Charcoal canister removal
04-17-03, 09:25 PM
#1
50+mpg, woo!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Charcoal canister removal
Pulling the charcoal canister off, what do I do with the lines to minimize fuel odor? can they be capped or must they be allowed to vent to atmosphere?
04-17-03, 10:15 PM
#3
The tank MUST be kept in a purged condition to avoid the tank blowing up when the sending unit inside the tank arcs (which they all do). If you remove the carbon canister, be sure you know how to provide for a proper tank purge line.
04-17-03, 11:41 PM
#6
The infamous number guy!
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Terre Haute, IN.
Posts: 1,953
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does the cannister make any difference in an se? i want to take mine out... i tried painting it for one and it looks bad, and for two i'm taking out anything unnessary from under my hood.
Trending Topics
04-18-03, 03:03 AM
#8
---------------------
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kamloops BC Canada
Posts: 2,029
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If it's a 12A engine, buy a '79 air canister hat, it has the charcoal built into the top of it with a little hose coming out of it for the vent lines.
04-18-03, 11:54 AM
#10
Originally posted by Keaponlaffen
If it's a 12A engine, buy a '79 air canister hat, it has the charcoal built into the top of it with a little hose coming out of it for the vent lines.
If it's a 12A engine, buy a '79 air canister hat, it has the charcoal built into the top of it with a little hose coming out of it for the vent lines.
Then all you have to do is run a hose from the carbon canister in the lid to one of the nipples on the air/oil seperator tube. Install a reducer tee in the middle of it and connect the tank purge line to it. That will provide enough vacuum to keep the tank purged. Also a good idea to install some sort of a breather filter on the other nipple on the oil tube. I used a little blue anodized filter that I bought at a local auto parts store, but an old fuel filter will work too. That line is the ONLY vacuum line on my motor, other than the brake booster connection.
04-18-03, 04:54 PM
#12
Airflow is my life
Originally posted by Wankelguy
The tank MUST be kept in a purged condition to avoid the tank blowing up when the sending unit inside the tank arcs (which they all do). If you remove the carbon canister, be sure you know how to provide for a proper tank purge line.
The tank MUST be kept in a purged condition to avoid the tank blowing up when the sending unit inside the tank arcs (which they all do). If you remove the carbon canister, be sure you know how to provide for a proper tank purge line.
WG, how sure are you on this? If you have a vacuum in the tank, then the pump will have to work super hard to pump fuel. On one of my cars the tanks sucks air when I open the cap to fill it, on the other it doesnt.
And what causes the vacuum to build?
04-18-03, 05:09 PM
#14
LOL, I'm REAL sure, Carl.
There isn't a whole bunch of vacuum, remember that it only needs to be kept in an air-starved condition. The tank gets it's little bit of vacuum via the charcoal canister. When the motor is running, the charcoal canister gets purged by a vacuum line that connects to the charcoal canister. When the motor is turned off, the charcoal absorbs the fumes from the tank. If you check out a vacuum diagram, you'll see how needlessly complicated it is.
Damn, you ARE ignorant, aren't you?
-WG
There isn't a whole bunch of vacuum, remember that it only needs to be kept in an air-starved condition. The tank gets it's little bit of vacuum via the charcoal canister. When the motor is running, the charcoal canister gets purged by a vacuum line that connects to the charcoal canister. When the motor is turned off, the charcoal absorbs the fumes from the tank. If you check out a vacuum diagram, you'll see how needlessly complicated it is.
Damn, you ARE ignorant, aren't you?
-WG
Last edited by Wankelguy; 04-18-03 at 05:12 PM.
There is NO vacuum line to the cannister. 
