls.

Plus, nobody told me about DLiDFIS (or even invented it ) until long after I already spent $250 and installed my MSD setup. And with DLIDFIS, you still have to buy a rev-limiter separately (about $50-90) if you want that.

 

Jeff20B---> I assume that your timing specs are set at 4000 RPM like Yaw recommended. Nicht war?

 

Funny how you keep saying that since at least three of us over at Mazspeed did this before you did. And just for the record, I noticed absolutely no difference after changing back to the stock setup from DLIDFIS.